Erecting garden panelling over existing panelling

Dayglo

Hi folks,

Just wondering if anyone had any insights on this.

I have garden panelling in my back garden just like this:
http://www.killeshal.com/mcart/pc/catalog/shiplap_panel.jpg

The panels on my back garden perimeter are shared with four other properties.
One of my borders is with a neighbour who is a bully..so we dont speak....the other side is bordering that of an absent landlord..who wouldnt pay for his side to be redone, the third property shares only one panel with me, and the fourth at the back doesn't care wheither the panels stand or fall. In short, any panels that have gone over the last few years have been replaced by yours truely.

I would like to put my own border around my back garden in such a way that I could do it myself without having to consult with four 'neighbours'.
Is there anything I can do, apart from building a concrete wall inside my own boundary, which wouldnt cost the earth, and that maybe could use the existing concrete supports as in the pic...or maybe plant hedging etc etc.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Sonnenblumen

Something like this ?

Dayglo

Yes my friend, and thank you for the reply.

Thats the kind of solution I'm looking for... it looks abs. super!!!
Any advice deeply appreciated. :-)

Sonnenblumen

Dayglo

I'll pm you and we can take it from there.

Sonnenblumen

Dayglo

the best methods for securing the cladding boards is to first secure (using M8 x 90mm Express nails/anchors) 75mm x 40mm (3"x1.5") battens to the concrete H-posts. The cladding boards should are fixed to the battens using 4 x 40mm CSK screws.

To avoid any stainings/rusting use non-rust screws. All timbers (cladding and batten boards) should be pressure treated.

Be careful when drilling H-posts tp avoid any cracking etc.

For a neater finish, trim (cross saw) all ends of cladding boards before butt jointing and joints should be staggered.;)

Goodne

Thanks Sonnenblumen, great advice. I have the same fences as the OP down 2 sides of my garden with a wall at the end. Ideally I wanted to build a wall but funds are low so yours is a great idea.

Sonnenblumen

Goodne wrote: »

Thanks Sonnenblumen, great advice. I have the same fences as the OP down 2 sides of my garden with a wall at the end. Ideally I wanted to build a wall but funds are low so yours is a great idea.

Goodne

shiplap cladding is a very cost effective method of changing/improving the existing panelled fencing to produce a softer looking but sleek and hardwearing finish. When painted with a quality paint (eg Cuprinol Shades range) it makes a wonderful contrasting backdrop, ideal for displaying plant forms and colours.

Here are a few more Befores & Afters:

Goodne

wow fantastic thanks so much. Shiplap cladding would be so much nicer & sleek to look at than those hideous, misshapen & unlevel panels that I have. Must price it now & get it sorted for the summer

manna452121

Hoping to do that job later in the summer,can anyone recommend a place to get the panels and posts or someone who might give a price for the job.

Sonnenblumen

manna452121 wrote: »

Hoping to do that job later in the summer,can anyone recommend a place to get the panels and posts or someone who might give a price for the job.

Manna

I'm sorry that I cannot help you with local sources/service providers, but if you want to DIY or source your own materials, you will require:

- Cladding: 175x22mm Weather Sheeting Pressure Treated (PT) which are usually available in 4.8m and 5.4m lengths.
- Battens for fixing to concrete posts: 75x44mm rough (PT) 2.4m lengths

Is there a TJ O'Mahony in Limerick? Any very good timber yard should sell above.

jamesd

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

To avoid any stainings/rusting use non-rust screws. All timbers (cladding and batten boards) should be pressure treated.

How soon should pressure treated panels be painted?

Sonnenblumen

jamesd wrote: »

How soon should pressure treated panels be painted?

A very good question and the answer like opinion will vary. It all depends on various factors, ranging from when timbers underwent PT process to prevailing weather conditions etc. Most however will agree, when the PT timbers are fully dry which usually takes 2 - 4 weeks after treatment. During wet weather this will obviously take longer.

Also most agree that only water based paints should be used on PT timbers.

If you know your timber source you can usually assess when timbers were treated and plan from there. Clearly you do not apply paint to freshly treated boards which usually take the PT chemicals at least 2 weeks to dry out.

That said, I have never come across any problems with painting PT timbers prematurely.