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Is my new Taito F3 system knackered??

  • 15-04-2012 2:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,906 ✭✭✭


    Just got around to testing this today.
    So far I'm getting nothing on screen and no sounds playing.
    Now the seller never said on the auction but it has been modded to play games from all regions(if that matters).

    When I connect up the JAMMA connection to the board and power up nothing happens as I said but I've noticed that one of the red LEDs on my Egret 3 power supply is blinking quite fast when this board is attached and powered up.
    All my other PCB's work fine by the way.

    Any ideas???

    I've posted on AO as well to see if anyone over there has any ideas.

    dsc1036ap.jpg
    dsc1048x.jpg

    .
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    Did you test the voltages on the board?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,906 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Did you test the voltages on the board?

    Not had a chance to yet, nor am I an expert with a multimeter(although I have a decent one I think).

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    My F3 board is modified to multi region too. Is the mod on the pin block clean? If it's not done properly you'll have a knackered board.

    I don't think F3 boards need a lot of juice. G-Net does, but it's a microscopic amount as opposed to a standard JAMMA board.

    One other thing I can think of you should check, is the game a bootleg? Open the cart and check on the underside of the red casing. Then look at this and compare:

    http://hardmvs.com/F3/F3modify.htm

    If you have no silver tag, it's a bootleg. I think. There's a bootleg guide somewhere, I can't find the link though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,906 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Pyongyang wrote: »
    My F3 board is modified to multi region too. Is the mod on the pin block clean? If it's not done properly you'll have a knackered board.

    I don't think F3 boards need a lot of juice. G-Net does, but it's a microscopic amount as opposed to a standard JAMMA board.

    One other thing I can think of you should check, is the game a bootleg? Open the cart and check on the underside of the red casing. Then look at this and compare:

    http://hardmvs.com/F3/F3modify.htm

    If you have no silver tag, it's a bootleg. I think. There's a bootleg guide somewhere, I can't find the link though.

    The mod seems clean. I've not checked the game yet but I get the same red led flickering on my psu when powering up the board without a game.

    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,328 ✭✭✭Pyongyang


    Could be a voltage thing I think. Or possibly a broken trace? How clean is the board itself?

    Shame I'm dying after a night out with Barry McGuigan last night (true story!) in Monaghan else I'd come to your gaf with my Gekirindan cart and we could test it out.

    I suppose I could be persuaded to help... if ye let me have a go on Darius Alpha. :D

    Here's more useful reading:

    http://therealundamned.blogspot.com/2009/08/taito-f3-pcb-101.html


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    I'm not familiar with arcade circuitry but by the looks of it set your multimeter to Volts DC; (this is a guess but a educated one :P)
    board.png
    Place your black pointer on the little metal circle on the board "1"
    Then record the voltages received when you place the red pin on points 2, 3 and 4
    Post results here

    Edit: Power machine while testing of course


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