Pot Burnt Laminate Kitchen Work top Easily replaced or Nightmare job?

ronan45

So despite me getting racks for the side top from Ikea to stop people burning the laminate style work top with hot pots. The tennant needed to put a red hot burnt pot on the only part of the side top with no protection. As ya do. Now to me replacing this looks like a pain of a job. at each end of the L shaped worktop there are press units. As well as the standard built in oven gap for electric oven and sink hole. Not to mention the sidetop is built right up to the splasback tiles. What are you looking at to replace this cost wise? Also is it the sort of job that can backfire with cracked tiles and other problems? I wouldnt be attempting the repair but getting a carpenter to. Just wondering how much it may cost and is it worth doing and potential extra costs such as tiling etc.

galwaydude18

You will certainly end up with a few chipped tiles when removing the existing counter top. Other than that it's a simple job to do.

recipio

Have you considered trying to sand it out. ? A random orbital sander with an 80 grit disk might just get rid of it if it's not too deep.

recipio

:rolleyes: oops............just saw its a laminate top. No hope of sanding, sorry.

zebrano.96

if that was my worktop in a rented house i would try every possible idea before removing, inlaying same or similar material inlaying steel rods as well to hide joints have u got a spare peice of worktop the size of the pan its got to be worth a try

IrlMonk

ronan45 wrote: »

So despite me getting racks for the side top from Ikea to stop people burning the laminate style work top with hot pots. The tennant needed to put a red hot burnt pot on the only part of the side top with no protection. As ya do. Now to me replacing this looks like a pain of a job. at each end of the L shaped worktop there are press units. As well as the standard built in oven gap for electric oven and sink hole. Not to mention the sidetop is built right up to the splasback tiles. What are you looking at to replace this cost wise? Also is it the sort of job that can backfire with cracked tiles and other problems? I wouldnt be attempting the repair but getting a carpenter to. Just wondering how much it may cost and is it worth doing and potential extra costs such as tiling etc.

Hi ronan,
I would suggest scribing between the worktop and tiles with a Stanley blade. Take off the kicker, drop all the legs on the units so the worktop is away from the tiles. Then replace.
As for costs! Maybe €200 labour. Need to be looked at first to see what's involved.

galwaydude18

Have you ever tried to reset all the legs on the units again after doing that? You'll never get to lift all the units up due to the shear weight of them all screwed together.

If you unscrew each unit (extra labour and time) and readjust all the legs after being let down your looking at re levelling all the units again and they would need to be levelled before fitting the new worktop.

IrlMonk

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Have you ever tried to reset all the legs on the units again after doing that? You'll never get to lift all the units up due to the shear weight of them all screwed together.

If you unscrew each unit (extra labour and time) and readjust all the legs after being let down your looking at re levelling all the units again and they would need to be levelled before fitting the new worktop.

Yea that's what i meant ;-)
Certainly not all units fixed as one

JoeB-

A plumber is needed to disconnect the sink and taps, and also to disconnect any gas hobs. Two people are needed to lift and move worktops.

In my experience this is a difficult job and not really worth attempting unless the existing worktop is destroyed.


If your base cabinets are attached to the walls using inaccessable brackets then I don't think you'll be able to lower the existing cabinets until the worktop has been taken off.

It's a L Shaped worktop. So are the joins done using 'masons miters'.. or done the usual way using butt joints and metal joining strips? We've heard of people charging 500+ euros just to do proper masons miters.

policarp

That happened to a friend of mine a few years ago.
His solution was to route out the affected area to the size of a few tiles square,
set the tiles flush with the worktop and grout with silicone, using masking tape on all the grout joints for a neat finish.

Reader1937

Aye, posh solution would be to buy a thick square chopping board. Cut out its shape around the burnt bit and inset the chopping board. Seal all around. Do not try to leave it flush with the counter - proud by a few mill is fine - just as long as its level. It can look well, doesn't cost the earth and is an easy localised job. And the fecker cant do it again.