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Chainsaw Mill

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  • 01-04-2012 6:39am
    #1
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I have eventually – 5 years later – had my chainsaw mill made by a friend.

    It is made from stainless steel – and is very light compared to the old steel one I had (pic of green steel mill), which had to be returned to it’s owner.
    The new mill can fit 20” timber and the bar is a 3 foot bar on a stihl 85cc.

    In one of the pics – I have attached a long board to get the first cut done and after that cut, the top of the mill moves along the cut timber.
    This lump of yew – about 20 inches wide came from the Phoenix park 5 years ago and is very old indeed.
    I find cutting at angles to the end grain is best instead of straight on.

    I’m sure there are + & -‘s to doing this but it was a great project and at last I have my mill.
    Using a mill like this is probably very hard on the chainsaw & chain but I will only be using it every now and then and mainly on freshly fallen timber.
    For larger work, a professional mill or mobile mill would be preferred.

    I bought the 3 foot bar & 3 chains off ebay Canada for 60 punt years ago and got them delivered to an aunt over there.
    We went over on hols a few months later and the miss’ wasn’t too happy to see what I was bringing home on the plane :D

    Link below to a few pictures and a video – with muffled sound from a phone.

    Link

    Thanks,

    K
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    "We went over on hols a few months later and the miss’ wasn’t too happy to see what I was bringing home on the plane "
    :D:D:D:D:rolleyes::rolleyes:

    I am sure that went over really well.;);)

    Nice job on the mill Karl.
    BTW do you have a closeup where the mill rests on the bar?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    Hi,

    not to hand but will take a pic.

    The mill is held onto the bar by two L pieces with a nut & bolt to secure a grip onto the middle of the bar. To keep a good distance between them for the chain, there is a small metal square welded to the underside of each L piece.
    and a small section of leather onto them, as metal to metal is not a great fix.

    I will take a pic monday and add to the gallery.

    K


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    Thanks Karl.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    Hi,

    Have just added 3 new pics to show how the bar is clamped.
    It's not the same bar that I use - but you get the drift.

    Thats 2 small pieces of leather stuck to the two blocks of steel, to allow for better clamping of the bar, as steel on steel does not work too well.

    Link

    K


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    karltimber wrote: »
    Hi,

    Have just added 3 new pics to show how the bar is clamped.
    It's not the same bar that I use - but you get the drift.

    Thats 2 small pieces of leather stuck to the two blocks of steel, to allow for better clamping of the bar, as steel on steel does not work too well.

    Link

    K

    That's some job to chop up a tree into planks. Now you need to build a kiln. :-)


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    I have a small press with two light bulbs and two (old microwave) fans :D

    It does the job.

    K


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    karltimber wrote: »
    I have a small press with two light bulbs and two (old microwave) fans :D

    It does the job.

    K

    What that like on the aul electricity bill?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    not much I presume - don't use it that much to be honest.

    After I rought turn a blank I just let it dry out in it's own shavings and then move it into the house and hide it for a while. Usually gets the moisture content down.

    all on the qt :D

    K


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    karltimber wrote: »
    not much I presume - don't use it that much to be honest.

    After I rought turn a blank I just let it dry out in it's own shavings and then move it into the house and hide it for a while. Usually gets the moisture content down.

    all on the qt :D

    K

    Lol


  • Registered Users Posts: 471 ✭✭aerosol


    Great job with the mill.I've been looking at the Alaskan ones for a while.
    What type of chain are you using?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    Awesome.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 1,919 Mod ✭✭✭✭karltimber


    aerosol wrote: »
    Great job with the mill.I've been looking at the Alaskan ones for a while.
    What type of chain are you using?

    Hi,
    & thanks

    It is just a standard chain. by that I mean it's not a ripping chain.
    I sharpen it to the 60deg that is etched on the tooth top.

    It's prob not the ideal angle for the job, but I don't use it often enough to change the angle of the cut to a ripping chain.
    And I hand sharpen it with a gauge & file.

    It does the job.
    The chain probably struggled a bit on the yew - 5 years drying - but would have no problem with freshly cut timber.

    K


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