Change the look of teak doors?

eamon11

Hi,

the kitchen units, presses in sitting room and built in bedroom wardrobes are old style teak. We are changing the look of the house to a brighter atmosphere and have already put in all new internal doors, doorframes and skirting, in pine. I dont want to rip out the former mentioned items as they are quite solid and practical. Years ago, I saw somewhere a kitchen in teak, but had changed its look by painting on some kind of very light white paint. This paint was so light that the wood grain was still visible and I never thought the units were teak until I opened the door and saw the inside of it which was unpainted.
I would like to leave the grain visible too, whatever I do.

Any ideas,

tks

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eamon11 wrote: »

Hi,

the kitchen units, presses in sitting room and built in bedroom wardrobes are old style teak. We are changing the look of the house to a brighter atmosphere and have already put in all new internal doors, doorframes and skirting, in pine. I dont want to rip out the former mentioned items as they are quite solid and practical. Years ago, I saw somewhere a kitchen in teak, but had changed its look by painting on some kind of very light white paint. This paint was so light that the wood grain was still visible and I never thought the units were teak until I opened the door and saw the inside of it which was unpainted.
I would like to leave the grain visible too, whatever I do.

Any ideas,

tks

I think what you're after is liming wax.

eamon11

tks spiessig,

what exactly is this and is it hard to apply? Expensive? an where can it be got.

Tks again

Ambersky

Colourtrend do a range for both indoors and outdoor wooden furniture in both solid and transparent woodstains.
Maybe they would be of interest?
I have used their product on walls in my home and really like the colours, finish and feel of the paint.
Am going to have a go at painting cabinets myself in the summer and will probably use their paint for that too.

http://www.colortrend.ie/your-home/our-paints/woodcare/#solid

The website also gives hints and tips like this that I really find useful.

Bare wood staining

Question: As a contractor, I do a lot of interior bare wood staining and painting from doors and trim to even fine furniture. Whenever I use a water based product like a primer or stain, I see fibres sticking up from the wood. These sometimes ruin the finished appearance, making it very rough. It is particularly bad with some cabinet woods like walnut or mahogany (whether in an old chair or in new high-priced trim). What causes this and what can be done about it?

Answer: This is called "grain raising." The water in the coating swells the fibres and lifts them. The best thing to do is to "pre-empt" this by wetting the surface with a wet rag before applying the first primer or stain or clear coating. The water will raise the grain. Then come back in 30 minutes and sand off the raised "whiskers" using fine sandpaper. Be sure to sand only in the direction of the grain of the wood, never diagonally or across it at right angles. Then dust off the surface and proceed with the primer or stain, etc. Now, because of the procedure, very little grain will be raised by the application of the coating.

cnocbui

I think the effect you want is limed oak. The traditional method involves a strong alkali to bleach the wood. The liming wax already mentioned is another method

We used a different cheat on all the pine door frames and skirting boards in our house. I got a clear floor varnish and mixed titanium dioxide pigment powder into a 500ml decanted amount until it was like milk. Painted this onto the pine thinly in the direction of the grain purposefully trying for a streaky finish. Then when it was dry, applied the clear un-tinted varnish as a top coat.

How much grain you can see through the first coat can be varied by how much pigment you use and how heavily it is applied.

I would have posted a pic, but boards seems to want payment for viewing, so I deleted the link.

Happyman42

Liming wax looks awful over the darker redder woods imo, it's more suited to whiter woods like oaks and pines.
Aluminium wood primer first and paint with a nice light shade?