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Downstairs Double rads half cold when heating on

  • 28-03-2012 8:04pm
    #1
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭


    What is the cheapest way to deal with this.

    I have been offered 2 solutions so far from a plumber. Removal of rads and power flush or adding a cleaning additive to the system and then flushing the whole system.

    Also I have noticed our inside oil boiler, (rear kitchen wall in cupboard) has started to have a light kerosene smell in the house while on.

    I ran out of oil 3 weeks ago and had to bleed system, but area was cleaned. no leaks no kero stains.

    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    the culture of deference wrote: »
    What is the cheapest way to deal with this.

    I have been offered 2 solutions so far from a plumber. Removal of rads and power flush or adding a cleaning additive to the system and then flushing the whole system.

    What part of the radiator is not heating, top or bottom? Bottom will be sludge/circulation problem whilst top is generally air.

    If the system is sludged, then a powerflush will be required. I find the best method is adding Fernox DS-40 for a week or so before the flush. Run heating as normal and then flush each radiator individually with a powerflushing machine. You will need to use the supplied neutraliser supplied before completion and always use a decent quality inhibitor such as Fernox F1 for future protection.
    Depending on the amount of sludge found in the system, and if a large amount was found, I would investigate as to why? Is it a badly plumbed system, is there air ingress, re-oxygenation, automatic filling valve installed that is hiding a leak/weap, etc.?
    the culture of deference wrote: »
    Also I have noticed our inside oil boiler, (rear kitchen wall in cupboard) has started to have a light kerosene smell in the house while on.

    I ran out of oil 3 weeks ago and had to bleed system, but area was cleaned. no leaks no kero stains.

    Thanks

    If you are smelling kersosene after 3 weeks, then you defintely have a leak of kerosene somewhere. Check for leaks with the burner on so that joints are under pressure. Check under the burner as it may flow back down the pump, etc. For G series burners, check the hydraulic jack to the right of the burner that lifts the air flap. This is lifted by pressurized kerosene and the seal within the jack is a common culprit.


  • #3
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    What part of the radiator is not heating, top or bottom? Bottom will be sludge/circulation problem whilst top is generally air.
    It is the bottom. The rads are are single no doubles.
    shane0007 wrote: »
    If the system is sludged, then a powerflush will be required. I find the best method is adding Fernox DS-40 for a week or so before the flush. Run heating as normal and then flush each radiator individually with a powerflushing machine. You will need to use the supplied neutraliser supplied before completion and always use a decent quality inhibitor such as Fernox F1 for future protection.

    Any idea on a price to powerfush them. It is a messy jobfor me to do. I have heard of plumbers that use a special machine that can do it easily

    shane0007 wrote: »
    Depending on the amount of sludge found in the system, and if a large amount was found, I would investigate as to why? Is it a badly plumbed system, is there air ingress, re-oxygenation, automatic filling valve installed that is hiding a leak/weap, etc.?

    House was built in 2000 and the quality of build wouldn't be the best.

    shane0007 wrote: »
    If you are smelling kersosene after 3 weeks, then you defintely have a leak of kerosene somewhere. Check for leaks with the burner on so that joints are under pressure. Check under the burner as it may flow back down the pump, etc. For G series burners, check the hydraulic jack to the right of the burner that lifts the air flap. This is lifted by pressurized kerosene and the seal within the jack is a common culprit.

    Thanks for that.

    Why did the put the burner in the house?


  • #4
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    You won't be able to carry out a powerflush without a powerflushing machine.
    Cost is usually approx €450 including vat and DS40 and F1.
    With regard to location of boiler, I normally prefer them to be in purpose built boiler room but for installers it is easier and cheaper to install internally in house. It is easier and cheaper to connect to pipework, etc. I would always recommend installing at minimum a carbon monoxide alarm in the same room as the boiler and any room that its flue passes through if applicable. I would also recommend an annual service carried out by a competent person to do so and not by somebody who rattles a spanner against the side of it. Make sure you get a print out for the flue gas analysis and a written report (CD11 Form) on the overall condition of the appliance. This will highlight anything that you may need to pay particular attention to in the future.


  • #5
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    You won't be able to carry out a powerflush without a powerflushing machine.
    Cost is usually approx €450 including vat and DS40 and F1.
    With regard to location of boiler, I normally prefer them to be in purpose built boiler room but for installers it is easier and cheaper to install internally in house. It is easier and cheaper to connect to pipework, etc. I would always recommend installing at minimum a carbon monoxide alarm in the same room as the boiler and any room that its flue passes through if applicable. I would also recommend an annual service carried out by a competent person to do so and not by somebody who rattles a spanner against the side of it. Make sure you get a print out for the flue gas analysis and a written report (CD11 Form) on the overall condition of the appliance. This will highlight anything that you may need to pay particular attention to in the future.

    the boiler is under the sealed kitchen counter to the left of the sink, the last guy said there was no need to cut the worktop, he said he could do the job without removing the cover


  • #6
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    What boiler is it? If it is a top servicing one such as a Warmflow, then the work top must be removed. If front servicing, then it will ok. I would very much doubt an internal boiler is top servicing. They are usually only boiler house and outdoor models.


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  • #7
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    What boiler is it? If it is a top servicing one such as a Warmflow, then the work top must be removed. If front servicing, then it will ok. I would very much doubt an internal boiler is top servicing. They are usually only boiler house and outdoor models.

    It is a Riello RDB1 50/70.


  • #8
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    the culture of deference wrote: »
    It is a Riello RDB1 50/70.

    Sorry, I meant the boiler make and model, that is the burner.


  • #9
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Sorry, I meant the boiler make and model, that is the burner.

    OK where is the boiler model number then


  • #10
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    There should be a data plate on the boiler. For example, Firebird SuperQ 50/90 or Grant Euroflame 50/90, etc.


  • #11
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    The burner and boiler are one single unit


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  • #12
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    The burner will be attached but removable from the boiler. There should still be a name of the boiler located on the boiler itself somewhere.

    Perhaps you could post a picture of it.


  • #13
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    The burner will be attached but removable from the boiler. There should still be a name of the boiler located on the boiler itself somewhere.

    Perhaps you could post a picture of it.

    Looks like its a GE boiler


  • #14
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    the culture of deference wrote: »
    Looks like its a GE boiler

    You're nearly there. That will be a Grant Engineering boiler. It is fairly old if it has the GE logo. It should be front servicing.


  • #15
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    You're nearly there. That will be a Grant Engineering boiler. It is fairly old if it has the GE logo. It should be front servicing.

    Its says 2001 on the docket, i cannot make anything else out.

    I need a service ASAP


  • #16
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    You could check OFTEC's website for a technician, but if you get stuck let me know, I am in or around that area most weeks.


  • #17
    the culture of deference
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭the culture of deference


    shane0007 wrote: »
    You could check OFTEC's website for a technician, but if you get stuck let me know, I am in or around that area most weeks.

    I did, I rang a good few guys, most were very impressed by your list, and were suprised about the questions I asked.

    I need it serviced v soon, awful smell coming from it, leak somewhere




    I am posting in this thread too, let me know when your around my area
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056561219&page=2


    i need 2 rads flushed soon as well (summer)


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