Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Need new groupset - help confirm bits

  • 27-03-2012 9:04am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,537 ✭✭✭✭


    So I need to get me a new grouspet, it's clicking like mad and my expert friend thinks the likely cause is the edge of the bottom brack where it meets the left side crank.

    We stripped and greased everything to no avail and the chain and front rings need replacing anyway.

    Just want to make sure I get the order correct. It's a 2011 Canyon Roadlite 6.0 with 105's

    From CRC:
    Shimano FC-5700 105 Double Chainset - Black 172.5mm 39.52t - No Cups
    Shimano BB-5700 105 Bottom Bracket Cups Pair - 70mm Italian Thread

    My 3 q's are:
    1. Would there be any reason to change crank length for comfort/ power? I'm 178 cm on a 56 frame. Never had that much of a prob with current but would slightly longer be better for power stroke?
    2. What does the 39.52t mean, there's an option for 39.53t also.
    3. I presume Italian thread is standard European and the Brit one is not relevant?

    The Canyon site does not provide that much specifics...

    Thanks:)


Comments

  • Administrators, Social & Fun Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 78,393 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Beasty


    On crank length I would suggest you stick with what you are used to unless you think there's an issue with your current set-up. Some people can notice a difference of 2.5mm. Personally I couldn't tell the difference between the 175mm cranks on my road bikes and the 165mm on my track bikes (but that may be because riding a fixie is different anyway)


    The 59.52t and 39.53t are the sizes of the front chainrings. 53 gives you a marginally higher gearing than a 52, and I think there's a suggestion that an odd number of teeth reduces wear. In both cases the small ring has 39 teeth


    On the BB threads, AFAIK it's mainly the Italian brands that have Italian threads - most other brands use the British thread


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,223 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Beasty wrote: »
    The 59.52t and 39.53t are the sizes of the front chainrings. 53 gives you a marginally higher gearing than a 52, and I think there's a suggestion that an off number of teeth reduces wear.

    I've always wondered by rear sprockets mostly have odd numbers of teeth.

    Why aren't we using 51-35 or 49-33 compact cranksets?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,278 ✭✭✭kenmc


    one way to identify the BSA vs Italian issue:
    BSA has one thread that unscrews and screws in the opposite direction to "normal" i.e. a left-handed thread, whereas the italian system both sides of the BB unscrew anticlockwise, as a "normal" bolt would.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 Lavcon


    Agree with other replies, but for what it's worth...

    Longer crank length will give greater leverage and is usually dictated by the size of the rider as people with longer limbs have effectively longer levers themselves and physically can accomodate the longer length for better bike fit. In reality few riders, myself included can notice much of a difference.

    A 53 tooth chain ring will give you slightly higher or harder gearing (play with Sheldons gear calculator if you want to know the details and like numbers)

    Your Canyon will have 68mm BSA "regular" threaded bottom bracket cups. Italian ones won't fit and if you attempt to install them you may damage your frame.

    Basically if you like how your bike rides now just replace like for like. If you want to increase the gearing slightly the 53t chainring and/or 175mm cranks will achieve that, not hugely but a bit.

    I would be VERY surprised if the crankarms needs replacing on such a young bike, the chainrings maybe if you ride high miles and hard. But these can be replaced separately which is usually much cheaper than a whole crankset. The bottom bracket cups by contrast are a consumable part with a life as short as 3000km in some cases and are most likely the cause of the clicking. They are designed to wear our first to prevent the more expensive parts of the system wearing.

    CRC are very fast and speedy but not the cheapest for Shimano, you can get the cups for half there price elsewhere.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,537 ✭✭✭✭Cookie_Monster


    Lavcon wrote: »
    I would be VERY surprised if the crankarms needs replacing on such a young bike, the chainrings maybe if you ride high miles and hard. But these can be replaced separately which is usually much cheaper than a whole crankset. The bottom bracket cups by contrast are a consumable part with a life as short as 3000km in some cases and are most likely the cause of the clicking. They are designed to wear our first to prevent the more expensive parts of the system wearing.

    We pulled it apart last night and the larger of the front rings and chain definitly need to be replaced. The creaking that's coming from it and cannot be cured is reckoned to be caused by slight wear at the edges of the splines on the bracket axle that the left hand crank attaches to (if you understand me poor use of terms). It's done 10k km and only makes the clicking noise when you put a bit of pressure on it, like pedaling while standing or putting any kind of power through it.
    It's also driving me insane, so it may be worth the expense rather than replacing some parts only to still have the noise :mad: No point in replacing the cups and cogs only to find out I need the rest anyway and have to wait for it is my thinking...

    And Canyon also confirmed 68mm size :)


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 726 ✭✭✭granda


    before you go spending a load of money on bottom brackets and chainsets or rings check out the pedals,bars and stem. i had the same problem and i also thought it was from the bottom bracket but it was actually the pedals plus sometimes i found a small squeek coming from the stem but mine is a quill stem that just needed a little tightning.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,537 ✭✭✭✭Cookie_Monster


    granda wrote: »
    before you go spending a load of money on bottom brackets and chainsets or rings check out the pedals,bars and stem. i had the same problem and i also thought it was from the bottom bracket but it was actually the pedals plus sometimes i found a small squeek coming from the stem but mine is a quill stem that just needed a little tightning.

    already done, spent a fair bit of time yesterday checking other componants for movement, looseness and noise. It's only coming from the cranks when bodyweight pressure is put on them. weight on = click, weight off = click back.

    No noise from any other parts and no noise when not pedaling. Noise can be replecated by putting pressure on the cranks too rather than pedals so not from them either.


Advertisement