Advice for MTB Tyres

doniem

Hi folks,

I got a Cube Acid 2012 through the cycle to work scheme last year. I initially bought it just for heading up to ballyhoura but I enjoyed it so much its now my primary method of transport to and from work. I was just curious if changing the standard Schwalbe Smart Sam tyres for slicks / road tyres would make much difference to the overall performance when going for long rides on the road?

Thanks for any advice.

el Bastardo

Sure, you'll probably roll faster on skinny MTB slicks and there'll be less 'rumble', but unless you're saving those tyres for Ballyhoura etc, I wouldn't bother spending money on slicks (That said, I did, but my MTB doesn't go off-road too often these days).

Keep_Her_Lit

doniem wrote: »

Hi folks,

I got a Cube Acid 2012 through the cycle to work scheme last year. I initially bought it just for heading up to ballyhoura but I enjoyed it so much its now my primary method of transport to and from work. I was just curious if changing the standard Schwalbe Smart Sam tyres for slicks / road tyres would make much difference to the overall performance when going for long rides on the road?

Thanks for any advice.

I commute on an MTB all the time and yes, slicks make a very significant difference. If you want to go the whole hog, try these:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=78333

You'll need to get inner tubes with them, as tubes for off road tyres won't fit. I used to use the 1" version of these tyres and they were very quick and grippy. But they were also very light and supple and were prone to pinch punctures, even at high pressures, so I stopped using them. The 1" has been replaced by this 1 1/8" version, which I'm guessing should resolve the pinch puncture issue. seve65 reports using them on 19-559 rims without any punctures.

For a somewhat less extreme introduction to MTB slicks, you could opt for the Conti Sport Contact:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18829

I'd advise going for the 1.3" variant, unless you'll be covering some rough ground or would prefer more comfort. The Sport Contact, though not quite as quick as the Grand Prix, is still a nice, quick tyre and has significantly greater puncture resistance. I've used several pairs without complaint.

For tarmac, without a doubt, get yourself a pair of slicks. Plenty of extra speed "for free".

theautophile

Slicks make a huge differnce if you're doing decent road miles, I was using Specialized FatBoys (26x1.25) for about 7 years for commuting, but have recently switched to Schwalbe Kojaks (26x2.0) as they have a larger volume of air which acts as natural suspension, the thinner slicks the guys mentioned earlier are quite jarring on irish roads. Your rolling diameter is also greatly reduced with the thinner slicks so your gearing is effectively lowered too.

Dunno if I've posted enough on here to allow a link out, but here's what they look like on my bike:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m289/redbarron912/GT7.jpg

They are almost as quick as the 26x1.0/1.25 options.....

Keep_Her_Lit

theautophile wrote: »

...but here's what they look like on my bike:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m289/redbarron912/GT7.jpg

theautophile, that is a very tasty looking street bike. You should bung that pic in the Post images of beauty thread.

Hmmzis

I second the opinion about the narrow slick's harshnes on local roads. I'm running 1.25" slicks and they do feel a tad too harsh. When the spare tubes run out I'll go for something a bit wider, 1.4" or 1.5".

And yes, the difference is very noticeable between a smaller slick and a 2.25" knoblie. Even if the knoblie is considered fast rolling, like the Smart Sams are.

abcdggs

I've heard of issues with running the very narrow slicks ie less than 1.2 or so, where the frames have have cracked at the bottom bracket, the cause in each case seems to be from using tyres that don't absorb enough of the shock. this is then transferred to the frame resulting in broken bb.

in the case i came across, it was quite a big guy riding slicks on a solid alu frame while couriering in dublin. Not by any means conclusive evidence but it has been a recurring issue for him (i think 3 broken frames)

i would second the Kojak, they look phenomenal and roll excelently. personally if i wanted to use narrower tyres than that i'd consider getting a different bike which is more suited to road riding.

el Bastardo

Hmmzis wrote: »

I second the opinion about the narrow slick's harshnes on local roads. I'm running 1.25" slicks and they do feel a tad too harsh. When the spare tubes run out I'll go for something a bit wider, 1.4" or 1.5".

And yes, the difference is very noticeable between a smaller slick and a 2.25" knoblie. Even if the knoblie is considered fast rolling, like the Smart Sams are.

I found it's a trade-off between 'performance' and comfort. I've noticed very little time difference on my regular routes (running 1.5" light, fast rolling knobblies @ 3 bar vs kojak 1.3"s @ 5.5 bar) - and yeah, it's not nearly as comfortable either. In my case, I just ended up just buying a road bike for longer distances.

rab!dmonkey

I run Schwalbe Table Tops on my commuting MTB. They roll pretty quick when you pump them up hard. They'll do ok on hardpack too, so you won't have to switch tyres for the likes of 3 Rock and Ballinastoe in the dry.

doniem

Thanks for all your replies guys, i appreciate the advice.

From what ye are saying so its a choice between the Continental Sport Contact and the Schwalbe Kojak.

I didn't take my size into account until abcdggs mentioned the guy with damaged frame but i am 6'5" and i weigh about 17 stone, should i be sticking with a wider tyre to or does it really matter?

Keep_Her_Lit

I've cracked or broken 4 different frames, all used on the road. 3 of those were at the bottom bracket.

Although I've no way of knowing for sure, I wouldn't have put any of the 3 BB failures down to shock induced fatigue, since the bikes were used on pretty good road surfaces throughout their lives.

If most of your mileage is urban/suburban, then the bike will be subjected to far more "standing starts" and sporadic acceleration than a bike used for steady training out in the sticks.

When you're out of the saddle, hauling out of the bars as hard as you can, the frame is subjected to significantly greater twisting forces than when you've reached your steady cruising speed and are seated. I believe those forces are responsible for the eventual failure of the frame in the region of the BB.

No disrespect but if a man of your size is going to ride any bike hard, you'd want to be checking your frame for cracks at least a couple of times a year. If you like giving it some beans, fitting tyres with better shock absorption properties may not add anything to the lifetime of the frame.

And even if you do spot a crack, that doesn't necessarily mean the end of your frame. The drive side chainstay on my commuter MTB cracked where it meets the BB after I'd been using the bike for about 6 years. I got it welded and have since got another 8 years out of it without a bother.

My advice:

• Get the fastest tyres you can, without sacrificing practicality. It's just more fun!!
• Check your frame fairly often.
• If you spot a crack, get it repaired immediately (assuming you're on a steel or aluminium frame).

BostonB

I found switching to slicks on my MTB for commuting made a big difference. 1.5 on mine,

doniem

Keep_Her_Lit wrote: »

I've cracked or broken 4 different frames, all used on the road. 3 of those were at the bottom bracket.

Although I've no way of knowing for sure, I wouldn't have put any of the 3 BB failures down to shock induced fatigue, since the bikes were used on pretty good road surfaces throughout their lives.

If most of your mileage is urban/suburban, then the bike will be subjected to far more "standing starts" and sporadic acceleration than a bike used for steady training out in the sticks.

When you're out of the saddle, hauling out of the bars as hard as you can, the frame is subjected to significantly greater twisting forces than when you've reached your steady cruising speed and are seated. I believe those forces are responsible for the eventual failure of the frame in the region of the BB.

No disrespect but if a man of your size is going to ride any bike hard, you'd want to be checking your frame for cracks at least a couple of times a year. If you like giving it some beans, fitting tyres with better shock absorption properties may not add anything to the lifetime of the frame.

And even if you do spot a crack, that doesn't necessarily mean the end of your frame. The drive side chainstay on my commuter MTB cracked where it meets the BB after I'd been using the bike for about 6 years. I got it welded and have since got another 8 years out of it without a bother.

My advice:

• Get the fastest tyres you can, without sacrificing practicality. It's just more fun!!
• Check your frame fairly often.
• If you spot a crack, get it repaired immediately (assuming you're on a steel or aluminium frame).

Ok i have taken the plunge and ordered the Continental Sport Contact 26 x 1.6 from Amazon. I will post back in a week or so once i have them and let you know how I get on with them.

I also gave the frame a once over and i could not find any cracks but i will check it once a month or so from now on.

Thanks very much for all yer input.

doniem

Right cancelled the order on amazon cause Halfords had them and couldnt wait the week to see how they roll. Quite a noticeable difference on the flat alright. I havent had a chance to try them on any decent hill yet. I can see what ye were saying about the comfort factor though. Potholes feel twice as harsh as they used to.

I had great fun pumping the tyres to 80 PSI with the hand pump, my next investment will definitely be a presta to schrader adapter

Thanks again for yer advice lads

BostonB

Get a track pump. Its like night and day pumping tyres. Get decent make too. I got a Top Peak Track Pump. Its thee best thing I ever bought for the bike.

doniem

BostonB wrote: »

Get a track pump. Its like night and day pumping tyres. Get decent make too. I got a Top Peak Track Pump. Its thee best thing I ever bought for the bike.

Thanks for the tip, how big are those pumps could you put it in a backpack or attach it to the frame of the bike?

el Bastardo

Typically, no. Track pumps are just that little bit too big for a normal-sized rucksack . They're meant for home use rather than to be carried with you on the bike. The benefit is it's faster and without the hard work you seem to have already experienced.

My recommendation would be a 'Top Peak Joe Blow'.

BostonB

The pumps you carry are intended only for pumping if you get stuck on the road, not for getting your bike ready in the morning.

I carry a CO2 inflator to speed things up on the road.
http://www.cyclingactive.com/bikesgear/7-of-the-best-co2-inflators