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1600 Audi a4

  • 14-03-2012 4:34pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭


    Have a b5 audi. engine seems to be running fine, although at idle and when im parked or stopped in traffic the temp gauge goes over 90, sometimes as far as 95 :eek:

    Was a tiny bit of yellow gunk at end of dipstick when I checked but den checked again half an hour later there wasn't. Also a bit of oil in water tank.

    Is it fcuked. cant make a mechanic this week due to work, even working paddys day. some slight blue-ish smoke from exhaust this morning too was putting it down to slight overfueling maybe, can smell fuel and maybe it was just fuel fumes.

    any tips/advice/help.


    Also if worst comes to worst, where could I pick up an Audi a4 engine, 1.6/1.8.

    Muchos Gracias people


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭king_of_inismac


    You have every symptom of a blown headgasket.

    Before you shell out big money for a new engine, get it pressure tested to ensure the head is actually gone.

    If it's overheating (and the head hasn't blown), then you really shouldn't be driving it until you've fixed the problem (fan, thermostat, etc).

    If the head IS gone, you could just get a new headgasket (ensuring the head has been skimmed).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭PeterB11


    What's an acceptable normal running temp for these cars. It goes just over halfway at times not much say between 90-95/97


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭PeterB11


    also, where can I check the engine code of this car?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭PeterB11


    PeterB11 wrote: »
    also, where can I check the engine code of this car?

    As above, and roughly how much is it gonna cost if its headgasket problems.

    Can get gasket kit and get it skimmed myself I'd say. F***'n Cars!! :mad:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,541 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    Anything up to 400 lids. Make sure you know what you're getting done though. It is usually advised to have the belt (if it has one) and the waterpump done as well, since the parts are cheap and after all the effort of stripping down the head you might as well get these things changed when they're right there ready to be replaced - if the belt or the waterpump failed in a week's time after getting the gasket changed you'd be talking the same amount of labour as what you'll be paying to get the gasket done so you might as well pay up the extra cost of these parts.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭PeterB11


    €400 notes?! For just labour?! Serious dosh for labour, I'm gonna source whatever parts I can myself I can pick up most of them online.

    Another note; Had to drive the car home from town earlier and it reached the halfway mark and settled in its usual place halfway on the temp gauge, half the needle outside of the 90 mark. it didnt go any further. What would be considered over heating? it never reached the 100 mark mostly in between the 90 and 100 mark if idling for a few minutes.

    Was a bit fumey but not overly, and it is cold out tonight. I'll check the water tomorrow but what else should I look for to see if its headgasket (or worse).

    Have the morning off work to check and go to a mechanic.
    Thanks all


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,796 ✭✭✭GERMAN ROCKS


    if you really need to drive it make sure whatever you do you dont let it over heat. if the gauge does get high turn on heaters to the max position and the hotest section.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,541 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    As mentioned by others, the car really should not be driven in case it is the HG that is gone (except for going to the garage obviously). That said, those engines are not exactly noted for HG failure, so it might be something else. Has the car been serviced on time all the time, or is rarely serviced and the crap is driven out of it?

    It shouldn't be 400 lids for labour, that would be ridiculous! I would have thought around 400 for parts and labour (maybe a little more), that's what I intended on saying! Labour should be €240/250 max - it surely can't take more than four hours' work to do a HG and waterpump/belt in an A4?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭PeterB11


    I have it about a month, have done about 1000kms on it and it seemed in great condition. I will be doing an oil change and new filter next week. Oil cooler might be F'd? Might change that too.

    I have rarely driven the car over 3000 revs due to it not being the most economical car (AZL)

    It didnt overheat as in go to the extreme right of the temp gauge just a little over the middle. It goes slightly to the right at idle. I drove it 7 miles is all, home. The garage is 1.5 miles from my house. What else could cause the fumes if its not HG failure?

    Really hope its not serious, can't afford to not have a car atm

    EDIT: There is 145,000 miles on it, TB was done at 140,000 (so the sticker on it says, and the previous owner)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭king_of_inismac


    PeterB11 wrote: »
    I have it about a month, have done about 1000kms on it and it seemed in great condition. I will be doing an oil change and new filter next week. Oil cooler might be F'd? Might change that too.

    I have rarely driven the car over 3000 revs due to it not being the most economical car (AZL)

    It didnt overheat as in go to the extreme right of the temp gauge just a little over the middle. It goes slightly to the right at idle. I drove it 7 miles is all, home. The garage is 1.5 miles from my house. What else could cause the fumes if its not HG failure?

    Really hope its not serious, can't afford to not have a car atm

    EDIT: There is 145,000 miles on it, TB was done at 140,000 (so the sticker on it says, and the previous owner)

    I know it's not what you want to hear but the car is overheating. You need to get it to a garage ASAP. It sounds to me like HG.

    If the thermostat is opening, then it's most likely the head. Get a pressure or sniff test done so you know where you stand


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