Custom made White Oak/Ash (Solid Internal) Doors

Sonnenblumen

Planning on replacing 20+ doors (incl frames + architrave) in batches. Any reccies for joinery co servicing Dublin area.

Not interested in any off the shelf/rack products.

galwayrush

Customised Ash doors will set you back approx 325 euro, Oak however will be at least 550 a door, (because of the price of the wood off the shelf), 2 " oak is quite expensive compared to 1",
The frames and architraves will be competitive enough,as thay are usually out of 1" stock. but i often advise my customers that they should look at 'off the shelf' regarding oak doors.

Sonnenblumen

galwayrush wrote: »

Customised Ash doors will set you back approx 325 euro, Oak however will be at least 550 a door, (because of the price of the wood off the shelf), 2 " oak is quite expensive compared to 1",
The frames and architraves will be competitive enough,as thay are usually out of 1" stock. but i often advise my customers that they should look at 'off the shelf' regarding oak doors.

I accept that custom build is more expensive but I am looking to replace current modified off the shelf door stock with a superior door, better fitted and better finish, ie custom sized. I'd rather spend an extra €100-150/door to achieve this.

It might be possible to utilise a base size but I would need re-assurance from carpenter/joiner concerning the final results before agreeing.

Would you see any significant performance differences between oak and ash?

slowburner

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

I accept that custom build is more expensive but I am looking to replace current modified off the shelf door stock with a superior door, better fitted and better finish, ie custom sized. I'd rather spend an extra €100-150/door to achieve this.

It might be possible to utilise a base size but I would need re-assurance from carpenter/joiner concerning the final results before agreeing.

Would you see any significant performance differences between oak and ash?

Oak is generally more resistant to bruising, denser and slightly heavier than Ash.
Oak develops a much more attractive patina, in my opinion.
Ash is often chosen for the lightness of its colour but it yellows over time, losing the 'blonde' characteristic for which it was originally chosen.
Oak usually matures to a significantly darker tone than Ash.

galwayrush

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

I accept that custom build is more expensive but I am looking to replace current modified off the shelf door stock with a superior door, better fitted and better finish, ie custom sized. I'd rather spend an extra €100-150/door to achieve this.

It might be possible to utilise a base size but I would need re-assurance from carpenter/joiner concerning the final results before agreeing.

Would you see any significant performance differences between oak and ash?

Good oak is definitely superior to ash, Slowburner described it well above. I find ash is getting popular because it's quite a bit cheaper atm.

the keen edge

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

I accept that custom build is more expensive but I am looking to replace current modified off the shelf door stock with a superior door, better fitted and better finish, ie custom sized. I'd rather spend an extra €100-150/door to achieve this.

It might be possible to utilise a base size but I would need re-assurance from carpenter/joiner concerning the final results before agreeing.

Would you see any significant performance differences between oak and ash?

I'm just wondering what you mean by custom sized?

Are you referring to door widths and heights under/over standard dimensions; if you're fitting new frames can you not size the frames as standard.

Or, by custom sized are you referring to the actual fitting of the doors in the frames?

zebrano.96

with a bit of clever design u might be able to get cost of door reduced if were to move away from standard panel doors .they would want to be unusal and of good qualitiy and design before making a decision to have doors made, should be something out there to suit u .

Sonnenblumen

the keen edge wrote: »

I'm just wondering what you mean by custom sized?

Are you referring to door widths and heights under/over standard dimensions; if you're fitting new frames can you not size the frames as standard.

Or, by custom sized are you referring to the actual fitting of the doors in the frames?

Some good Qs there. I was originally thinking of custom doors. The current door style is out of favour and also as the builder's chippie had trimmed or added slips to current doors we do not like that finish either. This probably leads us to replacing the frames, architrave and skirtings. So I suppose in that instance, adjusting frame widths/heights without too much disruption to walls and using standard door sizes is probably the way to go now?

Sonnenblumen

zebrano.96 wrote: »

with a bit of clever design u might be able to get cost of door reduced if were to move away from standard panel doors .they would want to be unusal and of good qualitiy and design before making a decision to have doors made, should be something out there to suit u .

Agree. We're looking for a more architectural sleek look and none of that retro panel style (which is why we're changing). Trying also to get away from standard proportions and instead going for a taller (continental style) door sizes.

the keen edge

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

Some good Qs there. I was originally thinking of custom doors. The current door style is out of favour and also as the builder's chippie had trimmed or added slips to current doors we do not like that finish either. This probably leads us to replacing the frames, architrave and skirtings. So I suppose in that instance, adjusting frame widths/heights without too much disruption to walls and using standard door sizes is probably the way to go now?

General speaking I'd imagine that your ope widths could be widen regardless of the type of wall construction present.
The ope heights may be constricted by the type of wall construction.
A carpenter should be able to advise you to this end on-site.

If you are going to shell out ~€500 per door, they (and associated architraves, ironmongery, floor level transitions) must be fitted to the highest standard; hence my opinion would be that fitting new 2'8"*6'8" door frames is a prerequisite.

Also OP are you familiar with the Shaker style? It is fairly minimalist and may meet your requirements.

Sonnenblumen

the keen edge wrote: »

General speaking I'd imagine that your ope widths could be widen regardless of the type of wall construction present.
The ope heights may be constricted by the type of wall construction.
A carpenter should be able to advise you to this end on-site.

If you are going to shell out ~€500 per door, they (and associated architraves, ironmongery, floor level transitions) must be fitted to the highest standard; hence my opinion would be that fitting new 2'8"*6'8" door frames is a prerequisite.

Also OP are you familiar with the Shaker style? It is fairly minimalist and may meet your requirements.

Fitting new door frames was probably the way I was willing to go. We have a Shaker Maple fitted kitchen, but was thinking of going for a slightly different look a more Teutonic look with the Ash/Oak finish? Absolutely agree, all fittings and ironmonngery would have to be top spec. None of that Shasta Basta crap.

You're bang on the money concerning the floor transitions, some but not all are seamless and the former will require careful consideration.

the keen edge

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

Absolutely agree, all fittings and ironmonngery would have to be top spec. None of that Shasta Basta crap.

Regarding what spec.

Personally I would go for an good quality engineered door with hardwood veneer. Something around ~€250+, I myself would fit basta mortise locks; Granted basta product quality is poorish, however the price of Union et al is not justified in a domestic building.
Instead spend the money on ball bearing door hinges and top quality door handles. (Actually the Basta hinges is pretty decent, not sure though if it is cheaper than its competitors though).

Regarding the doors.
My dad built a new house about ten years ago we put in a full teak 2nd fix fitout.
The doors were custom made in a local joinery and were of a very decent standard and were fitted following proper procedure. However some have since distorted, minimal twisting, tenons protruding mortises along stiles due to the different rates movement across/along the grain and downward sagging on the closing side. Not very noticeable but nonetheless issues that an engineered product wouldn't be susceptible to.

We fitted 2 levers Basta mortise locks to bedroom doors, which have performed as good over a decade to the 3 levers Union mortise locks fitted elsewhere. It's the handle of the door that takes the stress and not the lock, particularly where the door has been fitted correctly.

The success of the job will heavily rely on the skill and attention of the carpenter hanging the doors. Let him know before hand that you require exceptional work and will be meticulous in checking margins, fitting housings etc.
Make sure to immediately inspect the first door that is swinging and critique as appropriate.

Sonnenblumen

the keen edge wrote: »

Regarding what spec.

Personally I would go for an good quality engineered door with hardwood veneer. Something around ~€250+, I myself would fit basta mortise locks; Granted basta product quality is poorish, however the price of Union et al is not justified in a domestic building.
Instead spend the money on ball bearing door hinges and top quality door handles. (Actually the Basta hinges is pretty decent, not sure though if it is cheaper than its competitors though).

Regarding the doors.
My dad built a new house about ten years ago we put in a full teak 2nd fix fitout.
The doors were custom made in a local joinery and were of a very decent standard and were fitted following proper procedure. However some have since distorted, minimal twisting, tenons protruding mortises along stiles due to the different rates movement across/along the grain and downward sagging on the closing side. Not very noticeable but nonetheless issues that an engineered product wouldn't be susceptible to.

We fitted 2 levers Basta mortise locks to bedroom doors, which have performed as good over a decade to the 3 levers Union mortise locks fitted elsewhere. It's the handle of the door that takes the stress and not the lock, particularly where the door has been fitted correctly.

The success of the job will heavily rely on the skill and attention of the carpenter hanging the doors. Let him know before hand that you require exceptional work and will be meticulous in checking margins, fitting housings etc.
Make sure to immediately inspect the first door that is swinging and critique as appropriate.

That is very helpful. The Keen Edge by name and certainly a very keen edge by nature. Well done.