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Threadless head set assembly

  • 09-03-2012 11:40am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,469 ✭✭✭


    Numpty question about threadless headsets....

    I'm used to older threaded headsets obviously.........in replacing a stem that is slightly "shallower" that the existing one, I've re-assembling with the existing spacers etc and am a tiny bit 'short' - the bolt is a tight as it will go and the fork is still a bit loose in the head tube.

    It looks like the top-cap tightens down on the spacers (and therefore I need to get an extra one) rather than onto the head tube sides..........am I correct?

    thanks in advance
    503px-Br_aheadset.png


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Yep, you're correct. If the new stem clamp isn't as long as the previous one, you will need an additional spacer to make up the extra slack. Spacers typically come in multiples of 5mm but you can get smaller ones of 2mm or 3mm to make up the difference. There shouldn't be a huge difference between the top of the spacers and the top of the steerer, 2 - 3mm is ideal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    If you don't have any appropriate spacers handy you could cut the steerer by the gap size + 3mm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 320 ✭✭munsterleinster


    Spacers easy to get in any bike shop.
    As mentioned, cutting tube may be convenient option. It doesnt really matter if you do a shoddy job cutting with a grinder as this won't be seen.

    The Star nut may have pulled up from trying to tighten so tap this back down a few mm.

    Only need to be hand tight to get a bit of compression on the bearings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,469 ✭✭✭TheBlaaMan


    Cheers all. WIll sort this afternoon


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