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Solid handpainted kitchens

  • 17-02-2012 3:39am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18


    Hi all,needing a little advice on changing my kitchen.currently have a tired PVC kitchen & I'm thinking of replacing everything except the carcasses with solid handpainted doors etc.although expensive,I'm in love with them.a friend of mine has told me dirt gets into the wood & sticks there & often the handpainting can chip.anybody have a handpainted kitchen or have any options on them?also would love to get a solid oak worktop but my friend thought I was crazy due to the upkeep....any thoughts?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 210 ✭✭MisseyB


    Virtually every surface finish is liable to chipping but at least with a handpainted finish you can touch it up.

    As for the dirt getting into the wood. I'm not sure what your friend means. Smooth surfaces are easier to clean than textured surface so it depends on how textured your final finish will be. It would also depend on how many horizontal sections your door design will have. If you limit these there will be less surfaces for dust to rest on.

    True timber worktops do require a bit of maintenance but only you can decide if you think it's work it. I had a Oroko worktop before that i had to reseal with oil once a year. The oil i used was given to me by the supplier but it very smelly and took a good while to dry. If your supplier can offer you a treatment that is easy enough to apply and doesn't take too long to cure it might be quite a theraputic thing to do once a year. It'd be like getting a new worktop!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 delly19


    MisseyB wrote: »
    Virtually every surface finish is liable to chipping but at least with a handpainted finish you can touch it up.

    As for the dirt getting into the wood. I'm not sure what your friend means. Smooth surfaces are easier to clean than textured surface so it depends on how textured your final finish will be. It would also depend on how many horizontal sections your door design will have. If you limit these there will be less surfaces for dust to rest on.

    True timber worktops do require a bit of maintenance but only you can decide if you think it's work it. I had a Oroko worktop before that i had to reseal with oil once a year. The oil i used was given to me by the supplier but it very smelly and took a good while to dry. If your supplier can offer you a treatment that is easy enough to apply and doesn't take too long to cure it might be quite a theraputic thing to do once a year. It'd be like getting a new worktop!

    I think my friend ment that little pieces of dirt get into the wood grain or grooves & it can start to look dirty & claims its hard to clean.also is it possible to put solid wooden doors on mdf carcasses?the kitchens only about 6 yrs old so their in good nick.can you also recommend a worktop surface that's not wood & not black in colour?i want a very clean lined classic white kitchen & I havnt a fortune to spend on worktops??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Have you thought about painting over your existing pvc doors and indeed the rest of the units, this would be a cheaper option. As far as I know you can only hang solid wood doors on a pvc kitchen if solid surrounds were installed around the inside frame.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 delly19


    Daisy M wrote: »
    Have you thought about painting over your existing pvc doors and indeed the rest of the units, this would be a cheaper option. As far as I know you can only hang solid wood doors on a pvc kitchen if solid surrounds were installed around the inside frame.


    Yeah thought about getting them resprayed & I wouldnt mind doing it if the door was a simple shaker style but there lines running down the middle of the door & I just really hate the design.didnt realise I'd have to put solid surround on the presses....sounds nearly just as expensive as replacing the carcasses.....any idea if I'd be saving much money by not replacing the carcasses....it's a big enough kitchen but I've no idea of how much of an impact the carcasses would have on the overall price?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    The carcasses are the least expensive of the whole job. Its the frames and inset doors that make the whole thing expensive. Frames could be made and fixed to the front of the existing carcasses and then measured for new doors made from poplar for handpainting. A smallbone slip could be fixed around the frame before the doors are fitted. Check out Dunnes Workshop's website for some ideas.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 671 ✭✭✭fm


    any door can be hung on your existing units with concealed hinges,just like all standard kitchens these days.You can buy a solid door and use your existing hinges to hang them.Solid doors are alot lighter than a mdf /pvc door.

    INFRAME kitchens are different,they comprise off a frame put on to the units and then the doors are hung off the frames using a butt hinge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 delly19


    woodturner wrote: »
    The carcasses are the least expensive of the whole job. Its the frames and inset doors that make the whole thing expensive. Frames could be made and fixed to the front of the existing carcasses and then measured for new doors made from poplar for handpainting. A smallbone slip could be fixed around the frame before the doors are fitted. Check out Dunnes Workshop's website for some ideas.

    Great thanks-I'll have a look at their site. Getting frames made for the carcasses sounds just as expensive as getting new ones made.i think either way I'm looking at a pretty expensive job!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18 delly19


    fm wrote: »
    any door can be hung on your existing units with concealed hinges,just like all standard kitchens these days.You can buy a solid door and use your existing hinges to hang them.Solid doors are alot lighter than a mdf /pvc door.

    INFRAME kitchens are different,they comprise off a frame put on to the units and then the doors are hung off the frames using a butt hinge.


    Yeah an inframe kitchen is my dream but I just don't think I could afford one.no doubt there much more expensive then getting an ordinary handpainted kitchen.also is there any problem replacing doors etc now & replacing the worktop at a later stage?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    delly19 wrote: »
    Great thanks-I'll have a look at their site. Getting frames made for the carcasses sounds just as expensive as getting new ones made.i think either way I'm looking at a pretty expensive job!!

    Its only 40mm x 22mm framing which is screwed together to make the frames. Heck you could even make them yourself if you had a good chop/mitre saw. I'd show you how to assemble one if your not too far away. Poplar framing would be quite cheap.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    i would doubt if a pvc coated kitchen would be an inframe kitchen .they would be on a blum hinge . woodies do a very cheap pine/deal cabinet door raw which you could paint prime it first and then a finish coat by getting these door,s you would be able to get all the trims in pine/deal as well all cheap timber.they also supply a timber effect worktop at 90euro per lenght so well worth a look


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