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Painting your own kitchen?

  • 15-02-2012 5:59am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7


    I have a basic "rental" chipboard kitchen in my new house. It has no detail, just flat beech effect doors with handles I've already updated.

    I was hoping to paint it, so I went and bought Ronseal Kitchen cupboard paint.

    I'm happy enough with the result on the test patches but not so much the colour and price. To do the full kitchen I'd say we're talking 150 in paint alone (new counters, tiles, etc, to come and I'm a full time student!)

    Does anyone know how you would use a bog standard vinyl/any paint to do a kitchen? Could I use a sealer on top and which would you recommend?

    I'd also like to add detail in the form of wide, thin lengths of wood (to be painted) around the edges, I have 8mmx64mm lengths that I think would be nice but I don't know whether I'll get a weak finish? How would I be guaranteed a clean, smooth, intergrated finish (sealers, primers, etc)?

    When I sanded the doors the grain effect disappears but as regard the lengths of wood, the grain there is natural.

    THIS would be the look I'd go for.

    Thanks!


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    A tin of Zinnsser primer/sealer on the kitchen units and then paint away with what ever emulsion you want.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 210 ✭✭MisseyB


    If you're having problems with the grain on the plant-on timber moulding you might use sections of MDF instead.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    We painted our mdf kitchen. We gave the doors and frames a quick sand used two coats of dulux wood undercoat which we got mixes and gave one coat of dulux satinwood in the same colour (manilla). I think we spent about 80 euro and had loads left over and ended up doing a some large cupboards in the utility room and still had some left over.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    its a pity you did,nt post a pic of the beech doors so we could have a better idea of what you have . but from what i can make out of your post you are trying to make a shaker style door with the 64x8mm strip planted on to your flat panel (slab) beech door if what i am saying is right lol

    this is what i would do :

    1) pin on the 64x8mm strip around the door to give it the shaker look like your pic .

    2) when that,s done, put iron on venereed edging all around the edge,s of door in which it will hide the butting of the 22mm door + 8mm strips .

    3)now on the inside of the shaker panel use painters mate to seal and fill the joint between the 2 timbers 22mm+8mm now your door is like a solid shaker door prime it and finish coat it giving a good sand between

    start with a 180 grit and before final coat use 320 grit

    sand the 8mm strip,s before you pin/glue on its easier this way

    get a few lenghts of 2x1 the for kitchen pelmet and cornice
    double up for cornice to give stepped effect

    and for w/top well you can get cheap lenghts for 90euro,s in woodies in various colours .


    now thats a new looking shaker style kitchen for 200/300 euro the most (depends on amount of w/top required)

    hope this give,s you something too think about and you understand what i mean lol


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭chiefwiggum


    you could also use a product called ESP as a sealer..i have painted many a kitchen unit with this as a sealer and never had a problem with it


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    forgot to say about the paint just get an mdf sealer/primer plus a 2pac finish and you will prob need too clean down the doors with something like sugar soap with a fine wire wool


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 726 ✭✭✭sue97


    Where would I buy Zinnsser primer/sealer please (northside of Dublin)


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