Wiring of replacement Hob

slave1

Hi all,

Am looking to replace a solid plate built in hob with an induction hob.
The hob is 7.2kw.
Below the hob is a built in oven, the hob and the oven have separate feeds to an oven isolator switch which I had freshly wired back to the mains about a decade ago.

As the wiring is already in place I would imagine I can disconnect existing hob and wire up replacement myself, however would appreciate any guidance on perhaps something I have not thought about.

This is the guy I'm looking at.

Cheers

meercat

should be straight forward enough
sometimes there are little (copper links)which have to be inserted across the connector block on the hob

when you say seperate feeds to an isolator,i assume you mean 1 isolator switch
if both your oven and hob are fully operational you may overload your 32a mcb
this generally will not happen very often however
in some installations,a separate supply is installed for the hob and the oven

slave1

meercat wrote: »

when you say seperate feeds to an isolator,i assume you mean 1 isolator switch

Correct, I have one isolator switch positioned next to the hob and oven and it controls both

meercat wrote: »

if both your oven and hob are fully operational you may overload your 32a mcb
this generally will not happen very often however

I assume this is all 4 rings on and oven too, don't think that's ever been the case. Is there a visual check I could do at the MCB to verify amp rating?

meercat wrote: »

in some installations,a separate supply is installed for the hob and the oven

With foresight this could have been done, however with subsequent construction this is simply now impossible

meercat

straightforward so
just the links to insert on connector blocks(if applicable)

sparcocars

As meercat said straightforward job.

1: Isolate supply at MCB in fuse board.
2: Test there is no supply at the switch.
3: Remove old hob and install new one ensuring correct wire to correct terminal and good tight connections.
4: Turn supply back on.

JOB DONE!!!

slave1

Just checked the existing hob and it has a 6kw rating

meercat

slave1 wrote: »

Just checked the existing hob and it has a 6kw rating

you probably should be ok
usually a" diversity factor "is taken into account given that it is unlikely that everything will be switched on full at the same time
as sparcocars said
make sure power is off and connections are tight

if you are unsure,then ask a competent electrician

slave1

Picked up the hob last night but too late to fit by the time I got home.
One small complication, the existing hob has the electrical feed directly into a chamber in the underside of the hob i.e. no lead coming from existing hob.
The new hob has a lead coming from it so it it just a case of using a simple connector (5 wires on the hob lead) with some electrical tape or because it's a hob is there any special connecting apparatus I should use?
Excuse the non-technical electrical jargon and thanks again for assistance to date.

meercat

My advice Is to leave the lead on it and get a 32amp junction box from your electrical wholesaler
The 5 wires may be marked already
I suspect 2 neutrals and 2 lives doubled up and an earth connection(pic would help)

slave1

You are correct, 2 neutrals and 2 lives doubled up and an earth connection is the cable coming from the new hob.
I'll pick up a 32amp junction box so.
Excuse the general ignorance but is this the lad I'm looking for..

M cebee

the 'maintenance free' junction box seems to be popular in the uk for joints in edit( in)accessible areas

i think the rules allow them here as well-but i'd have to check?

they would be handy an odd time for mf ceiling grids and the like

not an issue here anyway as behind the hob is accessible

slave1

In work so can't upload a picture at the minute but picked one up at lunchtime, it looks like this one.
Has BS 6220 250V~30A note on the back of it, can't open it because don't have screwdriver to hand.

meercat

slave1 wrote: »

In work so can't upload a picture at the minute but picked one up at lunchtime, it looks like this one.
Has BS 6220 250V~30A note on the back of it, can't open it because don't have screwdriver to hand.

that should be ideal

slave1

Thanks guys, the electrics proved much more straightforward than the fitting, the opening in the counter top was slightly too big and it's always a fecker taking just wee bits off such a deep piece of wood so took some time.
Then the oven was 'bumping' into the bottom of the hob so I had to take all out and drop the support for the oven, thankfully I had a small drawer under the oven so I had the room to drop this, unfortunately the drawer was only 3.5 inches high so it was a nightmare taking the 6 plastic 'block' supports out and even worse putting new ones in because I would only fit my hand and a stub screwdriver in and had to reach right to the back of the drawer support so was well stretched. Without the woodwork complications it probably would have taken 30-45 minutes, in the end took just under 4 hours!
Anyhow, job done, there's a fan on these hobs (induction) so the noise level increases but it's a considerable improvement when compared to a decade old 'slow to respond' plate hob.