Removing Pedal

busyliving

Spend the last hour trying to get my old pedals off, and no luck as of yet...

I've searched online, but I don't have one of those bike stands(which would make a lot of stuff easier) or one of those special pedal removing things...

I have a 15mm spanner, which I had been told before would be ok...

How the fcuk do I remove these stupid pedals

Thanks in advance

seamus

15mm spanner should do just fine. The left-hand (non-drive) pedal is reverse threaded, so you have to turn it clockwise to remove it.

If it's being stubborn, then use a hammer to tap the end of the spanner until it comes loose. Be careful not to hit the crank with the hammer.

Mycroft H

busyliving wrote: »

Spend the last hour trying to get my old pedals off, and no luck as of yet...

I've searched online, but I don't have one of those bike stands(which would make a lot of stuff easier) or one of those special pedal removing things...

I have a 15mm spanner, which I had been told before would be ok...

How the fcuk do I remove these stupid pedals

Thanks in advance

WD40 and leave it for a few hours to penetrate. Brute force will get them off eventually

Eamonnator

The thread on the right pedal has a 'normal' thread, however the left pedal has a reverse thread. So to loosen the left pedal, turn the spanner clockwise.

Mycroft H

And yes a swing of a hammer will often shock a seized nut into submission.

CheGuedara

Probably a simple thing but always remember to turn the spanner towards the back of the bike as you're looking at the pedal i.e turning from 12 to 9 when dealing with the right pedal and 12 to 3 when dealing with the left.

If they're still not coming off turning them that way you might just need to get a longer spanner or put a length of plastic pipe over the one you have to give yourself a little more leverage.

When reinstalling put a bit of grease on the new pedal threads and the next pedal extraction shouldn't be as difficult -(anti-seize grease works great in my experience)

Edit: +1 on the WD40 & hammer idea also but make it a rubber mallet to minimise the risk of doing damage if you miss a strike or it bounces

Lumen

CheGuedara wrote: »

Probably a simple thing but always remember to turn the spanner towards the back of the bike

Unless the bike is upside down or the spanner is pointing down :pac:

eoglyn

Had a similar experience myself - i wussed out and decided to leave it in the end, my road bike has spds and my tt bike has look keos, it would mainly suit me to have it the other way around.

I'm determined to give it another go after reading this thread.

busyliving

I assume the spray grease I use on my chain will work instead of the WD-40 yeah?

Mycroft H

busyliving wrote: »

I assume the spray grease I use on my chain will work instead of the WD-40 yeah?

Depends. WD40 would penetrate quicker alright as its less viscous then the oil. Overnight with the oil might work. WD40 is cheap an useful so everybody should have a tin lying around

busyliving

BX 19 wrote: »

Depends. WD40 would penetrate quicker alright as its less viscous then the oil. Overnight with the oil might work. WD40 is cheap an useful so everybody should have a tin lying around

Have two empty tin's lying around...not a drop left in either of them:(

petethedrummer

Do this... or as close to this as you can. Then stand on the spanner. Always point forward the pedal you are removing and you don't need to remember thread directions. Bike should be upright on the floor.

langdang

Length of pipe over spanner.
Watch out for chain rings when she goes (OUCH!) - put the chain on the big ring is a great tip I read here.

joxerjohn

I have found that the job is easier to manage if two people are involved. One to hold and apply resisting force on the opposite crank while the other person uses spanner to remove pedal. Turning the pedal nut the right way of course as outlined above. Also job best done with the bike upside.

feck sake lads

The law of the leaver;) oh tighten it before you try to loosen it .

GTDolanator

spanner and a hammer- job done dont be afraid to ''use'' the hammer part

funnights74

seamus wrote: »

15mm spanner should do just fine. The left-hand (non-drive) pedal is reverse threaded, so you have to turn it clockwise to remove it.

If it's being stubborn, then use a hammer to tap the end of the spanner until it comes loose. Be careful not to hit the crank with the hammer.

Thanks for that piece of advice, just took me 5 mins to change a few pedals that wouldn't budge for me. Never thought of tapping it with a hammer , worked a treat.

check_six

Old seatpost over the spanner for extra leverage does the trick for me. If you don't have a length of pipe or an old seatpost, you could possibly use the current seatpost, as long as it's not carbon, of course!

check_six

Too late with my advice!
Well done for persisting!

busyliving

I reckon my pedal's were put on my a body builder, not a budge in them