Firebird boiler wont fire up.

helpmepleas

Hi,
I have a Outdoor Heatpac firebird Boiler 120/150. I have put a new brass jet on it as this got clogged with dirt two years ago. Put it all back together and nothing happened. Hit the reset button on the back of the control box and the fan kicked in then there was a click followed by some smoke from the control box. :mad:

I have bled it and the pump is working perfect but there is no spark or no small spurt of Kerosene from the jet With the control box letting out some smoke and not firing up am i right in saying that the control box is the brain of the whole thing and wont send a signal to the pump to spurt out some oil and then ignite. I have read some forums and there has been a mention of the capacitor but am unsure of the function of the capacitor. Any help would be appreciated. I am just gald its a mild winter. Thanks for reading this and hope it makes some sence

Billy Bunting

Grant firebird ??

If the pump is running forget the capacitor, if you had smoke from the control box thats not good,,what burner are we discusing ??

helpmepleas

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Grant firebird ??

If the pump is running forget the capacitor, if you had smoke from the control box thats not good,,what burner are we discusing ??

Hi Billy,
Its a Outdoor Heatpac Firebird boiler 120/150 (Hope this means something)
Thanks for the response.

Billy Bunting

Difficult without seeing it, how experienced are you with the RDB2 burner ? It does sound like the control box has gone, did you remove the electrodes when removing the nozzle ?? how did you replace them ?

helpmepleas

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Difficult without seeing it, how experienced are you with the RDB2 burner ? It does sound like the control box has gone, did you remove the electrodes when removing the nozzle ?? how did you replace them ?

Hi Billy,
I would be handy enough with burners but not over experienced (More of a handy man around the house) But when there is a shortage of funds you are inclined to try and put your hands at anything in order to save a few pounds. I didn't go near the electrodes I was able to remove the nozzle without touching them. They are not sparking at all and there is no kerosene spurting out. I really think it is the Control box. Would I be right is saying this would be more or less the brain of the burner which tells it when to ignite the electrodes and also to let the kerosene out. There is power going to the electrodes when I hit the reset button by using a face tester :eek:

Billy Bunting

The control box is the brains, electronically controls a lighting sequence, the ingition transformer is built into the box also, quite honestly if it damaged its knackered, some of the lads here may think otherwise, you could open it up and remove the circuit board and look for burnt tracks that you maybe able to solder.
Not sure how a simple nozzle change could have caused it though.

Be careful what you do, the electrodes can pass 25000v across them.

aujopimur

Some plumbing suppliers have test boards for checking control boxes, ring around your local suppliers.

helpmepleas

Billy Bunting wrote: »

The control box is the brains, electronically controls a lighting sequence, the ingition transformer is built into the box also, quite honestly if it damaged its knackered, some of the lads here may think otherwise, you could open it up and remove the circuit board and look for burnt tracks that you maybe able to solder.
Not sure how a simple nozzle change could have caused it though.

Be careful what you do, the electrodes can pass 25000v across them.

Hi Billy,
The burner didnt fire up and I had this problem around three years ago and put a new nozzle on and presto the burner was up and running as the existing one was blocked with dirt.:D So I thought the same issue had arisen again and I had a spare nozzel. I am going to get a new control box in the morning from Heatvac in Santry. Do you know if these are costly to buy.

Thanks for the advise on the electrodes. :eek: I wont be turning on the power again until i have everything back in its place.

helpmepleas

aujopimur wrote: »

Some plumbing suppliers have test boards for checking control boxes, ring around your local suppliers.

Thanks aujopimur,
Thats not a bad idea. Save me from purchasing one and maybe nothing wrong with it.

Billy Bunting

If you hadn't smoke from the control box then it wouldn't be so bad, but smoke signals damage.

helpmepleas wrote: »

Do you know if these are costly to buy.

.

Depends where you get them........

http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/Product.asp?Prd=271826

helpmepleas

Thanks Billy,

Just taking the control box apart. There is no scorch marks or sign of damage but unfortunately there is a burning smell from it which is not good.:(

Thanks for all your help and the link I see the one I need so will follow up on it tomorrow.

helpmepleas

Billy Bunting wrote: »

If you hadn't smoke from the control box then it wouldn't be so bad, but smoke signals damage.



Depends where you get them........

http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/Product.asp?Prd=271826

Hi Billy,
Just to update you. I got the control box this morning and have just put it in and everything is back up and running .

Thanks for all your help.

jvivaro

hi all new to forum so not sure if im in the right place to ask for advice. i have a heatpack c 26 oil boiler. I drained the system to fit new rad and forgot to turn off the power to boiler as the hot water is on a timer it would have being calling for heat but the system was dry. now the boiler wont fire up when i press the overheat switch the motor runs but it stops when i let it go.i have tried holding it in for 30 seconds or so and pressing the red button at the same time but still no joy. anybody with any idea what might be the problem. thanks for your time. jvivaro

alan partridge aha

jvivaro wrote: »

hi all new to forum so not sure if im in the right place to ask for advice. i have a heatpack c 26 oil boiler. I drained the system to fit new rad and forgot to turn off the power to boiler as the hot water is on a timer it would have being calling for heat but the system was dry. now the boiler wont fire up when i press the overheat switch the motor runs but it stops when i let it go.i have tried holding it in for 30 seconds or so and pressing the red button at the same time but still no joy. anybody with any idea what might be the problem. thanks for your time. jvivaro

IF you have oil, check eye(not sure if it's the right word) rubber bung pull out and clean carefully with tissue.

Sooty photocell, take off the front cover, take off the red cover off the burner and next to the black box with the red button there is a black lead going into the photocell. Wiggle this black plastic thing out and with a piece of dry kitchen paper wipe the end of it, get into the recess and you will find the glass eye, pop it back in, job done hopefully.

Wearb

The above post doesn't help with the problem described by the op.

I would say that your high heat thermostat phial is damaged. There may be more damage in the combustion chamber, but you may have just gotten away with it.

I would advise having it looked at by a professional, to check for warping.

agusta

Wearb wrote: »

The above post doesn't help with the problem described by the op.

I would say that your high heat thermostat phial is damaged. There may be more damage in the combustion chamber, but you may have just gotten away with it.

I would advise having it looked at by a professional, to check for warping.

+1

jvivaro

Hi all
Thanks for reply. Will try new stat phial. Had a look inside chamber all looks ok.