Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

faulty rads that plummer has not fixed properly

  • 03-01-2012 3:28pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭


    I recently had a radiator prob - it was only heating at the top. Plummer came and re Balanced the rads. Sorted. Then, a dif rad failed to heat fully. Got Plummer back. He re balanced rads again. Sorted - i thought! NOW, the original rad does not work at ALL. I have not touched the rads myself. Any advice? incidentally I am thinking of replacing my boiler so not sure whether to get the rad "fixed" again or not. Could the prob be resolved with new boiler or is it a s eparate prob?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,649 ✭✭✭b318isp


    Personally, I'd try opening the balance valve on the radiator that is not heating by, say, one turn (360 degrees) ans see if this get the water flowing. This valve will be the one that you don't normally adjust to regulate temperature. Pull off the cap and turn with an adjustable spanner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭73trix


    I could try that but why did the plummer not do it right the first 2 times? And part of me is reluctant to touch it at all. What about changing the system? Hearing stuff about systems being flushed out as part of the work so am I as well just leaving it til thatd done and refusing to pay the Plummer, as in all fairness, 2 call outs and prob not fixed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,649 ✭✭✭b318isp


    That's a question for him. I wouldn't jump to changing systems, it is more likely to be a simple cause (and these should be eliminated first).

    To be honest, unless you have an unusual house or radiator system, balancing shouldn't be too hard. It may be time to find a better plumber.

    You will not cause a problem opening the valve yourself - and you can put it back to where it was anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    Has anyone looked at the water inside the system? It could be sludge preventing circulation and it is shifted around from one place to the other when messing with the rads. To be honest If i come across a poorly balanced system some rads are hotter than others or there is no heat in one or two never hot at the top and cold at the bottom. Your symptoms are a classic sludge problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭73trix


    So what would you suggest? I am considering replacing my whole boiler system now so is there any point in getting my plummer back to check for possible sludge or would that be resolved anyway with the new installation? Am delaying calling the plummer back until I get advice. Thanks.

    Ps b318isp, turning the valve myself the 360 deg didn't make any difference.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    73trix wrote: »
    So what would you suggest? I am considering replacing my whole boiler system now so is there any point in getting my plummer back to check for possible sludge or would that be resolved anyway with the new installation? Am delaying calling the plummer back until I get advice. Thanks.

    Ps b318isp, turning the valve myself the 360 deg didn't make any difference.
    If you are changing your boiler get the system chemically cleaned at the same time (should be done anyway when changing) this should sort the problem out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 kerryplumbing


    To test to see whether your heating requires chemically cleaning is relatively straight forward - A PH level and Total Dissolved Solid test should be carried out on the water in the system. Depending on the reading your plumber should be able to see whether that is your problem


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭73trix


    Ok, out of frustration I decided to experiment with the Balance valve again to see if it made any dif. Now, thing is I can't rem which way is open and closed! Is it clockwise or anti clockwise to open the valve? Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    Lefty loosie , righty tighty
    Same as opening a cap on a bottle


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭73trix


    Latest!
    after messing around with valve and leaving it fully open, got the rad working again but only the top ( which was the original problem). NOW (after close radiator vigilence for 2 nights in a row) it has just gone stone cold! central heating system working away, other rads fine bar problem no 2 - still working but could be better - hotter on the top.
    So why now has it completely packed in? does that alter the diagnosis from sludge to something else?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,649 ✭✭✭b318isp


    Out of interest, how old is the install and do you have thermostatic (regulating) valves on the rads?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,190 ✭✭✭73trix


    I don't know. The house is 1994 so would guess its the original installation but there are 2 types of rads, a couple more modern than others, including this one, if that makes any dif but no thermostats.


Advertisement