rifle stock finishing

poulo6.5

hi lads just a quick ask if anyone out there has a set of checkering tools.
i want to give my stock a bit of a clean up and thought it would be a good time to point up the checkering before i sand it down and spray it

thanks in advance


here is the stock as it stands







any helpful tips or pointers would be much appreciated

tfox

I wouldnt sand it down, give a good hard rub with a cloth and white spirits and it should remove any finish thats on it, tough spots may need a bit of wire wool.

Then build it up with coats of danish oil

poulo6.5

tfox wrote: »

I wouldnt sand it down, give a good hard rub with a cloth and white spirits and it should remove any finish thats on it, tough spots may need a bit of wire wool.

Then build it up with coats of danish oil

thanks tfox. does the danish oil give it any colour or stain. and would you then finish it with varnish or just leave it with the oil

i had a go at the checkering with a small screw driver. lots of old ground in dirt fell out. i had to stop my self from trying to do it all as i want to do a proper job while i am at it

moby30

Hi paolo. I tried to get my hands on a checkering tool but to no avail. I seen one in use with Pat O Brien in Bray and tried to buy it but there was no way he was gettin rid of it as he reacons it's one of the hardest tools to get your hands on. Most gunmakers use raw linseed oil on their stocks but it takes weeks to build up a deep shine. Oils won't colour the wood but will bring out natural colour and grain in it. I wouldn't use varnish on it myself as you end up with a very cheap looking finish. I have seen stocks laquer coated and it looks good. I done one before with friction polish and it turned out quite good too.

daithi55

id clean it as tfox describe and depending how well the timber comes up
id then pick a suitable stain for it
then id use oul on it

Croppy Boy

These are the checkering tools I saw Pat Sludds use http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26276/Product/CAMP-PERRY-CHECKERING-SET

blackstairsboy

moby30 wrote: »

Hi paolo. I tried to get my hands on a checkering tool but to no avail. I seen one in use with Pat O Brien in Bray and tried to buy it but there was no way he was gettin rid of it as he reacons it's one of the hardest tools to get your hands on. Most gunmakers use raw linseed oil on their stocks but it takes weeks to build up a deep shine. Oils won't colour the wood but will bring out natural colour and grain in it. I wouldn't use varnish on it myself as you end up with a very cheap looking finish. I have seen stocks laquer coated and it looks good. I done one before with friction polish and it turned out quite good too.

+ 1 on the lacquer, I done a shotgun stock a few years ago used nitromores to strip it back and built it up with coats of some kind of lacquer which I can't remember the name of.:o
Came up lovely looking will try and dig out a picture but I don't know if I have one as I don't have the gun any more.

tfox

poulo6.5 wrote: »

thanks tfox. does the danish oil give it any colour or stain. and would you then finish it with varnish or just leave it with the oil

i had a go at the checkering with a small screw driver. lots of old ground in dirt fell out. i had to stop my self from trying to do it all as i want to do a proper job while i am at it

The danish oil will give it a sheen finish, it takes a lot of coats but as you build it up you get it brings out the grain and gives a deep finish. I did my first stalking rifle and my cousins .410, both came up a treat

I wouldnt varnish or lacquer as it only flakes and chips !!

tomcat220t

Hi Paulo,i can put my hands on an old set of checkering tools when needed .
Will be getting my 40 year old .22lr rifle stock refinished in the coming weeks aswell .
If you havent picked up tools by then give me a pm and ill sort you out
Tomcat.

poulo6.5

thanks very much lads.

i will try the danish oil so, where can i get it, would it be in the local hardware store.

i am anxious to do the checkering first though as it will be the making of this restoration.

tomcat that would be great if you have a set. i wont need them for long. i could even meet up with you and do it there and then if necessary.

daithi55

looks like an air rifle stock poulo?

tomcat220t

poulo6.5 wrote: »

thanks very much lads.

i will try the danish oil so, where can i get it, would it be in the local hardware store.

i am anxious to do the checkering first though as it will be the making of this restoration.

tomcat that would be great if you have a set. i wont need them for long. i could even meet up with you and do it there and then if necessary.

Ill know what the story is on the set tomorrow .
Im sure i could get a lend of the set for a few days;)
Talk to ya then.
Tomcat.

tfox

any decent hardware should have danish oil in stock, Rustins is good stuff

poulo6.5

daithi55 wrote: »

looks like an air rifle stock poulo?

well i have never bin so insulted in my life:p:p:p

can an air rifle do this


its the current stock on my sako/trueflight .243

Mauser 308

poulo6.5 wrote: »

well i have never bin so insulted in my life:p:p:p

can an air rifle do this


its the current stock on my sako/trueflight .243

Hey Paulo, prefer the 243 to the 308 ?

Tackleberrywho

Fill the spare hole with Solder then sand.it down and it will look well, like a stud.

Linseed.oil is forsale on sportsden website, or in any hardware.


Linseed oil is a labour of love, but transforms a piece of wood and part waterproofs it.

I have a tub of beeswax & turpintine that is supposed to be great on old wood to make.it look good. You can have it if you want it.

poulo6.5

Mauser 308 wrote: »

Hey Paulo, prefer the 243 to the 308 ?

i love them both equally. i am trying to keep the .243 as i intended it for a foxer but it is just as capable as the .308 on deer.

i never would have sold my .308 for a .243 before so i am delighted to get to own one with out having to give up my .308.

poulo6.5

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

Fill the spare hole with Solder then sand.it down and it will look well, like a stud.

Linseed.oil is forsale on sportsden website, or in any hardware.


Linseed oil is a labour of love, but transforms a piece of wood and part waterproofs it.

I have a tub of beeswax & turpintine that is supposed to be great on old wood to make.it look good. You can have it if you want it.

thanks i will take you up on that

Mauser 308

poulo6.5 wrote: »

i love them both equally. i am trying to keep the .243 as i intended it for a foxer but it is just as capable as the .308 on deer.

i never would have sold my .308 for a .243 before so i am delighted to get to own one with out having to give up my .308.

I was thinking that, its just anytime I have seen a post with a deer in it latley you had the 243. The 308 must be feeling left out..:D

poulo6.5

Mauser 308 wrote: »

I was thinking that, its just anytime I have seen a post with a deer in it latley you had the 243. The 308 must be feeling left out..:D

i have had it out a couple of times its just that most of the time at the start of the season i was mad to try out the .243.
i think once i get used to it they will both find their place in my gun room

if i was going abroad i would take the .308 and the zeiss scope from the .243 i would have more options

FISMA

+1 for hand rubbing and no sprays or clearcoat.

My friend refinished a stock on his Browning A5. He lightly sanded the stock and covered the checkering with tape while sanding. Later when the sanding was done, he used the tools you're looking for.

Absolutely do not use paint remover - it will kill the grain.

I think he used linseed oil as previously mentioned. Hand rubbed. It came out simply beautiful, like my Sako. I'll ask him.

I wouldn't worry about sanding unless there are proof marks or the likes, such as on war guns.

I have a few myself to do... One of these days.

tomcat220t

poulo6.5 wrote: »

thanks very much lads.

i will try the danish oil so, where can i get it, would it be in the local hardware store.

i am anxious to do the checkering first though as it will be the making of this restoration.

tomcat that would be great if you have a set. i wont need them for long. i could even meet up with you and do it there and then if necessary.

Sorry for the delay Poulo ,picked up them checkering tools today so pm me when ever it suits to collect them up.

poulo6.5

FISMA wrote: »

+1 for hand rubbing and no sprays or clearcoat.

My friend refinished a stock on his Browning A5. He lightly sanded the stock and covered the checkering with tape while sanding. Later when the sanding was done, he used the tools you're looking for.

Absolutely do not use paint remover - it will kill the grain.

I think he used linseed oil as previously mentioned. Hand rubbed. It came out simply beautiful, like my Sako. I'll ask him.

I wouldn't worry about sanding unless there are proof marks or the likes, such as on war guns.

I have a few myself to do... One of these days.

thanks fisma, i sanded the stock completely by hand with 100 grit sand paper then finer and finer. once i put on the first coat of oil and left it to dry, then i rubed it down with fine steel wool. then more oil.
i did that 3 times now and the stock is looking really nice now. i will use it now for a while before putting another coat of oil on it

tomcat220t wrote: »

Sorry for the delay Poulo ,picked up them checkering tools today so pm me when ever it suits to collect them up.

thanks tomcat, just in time. i have the stock sanded down and 3 coats of oil on it.
doing the checkering now will really set it off

Double Barrel

Poulo,

When you have the checkering recut apply a light coat of oil with a soft bristle brush to the newly cut checkering and clean the excess oil up with a soft tooth brush, otherwise the checkering will get dirty and nearly impossible to clean.
The oil will also harden the points and make them less likely to break off.

BTW the old saying is true about linseed oil, apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year thereafter for the rest of your life.

rowa

moby30 wrote: »

Hi paolo. I tried to get my hands on a checkering tool but to no avail. I seen one in use with Pat O Brien in Bray and tried to buy it but there was no way he was gettin rid of it as he reacons it's one of the hardest tools to get your hands on. Most gunmakers use raw linseed oil on their stocks but it takes weeks to build up a deep shine. Oils won't colour the wood but will bring out natural colour and grain in it. I wouldn't use varnish on it myself as you end up with a very cheap looking finish. I have seen stocks laquer coated and it looks good. I done one before with friction polish and it turned out quite good too.

http://www.peterdyson.co.uk/acatalog/CHEQUERING_TOOLS.html

Don't forget tru-oil , beretta use it on their high grade guns, you can make something similar , 1/3 linseed oil , 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 clear gloss varnish mixed and rubbed into the stock.

poulo6.5

Double Barrel wrote: »

Poulo,

When you have the checkering recut apply a light coat of oil with a soft bristle brush to the newly cut checkering and clean the excess oil up with a soft tooth brush, otherwise the checkering will get dirty and nearly impossible to clean.
The oil will also harden the points and make them less likely to break off.

BTW the old saying is true about linseed oil, apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year thereafter for the rest of your life.

rowa wrote: »

http://www.peterdyson.co.uk/acatalog/CHEQUERING_TOOLS.html

Don't forget tru-oil , beretta use it on their high grade guns, you can make something similar , 1/3 linseed oil , 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 clear gloss varnish mixed and rubbed into the stock.

thanks lads, its danish oil that i have used not linseed oil. i dont know if there is any difference between them.
i must put up some before and after pic's as soon as i get a chance.
i have to say it is looking really good at the moment and the checkering should set it off.

i am really enjoying the whole process