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Insulating a house ?

  • 07-12-2011 12:32pm
    #1
    Stealthirl
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,596 ✭✭✭


    Wasant shure where to post this

    My house was built in 1989,its a 4bed semi and at the time we opted to get double glazed windows [wood frame] and 3" of rockwool in the attic

    Recently we have been thinking about improveing the Insulation as the house can be quite cold and drafty

    We looked at the blow in beeds for the wall but I have no idea what type of walls i have. How do i find out ?

    New Insulation in the attic ?

    New windows and doors ? the most costly as iv been told about 13K

    Should i get a BER done before i do any work ?
    Is there any grants out there for any of this work ?


Comments

  • #2
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 42,312 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Stealthirl wrote: »
    My house was built in 1989,its a 4bed semi and at the time we opted to get double glazed windows [wood frame] and 3" of rockwool in the attic

    minimum industry standard at the moment is 12" so theres a lot of improving you can do there.
    Stealthirl wrote: »
    Recently we have been thinking about improveing the Insulation as the house can be quite cold and drafty

    you can deal with the draughty issue with little cost.

    Get a caulk gun and loads of caulk tubes. Install a caulk bead around every window and door, making sure to smooth out the bead. Caulk around every window board and threshold.

    Check all pipe outlets ie toilet pipes, sink pipes, electrics etc and ensure these are well sealed both internally and externally.

    Check windows and doors to make sure they seal correctly when closed. Wooden windows and doors have a tendency to warp over time. Draughts here will be obvious. If you find any get manufacturers advice as how best to seal, they might need bigger draught proofing seals.

    Check your attic hatch. Incorporate draugh seals on both the hatch itself and on the rebate where it sits. Get two small standard bolt latches and install them tight enough to create a good seal at the hatch.

    Check all your ventilation outlets to see if they have movable covers to control ventilation.
    Stealthirl wrote: »
    We looked at the blow in beeds for the wall but I have no idea what type of walls i have. How do i find out ?

    you can check by opening your ESB meter... do you see a cavity?
    you can also check by measuring the thickness of the wall. If its not drylined ie solid on the inside and its in the region of 330-350mm its probably a cavity wall.

    If its about 300mm and drylined internally, its probably a hollw block wall and not suitable for pumping.

    If built in 1989 its most probably one of the two above.
    Stealthirl wrote: »
    New Insulation in the attic ?
    New windows and doors ? the most costly as iv been told about 13K

    yes to the insulation.
    On the windows and doors, theres much more lower costs upgrading you can do before considering replacement. But eventually you will have to.
    Stealthirl wrote: »
    Should i get a BER done before i do any work ?
    Is there any grants out there for any of this work ?

    absolutley get a BER assessment done. However make it clear to the assessor that you want more than just the standard assessment. You want a consise energy report with advice as to how best and practical to upgrade. If you are willing to pay for it, the assessment should include a thermal imaging and air tightness report which would outline in more detail your trouble spots. Make sure the assessor comes from an architectural, engineering or surveying background and has a lot of experience with these kind of upgrade reports.
    what you do not want to end up with is someone who offers you the standard generic seai advisory report.

    on the grant issue, see here


  • #3
    Acheron3
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭Acheron3


    Around how much would one of these surveys cost? I will probably get an air tightness test done with a view to getting the cavity wall beads afterwards.


  • #4
    Carlow52
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    just to add to what has been written, for a 4 bed semi d I dont think 13k on windows/doors will give u much improvement.

    Do u have a porch/ lobby, if not consider it


  • #5
    Stealthirl
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,596 ✭✭✭Stealthirl


    Acheron3 wrote: »
    Around how much would one of these surveys cost? I will probably get an air tightness test done with a view to getting the cavity wall beads afterwards.

    Well iv seen just the BER for between €115-250 not shure for thermal imaging and air tightness reports
    Carlow52 wrote: »
    just to add to what has been written, for a 4 bed semi d I dont think 13k on windows/doors will give u much improvement.

    Do u have a porch/ lobby, if not consider it

    We have a small porch added about 10 years ago

    36645883.png


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