Aritech CS250 - open zone but no open window!

eggerb

Recently, my Aritech CS250 is showing open zones when I attempt to set a full alarm. The zone in question (Upstairs Windows) has all contact sensors. All the windows are closed so I don't know what sensor is causing the problem. I suspect it's just broken and can be binned(?)

How can I identify the problem contact? Is there something in the log that can tell me this? I had a false alarm last week and I could make out the contact from the log (think it read "Res 05 0").

Can I temporarily disable the contact? Is it easy enough to fit a replacement?

Cheers.

fred funk }{

Sounds like a faulty detector. To set the alarm enter your code and go into arm options, scroll down to force arm and press the yes button. Be careful doing that because it will set the alarm no matter whats open.

KoolKid

eggerb wrote: »

Can I temporarily disable the contact? Is it easy enough to fit a replacement?
.

Easy enough once you find the faulty one. How many contacts are on that zone?

altor

eggerb wrote: »

How can I identify the problem contact?

The easiest way if you dont have a multimeter would be to close off the sensors one by one to see which one closes the loop. If they are just contacts disconnect the reed cable on the sensor and join together. Test the loop as your going to find the fault.

KoolKid

If the contacts are 5 terminal like this one


Then you close off the connections to the 2 silver screws.
You may come across one with a resistor or 2 at the end of the loop, if so just disconnect the cable on its own at the silver screw & connect it to the other one at the resistor.

eggerb

Thanks everybody for the replies.

KoolKid wrote: »

Easy enough once you find the faulty one. How many contacts are on that zone?

Nine in total. All on windows. I'll see can I narrow it down then. Is it just a matter of matching it with a similar contact then?

KoolKid

Are the contacts like the ones I posted above.?
If you close them off one by one & test after each one you should find it.
When the zone closes reconnect all other contacts to make sure only one is faulty.

meercat

put your ear to the contact
open window slowly
if you hear a click then chances are its not a faulty contact
move on and check the next one
no click means likely faulty contact

patience and quiet required:D

eggerb

Thanks againa all!

KoolKid wrote: »

Are the contacts like the ones I posted above.?
If you close them off one by one & test after each one you should find it.
When the zone closes reconnect all other contacts to make sure only one is faulty.

Pic below. Excuse my ignorance, but what do I do to close them off?

meercat wrote: »

put your ear to the contact
open window slowly
if you hear a click then chances are its not a faulty contact
move on and check the next one
no click means likely faulty contact

patience and quiet required:D

Not much of that in our house with two toddlers but I'll give it a go

KoolKid

To close of a contact disconnect from the 2 silver terminals and join the 2 cables together.

altor

eggerb wrote: »

Thanks againa all!



Pic below. Excuse my ignorance, but what do I do to close them off?





Not much of that in our house with two toddlers but I'll give it a go

There should be a loop in either the top two or bottom two terminals. Leave this as is. The terminals that has two cables going into it, top or bottom again need to be disconnected and joined together. The middle two are the tamper, these will also need to be joined together as the tamper will remain open with the lid off. If you can spread out the cables a bit more and take a picture we can tell you the cables to disconnect.

eggerb

altor wrote: »

There should be a loop in either the top two or bottom two terminals. Leave this as is. The terminals that has two cables going into it, top or bottom again need to be disconnected and joined together. The middle two are the tamper, these will also need to be joined together as the tamper will remain open with the lid off. If you can spread out the cables a bit more and take a picture we can tell you the cables to disconnect.

Have this one from last night. I'll take a better pic and upload it. Cheers again.

altor

Join the two reds together, join the two blacks together plus join the two blues together. this will close off the sensor for you and keep the loop going to the next sensor.

eggerb

altor wrote: »

Join the two reds together, join the two blacks together plus join the two blues together. this will close off the sensor for you and keep the loop going to the next sensor.

Thanks Altor. I'll give that a go.

1+6 (re? someting can't make it out) 2 red wires.
2+5 (marked sensor) 2 black wires.
3+4 (marked tamper) 2 blue wires.

What's the first one? (more by way of an education!)

altor

eggerb wrote: »

Thanks Altor. I'll give that a go.

1+6 (re? someting can't make it out) 2 red wires.
2+5 (marked sensor) 2 black wires.
3+4 (marked tamper) 2 blue wires.

What's the first one? (more by way of an education!)

Your welcome eggerb,
Hopefully you will find the fault.

1+6 are the reed, for the opening on the sensor.
2+5 are the inertia shock.
3+4 are the tamper for the lid.

eggerb

Went to set the alarm this morning expecting to inhibit the open/problem zone as I have been doing for the last week. Hey presto, the alarm just set. The only contact/opening I was near was the one above so pulling around the wires to take the pic may have done something?

I was a bit nervous about leaving it set then but didn't have time (with the kids in the car) to disable the zone. I'd just prefer no more false alarms or I'll become the boy who cried wolf. I set it anyway. As an aside, can I disable and reset the alarm remotely using the voice/communicator module built into the CS250 panel?

Is it possible a wire just came loose and I resolved it last night by pulling the wires around? Should I leave well alone now or is that contact on the way out and needing replacement? It is the same contact that caused the activatation last week when I had the window in storm position. (Being the en suite window, it's also the most used.)

altor

eggerb wrote: »

Went to set the alarm this morning expecting to inhibit the open/problem zone as I have been doing for the last week. Hey presto, the alarm just set. The only contact/opening I was near was the one above so pulling around the wires to take the pic may have done something?

I was a bit nervous about leaving it set then but didn't have time (with the kids in the car) to disable the zone. I'd just prefer no more false alarms or I'll become the boy who cried wolf. I set it anyway. As an aside, can I disable and reset the alarm remotely using the voice/communicator module built into the CS250 panel?

Is it possible a wire just came loose and I resolved it last night by pulling the wires around? Should I leave well alone now or is that contact on the way out and needing replacement? It is the same contact that caused the activatation last week when I had the window in storm position. (Being the en suite window, it's also the most used.)

For the sensor to stay open and not close once the window is closed I would say it is a faulty sensor. It could be just an intermittent problem so if this happens again replace. If replacing like with like you will need a Astec 417 inertia/contact.

You can not control the system using the voice module, if you wanted to turn on/off using the phone one of these can be connect to allow this function.

eggerb

altor wrote: »

For the sensor to stay open and not close once the window is closed I would say it is a faulty sensor. It could be just an intermittent problem so if this happens again replace. If replacing like with like you will need a Astec 417 inertia/contact.

You can not control the system using the voice module, if you wanted to turn on/off using the phone one of these can be connect to allow this function.

Thanks Altor. Tried to set it again tonight and got open zone. Joined all wires up and still got open zone. So, did a tamper reset (even though no tampers were showing). Anyhow, joined all up again and could set. Seperated the reds and got open zone. Great - thanks for all the advice.

It may well be intermittent. So, I'll get one of those 417 contacts.

That Pyronix box looks impressive.

altor

eggerb wrote: »

Thanks Altor. Tried to set it again tonight and got open zone. Joined all wires up and still got open zone. So, did a tamper reset (even though no tampers were showing). Anyhow, joined all up again and could set. Seperated the reds and got open zone. Great - thanks for all the advice.

It may well be intermittent. So, I'll get one of those 417 contacts.

That Pyronix box looks impressive.

If that is the case then it could be another device on the loop causing the problem, Trial and error without the meter but it is all possible Could even be more than one faulty device on the loop.

Yes it is but you will need the engineer code off the alarm to set it up.

eggerb

altor wrote: »

If that is the case then it could be another device on the loop causing the problem, Trial and error without the meter but it is all possible Could even be more than one faulty device on the loop.

Yes it is but you will need the engineer code off the alarm to set it up.

Sorry to keep revisiting this. It's driving me a bit mad.

Going to bed last night, I set the alarm. I needed to inhibit the problem zone. So, I did a #5# and the alarm set. (Needed to put in the user code first for some reason but it inhibited after that).

This morning, I go to set a full alarm and it sets. I didn't want it setting if there is a dodgy sensor so I ran upstairs and pulled all 3 wires apart to open all 3 circuits. Went downstairs and the alarm still set without any inhibiting. (Kids were killing each other so I left it set!)

I have the engineer code so I'll check the zone later and see if I can post up all config info about the zone. Is there particular info I should post or everything?

altor

eggerb wrote: »

Sorry to keep revisiting this. It's driving me a bit mad.

Going to bed last night, I set the alarm. I needed to inhibit the problem zone. So, I did a #5# and the alarm set. (Needed to put in the user code first for some reason but it inhibited after that).

This morning, I go to set a full alarm and it sets. I didn't want it setting if there is a dodgy sensor so I ran upstairs and pulled all 3 wires apart to open all 3 circuits. Went downstairs and the alarm still set without any inhibiting. (Kids were killing each other so I left it set!)

I have the engineer code so I'll check the zone later and see if I can post up all config info about the zone. Is there particular info I should post or everything?

Could be a problem with the cable itself. Do you know if the zone is set up for duel end of line, check the loop type to confirm.

eggerb

Some config info from the zone:

Type: Burglary
Name: Upstairs Windows
Loop Type: Single Loop
Alarm Type: A Alarm
Double Knock: No
Soak Test: No
Inhibit Zone: Alarm Tamper
Shock Sensor: Gross
Resistance: 8668 ohms

I could be gone mad already but when I first checked 'Resistance' I think it returned a value of 1198500 ohms. Other zones are showing 4627 ohms.

eggerb

I haven't got to close off the other 8 contacts. However, quick question. Does the event log give any clue as to what contact has activated an alarm/been inhibited.

When I inhibit the open zone, I get the following on the display when I view the event log:


RES 05 0 A1

When I first had alarm activations, I checked the log also and seen similair event logs:

RES 05 0 A1 (en suite)

I activated a few more contacts and got different logs, same syntax:

ACT 05 0 A1 (en suite)
ACT 05 1 A1 (left front bedroom)
ACT 05 5 A1 (right front bedroom)

Question then, does this third last digit mean anything? Has "05 0 A1" now become the left front bedroom given that there is no contact on teh ensuite anymore?

altor

All this means is zone 11 was inhibited in full set and on area 1.

There could be a cable issue with is giving the different resistance readings. All you can do is disconnect all the devices and work from there.