Triathlon wheels/tyres - how do you do yours?

EC1000

I'm toying with the idea of upgrading to carbon wheels for next year and have read all of the usual tubs v clincher debates but I was wondering what peoples throughts are on here in relation to the practicality of each for age grouper triathlon (I'm concentrating on a couple of half ironman races for next year and one of them will be my goal race).

I know tubs are supposed to "roll" better but I assume also means carrying a spare tyre for the whole race. Clinchers on the other hand require only a spare tube or two and you're pretty much set for any eventuality. Of course then there's also the price of replacing tubs but they are supposed to last longer and be less prone to punctures.

Anyone got any strong feelings on the subject or what influnced your decision when buying fancy wheels?

shotgunmcos

I weighed up just that decision.

I went for clinchers. Why? Easy to change. Cheaper.
Yes tubs can get you an extra 0.5kmh with better rolling resistance at 170psi but if one goes on you its game over. Some people will argue that they can change a tub faster than a clincher well fair play to them!

If tubs were a no brainer then why does Chrissie Wellington prefer to run clinchers? AFAIK, HED 60mm. I stand to be corrected there BTW

I have the Shimano Dura Ace 50mm carbon clincher rims. They are not deep section but are quick and have held their more than their own over a TT course against all the bling. Oh and you can get a pair of them for the same price you would shell out for a single HED or Zipp rear wheel


Just my 2c

pgibbo

Did Tony Martin ride clinchers when winning the Worlds this year? I thought I heard at the time that he did.

Apparently there are materials that you can get (Stans no tubes and others) that can prevent you getting a puncture with tubs. They don;t impact on rolling resistance either.

Personally I use clinchers and think I will stick with them for now as they're fast and easy to fix.

tunney

shotgunmcos wrote: »

I weighed up just that decision.

I went for clinchers. Why? Easy to change. Cheaper.
Yes tubs can get you an extra 0.5kmh with better rolling resistance at 170psi but if one goes on you its game over. Some people will argue that they can change a tub faster than a clincher well fair play to them!

If tubs were a no brainer then why does Chrissie Wellington prefer to run clinchers? AFAIK, HED 60mm. I stand to be corrected there BTW

I have the Shimano Dura Ace 50mm carbon clincher rims. They are not deep section but are quick and have held their more than their own over a TT course against all the bling. Oh and you can get a pair of them for the same price you would shell out for a single HED or Zipp rear wheel


Just my 2c

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Tri_Bike_by_brand/Kona_2011_-_Top_15_men_on_the_bike_2416.html

Any clinchers there?

Chrissie is notorious for being mechanically inept.

canhascheez

How many times have you punctured in a race? How many of those times if any have you bothered to change a tube and continue? If you puncture your race is over tubs or not.

pgibbo

tunney wrote: »

Chrissie is notorious for being mechanically inept.

She's not the only one! Mind you, I am trying to change that.

EC1000

canhascheez wrote: »

How many times have you punctured in a race? How many of those times if any have you bothered to change a tube and continue? If you puncture your race is over tubs or not.

Definitely true in a sprint race, and an olympic for that matter also. But in a HIM, and definitely in an IM (which I hope to do someday... and probably with these wheels which is why I am asking the question now!) your race most definitely not over if you pick up a puncture. If you can change a tube in 5 mins then thats not a huge amount to tag on to a 90 or 180km bike.

If you have a blow out on a tub is that game over? Is it possible to change a tub on the side of the road? Dont they have to be glued on?

BennyMul

I have both a pair of Tubs and clinchers,

the main downside of tubs I see are,
A good tub is more expensive that a clincher
if not fitted correctly they will roll over and down you go.
You have to carry tape to "glue" the tubb in the event of a puncture

on the flip side.
as they can be pumped to a higher psi less prone to flats
with the higher psi they are faster 150psi + for a good tub.

personally I will not be buying another pair of Tubs, Good tyres have closed the gap to tubs over the past few years.

if it was me (and will be soon if I can afford it) I would be looking for a min of 75mm depp carbon clinchers.

my 2c

tunney

canhascheez wrote: »

How many times have you punctured in a race? How many of those times if any have you bothered to change a tube and continue? If you puncture your race is over tubs or not.

Not that many punctures in races thankfully.

Clinchers or tubs - anything other an IM and I'm calling it a day if I puncture. No point in continuing.


A tub isn't hard to change btw. To glue properly yes, change to finish a race, nope.

tunney

BennyMul wrote: »

I have both a pair of Tubs and clinchers,

the main downside of tubs I see are,
A good tub is more expensive that a clincher
if not fitted correctly they will roll over and down you go.
You have to carry tape to "glue" the tubb in the event of a puncture

on the flip side.
as they can be pumped to a higher psi less prone to flats
with the higher psi they are faster 150psi + for a good tub.

personally I will not be buying another pair of Tubs, Good tyres have closed the gap to tubs over the past few years.

if it was me (and will be soon if I can afford it) I would be looking for a min of 75mm depp carbon clinchers.

my 2c

You don't need to carry tape to "glue" a spare on, using tape full stop is a silly idea - roll much slower.

going above 120 psi for most triathletes is counter productive. a 150psi inflated tyre will roll slower than a 110-120psi.

EC1000 wrote: »

If you have a blow out on a tub is that game over? Is it possible to change a tub on the side of the road? Dont they have to be glued on?

There will still be glue on the rim and glue on the new tyre. The pressure of the tyre inflated will how the tub on, although you'd be more cautious in corners.

hf4z6sqo7vjngi

Currently clinchers for me but I would not entirely rule out tubs considering i am looking at a bike upgrade right now which comes fitted with tubs on zipps.

Fazz

I too had this decision a while ago.

It was only that I picked up a set of second hand 808's in tubs for a good price that made my decision.

Whilst I can't compare time wise as I changed to tt bike at same time, I can report they are a bit lighter that's for sure.

As stated, for Olympic and below a puncture will end your race, but above that not necessarily so.
Personally, once tyres are inflated to correct pressure you'd hope that come race day you don't get a bit of bad luck.
On that basis, do you opt for the weight advantage and go tubs, or clincher and peace of mind?
Do you race with spares at the moment?
I know I did up to recently, then stopped and saved more weight.

I currently have a set of 808 tubs that I only use for races.
I do have a can of pitstop tucked under saddle in case of disaster.
This apparently will fill up tyre with foam and seal puncture enough to carry on. At what speed I don't know...

If I was racing half/full ironman distance, I think I'd have to decide whether to take the hit on weight for a puncture/two and go clincher, or save weight and go with tub and pitstop.

All the top pro's (men at least), obv favour tubs for lightness and good experience for low puncture risks.
For us AG'ers, it's less important perhaps but same principal applies.

Punctures should still be a rarity, but nonetheless a risk so it's a personal call, and also circumstantial call in terms of if a puncture on any wheel will cost you your objective (e,g: qualy space for worlds/Kona etc), then best with lighter wheels you'd imagine.

It could be painful if travelling to international race, puncturing and no option to continue. Bad luck and costly most likely.
Pitstop may be option to continue though.
2 punctures and just call it a day!

So, race lightest possible with tubs and can of pitstop.
Or safest with clinchers, and spare tube/2 and kit.

Weight difference is objective as to how important it'd actually be anyway.


I think if I was buying new now, It's a tough call.
Also depends if using purely for races or not.
If using for training also, then clinchers for me definitely.


Any weight experts here?
How much would 1kg or so cost? 1kg being clinchers extra weight with spares approx difference is say. Maybe bit less.

kennyb3

I'd use the cash to buy a power metre if you don't already have one.

I'd also get a bike fit long before i put on fancy wheels.

hf4z6sqo7vjngi

http://triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2011/11/30/bike-tech-tubular-vs-clincher-tyres/

Article on tubs v clinchers.

couerdelion

Gracelyn Eager Teflon wrote: »

http://triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2011/11/30/bike-tech-tubular-vs-clincher-tyres/

Article on tubs v clinchers.

I read that earlier and when it was comparing ease to change the tyre it had them as a tie. Maybe a tub isn't as difficult these days but it's usually more difficult than a clincher.

griffin100

Take the p!ss test........

If you wet yourself on the bike in an IM then it's tubs for you........... if you get off to p!ss then your a clincher man!

round wheels

hehehe brilliant

haggis_mccloud

shotgunmcos wrote: »

I have the Shimano Dura Ace 50mm carbon clincher rims. They are not deep section but are quick and have held their more than their own over a TT course against all the bling. Oh and you can get a pair of them for the same price you would shell out for a single HED or Zipp rear wheel

Just my 2c

I'm currently trying to decide what wheels to buy for the new tri season. I like the look of the Shimano Dura Ace 50mm clinchers. Shotgun, if you don't mind me asking, where did you get yours? Best price I can find is on Bike 24. And are the Dura Ace really worth the extra few hundred quid compared to the Shimano RS80s?
I keep jumping between the DuraAce 50, DuraAce 35 and the RS80s. Am gonna pull the trigger soon on one of them! :rolleyes:

shotgunmcos

haggis_mccloud wrote: »

I'm currently trying to decide what wheels to buy for the new tri season. I like the look of the Shimano Dura Ace 50mm clinchers. Shotgun, if you don't mind me asking, where did you get yours? Best price I can find is on Bike 24. And are the Dura Ace really worth the extra few hundred quid compared to the Shimano RS80s?
I keep jumping between the DuraAce 50, DuraAce 35 and the RS80s. Am gonna pull the trigger soon on one of them! :rolleyes:

Hey the Shimano DA 50sare the only race wheel I have owned so I cannot compare. Can't remember exactly to be honest circa €900 from chain reaction I think

BennyMul

Planet X are having a sale on wheels, here is a link to the RS80 for a good price.
if you go to their uk site, you can get unbranded carbon wheels for a very nice price.

http://planetxireland.com/products-page/clincher-wheels/shimano-rs80-50mm-carbon-clincher-wheelset-2/

big mce

That's a very tempting price.

Trig1

tunney wrote: »

going above 120 psi for most triathletes is counter productive. a 150psi inflated tyre will roll slower than a 110-120psi.

.

I'm a bit confused.. i'm new to triathlons- done 1 at the end of last season and plan to do alot this season, few duathlons done already, I have a decent road bike with normal tyres..going well though- at 34min 20k pace, conti gp4000s tyres, cannot even remember make of my wheels..anyway I've always pumped to 120psi and found that fine until my brother- experienced triathlete with a few years experience told me to pump to 140psi - i'll go faster (he has a fuji tri bike), I suppose my question is- what pressure should I pump my tyres to 140psi or 110-120psi

tunney

Trig1 wrote: »

I'm a bit confused.. i'm new to triathlons- done 1 at the end of last season and plan to do alot this season, few duathlons done already, I have a decent road bike with normal tyres..going well though- at 34min 20k pace, conti gp4000s tyres, cannot even remember make of my wheels..anyway I've always pumped to 120psi and found that fine until my brother- experienced triathlete with a few years experience told me to pump to 140psi - i'll go faster (he has a fuji tri bike), I suppose my question is- what pressure should I pump my tyres to 140psi or 110-120psi

Advice of your brother, who is an experienced triathlete, or randomers on the internet?

If it was me I'd take the advice of my brother over randomers.

Admittedly your brother is wrong for many reasons

(One being the max rating of the Conti GP4000s)

big mce

Ah Tunney, The guy thought he was on to something!!!!!!!!!

Notwitch

Will be riding a michelin open pro clincher with disc cover rear and hopefully a wide rim 60mm deep front clincher on a specialized trans.
Was thinking Michelin pro 3 race 23m tyres with latex tubes but...

todays cyclesuperstore deal includes Schwalbe Ultremo ZX which were also one of my possible tyre options.

Any experiences / thoughts?

thanks.

Notwitch

Notwitch wrote: »

Will be riding a michelin open pro clincher with disc cover rear and hopefully a wide rim 60mm deep front clincher on a specialized trans.
Was thinking Michelin pro 3 race 23m tyres with latex tubes but...

todays cyclesuperstore deal includes Schwalbe Ultremo ZX which were also one of my possible tyre options.

Any experiences / thoughts?

thanks.

So i did a bit more digging.

Based on (i think) generally well regarded crr data (latest table is located here http://biketechreview.com/tires/rolling-resistance/475-roller-data)

Tyre/tube:width:crr:

Michelin Pro 3 Race (23)/Mich Latex Tube (22/23):23:0.00306

and located a recent forum update covering the schwalbes

Schwalbe Ultremo ZX (23)/Mich latex 22/23 : 23.5 : 0.00292.

So, schwalbes crr actually better than Pro 3s.

However, i have always used GP4000s before. And they score as follows:

Continental GP 4000S (23)/Michelin Latex (22/23):23:0.00284


I know them, have been very happy with them to date and with their puncture resistance. So, it seems, no reason to spend any money now.

Izoard

Notwitch wrote: »

So i did a bit more digging.

Based on (i think) generally well regarded crr data (latest table is located here http://biketechreview.com/tires/rolling-resistance/475-roller-data)

Tyre/tube:width:crr:

Michelin Pro 3 Race (23)/Mich Latex Tube (22/23):23:0.00306

and located a recent forum update covering the schwalbes

Schwalbe Ultremo ZX (23)/Mich latex 22/23 : 23.5 : 0.00292.

So, schwalbes crr actually better than Pro 3s.

However, i have always used GP4000s before. And they score as follows:

Continental GP 4000S (23)/Michelin Latex (22/23):23:0.00284


I know them, have been very happy with them to date and with their puncture resistance. So, it seems, no reason to spend any money now.

'000s of km on the Contis with no trouble, <170 km with the Schwables with 5 punctures* #justsayin'

* may not be statistically relevant....

mloc123

I use pro3s, I like them... thats all I can add.

griffin100

About 5k km on mitchelon pro litheon 3 tyres with no punctures. Hardly race tyres though.