DIY service

rustynutz

New to cycling, just bought a new Felt F95 from Wiggle. I have about 100km on it and I know it is recommended to service them after the first few hundred miles. I'd rather do the work myself, have had motorbikes for years which I always serviced myself so can't imagine a pushbike being too hard! So apart from oiling the chain and checking nuts and bolts what should a service involve?

bcmf

After 100kms its really taking any stretch outta the cables. if your gear change has got a little 'sloppy' just adjust the barrel on the back of your rear mech by a quarter of a turn. Make sure nothing is loose or creaking. A token tighten of every bolt/nut if you are happy with the fit.Unless you have been cycling through mud floods I wouldnt be putting any lube on the chain yet.
Make sure your brake pads havent moved from the brake track on the wheels and that they are stopping you without any issue.

cdaly_

Oiling the chain should happen more frequently than a service. Every couple of weeks. Don't (like a biker colleague of mine) use motorbike chain oil 'cos it'll attract tons of dirt...

The running in service involves adjusting gears and brakes 'cos their cables stretch. Check the headset is properly adjusted (grab front brake and attempt to rock the bike forward and back. The fork / steerer shouldn't move in relation to the head tube. Lift the front of the bike by the frame, the bars should flop sideways without resistance).

Tonyandthewhale

The factory lube on the chain is always better than any after market stuff so leave cleaning and re-lubing for as long as possible when the bike is new (just make sure the chain isn't covered in grit or all the oil washed off). After that you want to clean and re-lube the chain every few rides. Remember to thoroughly clean the chain as putting lube on a dirty chain is a complete waste of time.

Tyre pressure should be checked regularly also and will have to be topped up every now and again. Required pressure depends on the tyre and how heavy you are and you're own preference but I wouldn't leave the house on 700x23mm tyres without at least 90psi.

If you want to do your own servicing over time you'll have to replace the chain and also the cassette as well as the brake pads and even the rims can wear and chain-rings will wear out eventually although the last a good long while. Obviously tyres need to be replaced when they stop being puncture resistant due to wear or start splitting etc.

The most important thing you can do is keep everything clean. As I've already said, the chain should be spotless, pretty much like new. You'll also want to keep the cassette and chainrings clean or they'll dirty the chain. making sure your rims and brake pads are clear of embedded debris will also prolong the life of both these items.
Jockey wheels in your rear derailleur similarly must be cleaned ever now and then and replaced when they wear down.
To prevent punctures, regularly check your tyres for embedded glass and metal etc which might eventually work it's way through and cause punctures.

All the various bearings will all also wear out eventually and must be cleaned and regreased or replaced but at 100km you're a long way from having to worry about that.

munsterleinster

Nuts and bolts on the major parts tend not to loosen.
Check the small stuff like water bottle cages etc.

Spoke tension should be checked. Even a simple ping of the spokes to check they sound the same. Buy a spoke key to adjust them.

As said above, cables with stretch. This will be most pronounced on the rear gear changes. Just a simple tighten at the adjuster will do the job.
After a while the cables should be lubricated to make sure they slide nice and smooth inside the casing.
This stuff is great http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2607

Most people feck around with the stem on a new bike. Make sure it's not too tight or loose as it will affect the bearings on the headset.

bustopher

@ cdaly

I believe that motorcycle oil carries the lubrication suspended in a liquid. The liquid helps the lube to penetrate the pins/rollers/bushings and then evaporates leaving lube only with less overall fluid on/in the chain.

As I said at the start 'I believe..' this to be true but am open to correction/opinion.


Edit
I refer to motorbike chain oil specifically and not to be confused with engine oil

cdaly_

Maybe so. This chain was soo black and sticky though. I presumed it was a much heavier oil than that used on bikes...