HKC Alarm

beanie10

Hello, I would appreciate anybodies help on this.
I am installing a HKC alarm Sw 1070 10 zone panel in my house.
Im putting inertia sensors with reed contact on the windows 4 pir in various locations. The inertia sensors/reeds have 6 terminals 2 for tamper, 2 for sensor and 2 for reed.
Every window and pir is brought back separatly to the panel.
could anyone tell me how to connect these sensors/reeds and how to get 3 windows on one zone.
also how can the pir be connected to one zone.

KoolKid

Hello beanie
You have to series the 3 zones like this.


Excuse my PS skills....
If it doesn't make sense this is basically it
5 & 6 are joined by a short loop in each sensor.
1 & 2 are the alarm zone
3 & 4 are the tampers

Lets call the sensors A B & C

Join the red from A to the black on B Join the red from B to the black on C
You now have a single red & a single black to wire in the zone input.
Now
Join the blue from A to the yellow on B , join the blue from B to yellow on C
You now have a single blue & a single yellow to wire into the tamper input.

altor

beanie10 wrote: »

also how can the pir be connected to one zone.

The PIR is wired the same into a zone as a sensor is. 2 cores power, 2 cores for alarm and two cores for the tamper. The 12v supply for the PIR is located beside the keypad terminals in the control panel. If you only had a 4 core cable going to the PIR you could use the resistors and wire the PIR as dual end of line, that would be 2 cores for the power and 2 cores for the alarm, tamper.

farbe

I am having a wired alarm installed and recommended HKC Panel 8/10 as being very reliable, well tried and tested'. Despite being on the market a long time, I understand that it is still frequently used. The technology in the 10/70 is not required for my installation but is this being short sighted. What your opinion.

altor

farbe wrote: »

I am having a wired alarm installed and recommended HKC Panel 8/10 as being very reliable, well tried and tested'. Despite being on the market a long time, I understand that it is still frequently used. The technology in the 10/70 is not required for my installation but is this being short sighted. What your opinion.

The 8/12 is the older panel, the newer 1070 is the one to go for. Regardless of what the installer wants to install. There are a lot of companies still installing it. Makes no sense to me, only saves them 20 buying it. Text or voice. Much quicker panel to use also. This panel has the ability to add two way wire free devices so if down the road you did have a problem with any cables you can add wire free components to it. Even if there is a problem in the middle of a loop of windows then the wire free sensor can continue the loop saving you the need for replacing every component. I would insist on the 1070 over the 8/12.

fred funk }{

I agree with Altor. The SecureWAVE is the way to go. The SecureWATCH will be discontinued shortly so you'd be crazy to have it installed.

KoolKid

+1 to Fred and Altor.
Put it this way. If you went into a phone shop and the guy in there shop tried to sell you a Nokia 6100 what would you tell him.
No logical reason to install this in my opinion.

farbe

Thanks for your opinion on control panels but can't understand why 8/10 panel is still favoured by so many as there is little difference in overall price. Is it easier to install? I understand the box is steel while 10/70 is a type of plastic. Do you recommend using key fobs?

altor

farbe wrote: »

Thanks for your opinion on control panels but can't understand why 8/10 panel is still favoured by so many as there is little difference in overall price. Is it easier to install? I understand the box is steel while 10/70 is a type of plastic. Do you recommend using key fobs?

I cant either, it is not something I would recommend over the 1070 panel. In terms of installation the 1070 is easier as it has more ways of getting the cables in. The 1070 is made of polycarbonate to allow for the the signals form the wire free devices to communicate with the control panel. With the 1070 you can have keyfobs. They can be set up for one button to turn on and off or one button on and code off. They can also be easily deleted off the system if needs be.

fred funk }{

There is no reason for any installer to insist on installing a Securewatch. The Securewave beats it hands down on everything. The only thing I can think of is that the installer is stuck in his ways and doesn't like change.

KoolKid

fred funk }{ wrote: »

The only thing I can think of is that the installer is stuck in his ways and doesn't like change.

I know a few like that. I really don't understand why consumers accept this. You wouldn't accept it for any other home appliance etc. .

Irish Fire

KoolKid wrote: »

I know a few like that. I really don't understand why consumers accept this. You wouldn't accept it for any other home appliance etc. .

Can never understand why they wont change......

altor

Irish Fire wrote: »

Can never understand why they wont change......

Especially in this case, I know the panel is €20 more but in terms of added features to the customer than this should out way the cost in the long run. I know from my own perspective, any wired install I do would be the securewave over the 8/12.

flantastic

hi lads, can i run this dialler through my hkc 1070 with the use of a upc line as thats the only one i have in my house.(dtv dialler securewave)

altor

flantastic wrote: »

hi lads, can i run this dialler through my hkc 1070 with the use of a upc line as thats the only one i have in my house.(dtv dialler securewave)

Yes, that is correct. You will need to set up the voice option for the zones to get a description of what has activated.

flantastic

so it willl have no problem dialling out through the modem

altor

flantastic wrote: »

so it willl have no problem dialling out through the modem

No problem at all. The UPC just provides a line to dial out.

ckinane

Can I used a Wired Outside Strobe Bell with the HKC SW-1070

altor

ckinane wrote: »

Can I used a Wired Outside Strobe Bell with the HKC SW-1070

What type external bell is it?

ckinane

Have not the System purchased yet, But most likely the SABB-PCRB

altor

ckinane wrote: »

Have not the System purchased yet, But most likely the SABB-PCRB

Yes any global sabb will work with this system.

ckinane

Thanks Altor for your help

altor

ckinane wrote: »

Thanks Altor for your help

Your welcome, any other questions let us know

ckinane

Hi Guys,

I recently setup my HKC 10/70 Alarm, I have Dialler connected and setup to Text my and partner phones, but also to Ring my phone.
I ran a full alarm test, When I enter the Front Door, Wait for the alarm disarm time to count down without unsetting the Alarm, then trigger the Kitchen PIR whict set of the Alarm, Both phones got Text's but my phone did not ring me. It does ring me for all other Alarm Activation. Just to be clear the Front door is set to Ent/Exit.
Thanks

DJW22

Hi, How can I change this to wire one HKC shock sensor with a magnetic contact bit. Is it 1/2 for alarm and 3/4 for tamper and connect 5/6 together as in picture below. (does this allow for magnetic sensor part of this dual sensor?) (also do these sensors not need power from the panel?)

KoolKid wrote: »

Hello beanie
You have to series the 3 zones like this.


Excuse my PS skills....
If it doesn't make sense this is basically it
5 & 6 are joined by a short loop in each sensor.
1 & 2 are the alarm zone
3 & 4 are the tampers

Lets call the sensors A B & C

Join the red from A to the black on B Join the red from B to the black on C
You now have a single red & a single black to wire in the zone input.
Now
Join the blue from A to the yellow on B , join the blue from B to yellow on C
You now have a single blue & a single yellow to wire into the tamper input.

altor

DJW22 wrote: »

Hi, How can I change this to wire one HKC shock sensor with a magnetic contact bit. Is it 1/2 for alarm and 3/4 for tamper and connect 5/6 together as in picture below. (does this allow for magnetic sensor part of this dual sensor?) (also do these sensors not need power from the panel?)

That's correct. Just put a loop of cable in 1-2 tamper 3-4 then wire the alarm into 5-6.
This enables the shock and reed to function in series.
They dont need power from the panel.

DJW22

Hi there,
Have just finished wiring some PIR's and dual shock sensors/mag sensors. HKC securewave 1070. Have a few q's about this.

With the dual shock sensors/mag sensors, HKC brand, at what end do I put the magnet bit. There are no arrows except the one pointing upwards. I placed in under the shock sensor on the horizontal towards the barrel end?? is this ok?

I have only one sensor for each zone, I put an EOL 4k7 resistor on the sensor on the alarm wire in the sensor. ok or not?

In the panel for the zones/tamper connections i did not use, do I leave the the little u-shaped wire connecting up the 2 alarm connections and 2 tamper connections of each?

Does the external siren SABB need its external battery wired. I find it a nuisance, when I started it up for the first time of the battery in the panel and unplugged it kept gooing off? Up the ladder i went to disconnect it!! Will the system notice that it is unplugged?

Finally has anyone got a programming manual for the keypad. Koolkid gave me the install manual, thanks, but it doesnt have a procedure for programming the keypad/panel for the first time.


Cheers all

KoolKid

DJW22 wrote: »

With the dual shock sensors/mag sensors, HKC brand, at what end do I put the magnet bit. There are no arrows except the one pointing upwards. I placed in under the shock sensor on the horizontal towards the barrel end?? is this ok?

Your best be is to line it up with the reed before you put the lid on. You will see the contact in the glass on one side of the sensor.

DJW22 wrote: »

I have only one sensor for each zone, I put an EOL 4k7 resistor on the sensor on the alarm wire in the sensor. ok or not?

Using single EOL you wire the resistor in series with the zone. So on a single cable into a MC the pair would go into 1 & 2 & the resistor across 5 & 6 .

DJW22 wrote: »

In the panel for the zones/tamper connections i did not use, do I leave the the little u-shaped wire connecting up the 2 alarm connections and 2 tamper connections of each?

Thats correct.

DJW22 wrote: »

Does the external siren SABB need its external battery wired. I find it a nuisance, when I started it up for the first time of the battery in the panel and unplugged it kept gooing off? Up the ladder i went to disconnect it!! Will the system notice that it is unplugged?

Leave it disconnected until everything is done then reconnect it.

DJW22 wrote: »

Finally has anyone got a programming manual for the keypad. Koolkid gave me the install manual, thanks, but it doesnt have a procedure for programming the keypad/panel for the first time.

It should be all in that one. I'm sending it again to be sure. What problems are you having setting up the keypad?

DJW22

Originally Posted by DJW22

I have only one sensor for each zone, I put an EOL 4k7 resistor on the sensor on the alarm wire in the sensor. ok or not?

Using single EOL you wire the resistor in series with the zone. So on a single cable into a MC the pair would go into 1 & 2 & the resistor across 5 & 6 .

On say a PIR, I have wired it with 2 wires for power, 2 for tamper and 2 into N/C and on the wire going into the c connection I have a 4k7 resistor. Is this not correct for an EOL PIR?

For a magnetic sensor on the front door I wired the two alarm wires onto each copper connection(with a resistor on one of them) and connected two tamper wires together onto a single screw on the sensor. as below


8.Connect the alarm cores into the 2 zone terminals and the tamper cores into the global tamper circuit - see below.

4-wire CCL (Closed Circuit Loop) Wiring - single contact

Is this correct?

altor

DJW22 wrote: »

On say a PIR, I have wired it with 2 wires for power, 2 for tamper and 2 into N/C and on the wire going into the c connection I have a 4k7 resistor. Is this not correct for an EOL PIR?

Single end of line. It just need to be installed in series with the PIR.

DJW22 wrote: »

For a magnetic sensor on the front door I wired the two alarm wires onto each copper connection(with a resistor on one of them) and connected two tamper wires together onto a single screw on the sensor. as below

All depends on the sensor type. Some don't have a tamper so the way around this is to connect the tamper to the sensor as you have described.

DJW22 wrote: »

8.Connect the alarm cores into the 2 zone terminals and the tamper cores into the global tamper circuit - see below.

The HKC panel provides a tamper for each zone.
Better to use this than one zone for all the tampers.

DJW22 wrote: »

4-wire CCL (Closed Circuit Loop) Wiring - single contact

Is this correct?

It is just telling you the zone has to be closed for the panel to see it closed.
If anything is wired incorrectly you will find that out when testing.

DJW22

Cheers. Have wired my last two Magnetic Contact sensors!!!. This should the end of the wiring part for me

While working on this install I disconnected the intenal battery of the SABB. Can I leave this disconnected permanently? The SABB is really high up on a two storey A big deal to get up to it. Will a fault be registered on the keypad if I leave it disconnected? I am installing a HKC securewave alarm.

Cheers guys


ps Thanks for all the help

altor

DJW22 wrote: »

Cheers. Have wired my last two Magnetic Contact sensors!!!. This should the end of the wiring part for me

While working on this install I disconnected the intenal battery of the SABB. Can I leave this disconnected permanently? The SABB is really high up on a two storey A big deal to get up to it. Will a fault be registered on the keypad if I leave it disconnected? I am installing a HKC securewave alarm.

Cheers guys


ps Thanks for all the help

You can and it will not show a fault but if an intruder was to down power your alarm system then the outside bell would go dead too. I would reconnect it.

DJW22

Hi there,

I have a PIR in a sitting room with a much used fireplace. The PIR is picking up the heat source and is always being triggered. It is a Pyronix PIR. I have reduced the sensitivity by removing the bridging contact in the PIR itself but still is too sensitive. Any ideas?

DJW22

altor

DJW22 wrote: »

Cheers. Have wired my last two Magnetic Contact sensors!!!. This should the end of the wiring part for me

While working on this install I disconnected the intenal battery of the SABB. Can I leave this disconnected permanently? The SABB is really high up on a two storey A big deal to get up to it. Will a fault be registered on the keypad if I leave it disconnected? I am installing a HKC securewave alarm.

Cheers guys


ps Thanks for all the help

Other than moving the detector you could install a Dual Tech PIR.

DJW22

How about blocking half the sensor with a piece of insulation tape (from the inside)? Will give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens

KoolKid

DJW22 wrote: »

Hi there,

I have a PIR in a sitting room with a much used fireplace. The PIR is picking up the heat source and is always being triggered. It is a Pyronix PIR. I have reduced the sensitivity by removing the bridging contact in the PIR itself but still is too sensitive. Any ideas?

DJW22

DJW22 wrote: »

How about blocking half the sensor with a piece of insulation tape (from the inside)? Will give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens

It may work but its really hit & miss. A duel tec is the correct solution.

DJW22

Cheers, will let you know how I get on

altor

DJW22 wrote: »

How about blocking half the sensor with a piece of insulation tape (from the inside)? Will give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens

That is ok in theory but never really works. The PIR works by picking up on temperature rises in an area. You will still have the same issue as hot air rises. You best bet is to replace with a dual tech.

conor o brien

altor wrote: »

Yes, that is correct. You will need to set up the voice option for the zones to get a description of what has activated.

Hi altor, sorry for coming back to this, I have just installed this panel and wondering if it will also text me if my UPC conected phone can send text. Another words doing the job of a GSM unit without the price.

KoolKid

You can not send text over a UPC line.

altor

conor o brien wrote: »

Hi altor, sorry for coming back to this, I have just installed this panel and wondering if it will also text me if my UPC conected phone can send text. Another words doing the job of a GSM unit without the price.

Hi Conor,

The 10/70 using the DTV wont send text but you can use voice with the UPC. What this means is any audio zone programmed will tell you of the activation's.

Another option is to use the GSM-Q which plugs direct onto the board.
Half the price of the GSM-P.

conor o brien

Thanks altor, got myself one of those GSM-Q units today pretty nifty little thing.
Got myself a meteor pay as you go SIM and all is up and running.
Thanks for the help not just this but for your many post through out boards.
and thanks to koolkid for your time.:D

altor

conor o brien wrote: »

Thanks altor, got myself one of those GSM-Q units today pretty nifty little thing.
Got myself a meteor pay as you go SIM and all is up and running.
Thanks for the help not just this but for your many post through out boards.
and thanks to koolkid for your time.:D

Nice and neat as its a plug on. You can also control the outputs on the board of the 10/70 to control lights/heat, any device you can turn on and off.

Try my best Conor