Removing airlock in kerosene boiler

zzap64

A common issue I'm sure. We ran out of oil last year and got some more in last week. Started the system and nothing happens. Red light is on at boiler so pressing that in, starts the burner and it clicks twice and then switches off, I'm assuming it's an air lock, but I need some help in figuring out what to screw where to remove it.



I assume I need to turn the golden dial or screw. Turning the dial clockwise just makes it come off the screw without turning the screw. I can turn it anti-clockwise a little but then it sticks.

So, I tried turning the screw clockwise with a pliers, which turns and turning the dial anti-clockwise also seemed to turn the screw anti-clockwise as well. I did a good few turns clockwise with the pliers but then the dial wouldn't run anti-clockwise again. I was trying to turn the screw clockwise until some air etc. come out (I guess this is what is meant to happen?) but if the dial isn't turning anti-clockwise it'll be messy to stop the flow.

Am what I am trying to do sound okay? Or am I screwing something that I shouldn't be screwing etc.?

Thanks.

Billy Bunting

If your referring to the small brass valve front and below the burner then i'm affraid you may have made matters worse, thats a fire valve and shouldnt have been touch, by turning it anti clockwise to tightly you will seperate the wheelhead from the valve.
The bleed point on your Riello RDB is behind the red cover.

Oh!! and your filter is upside down.

Carlow52

zzap64 wrote: »

Or am I screwing something that I shouldn't be screwing etc.?

:D
In the boiler house yes, as to elsewhere....:)

I think you have thrashed the brass valve and it will need replacing.

to see if it is fobar u can loosen the flexible hose on the RHS and see does the oil flow out steadily. if it gets this far the boiler will start on the next try or maybe 2 tries

zzap64

Balls... I didn't turn with too much force anticlockwise but I did go a good few turns clockwise with the pliers on the screw...

If I bled the air correctly behind the cover ( this looks good - http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=55112768 ) and it all works again, does that mean the fire value is fine or it might not work when it's needed? i.e. in a fire!

I know about the filter, a delivery guy told me about that a year or two ago. Kinda no room to put it the correct way now it seems. I thought the same delivery guy was showing me how to unblock an air lock with the brass value, but maybe he did take off the cover.. can't remember.

Billy Bunting

zzap64 wrote: »

If I bled the air correctly behind the cover ( this looks good - http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=55112768 ) and it all works again, does that mean the fire value is fine or it might not work when it's needed? i.e. in a fire!

.

Jamesm's post explaines it good enough.

You could well have oil but no fire safety hard to say via a picture.

zzap64

I took the cover off anyway, but it's not totally obvious (to me) which allen nut (?) I should be turning. As I have learnt already, a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing, so telling me whether it's "option 1" or "option 2" as marked on the images would be appreciated. Thanks.

Billy Bunting

Start with opening option 2 a couple of turns and run the burner, watch for bibbles coming out and re-tighten once they clear, the burner may lockout a few times before all the bubbles clear.

zzap64

Worked a charm. Thanks all for the advice.

I decided to try it first without having the burner turned on just in case I managed to blow myself up.

I was expecting a big flow so I had a big rag and basin underneath to collect, but all that came out were the bubbles and a small bit of kero. I re-tightened and started her up by pressing the red reset button and it kicked in for a few seconds before going off again so I repeated the process and it stayed on the next time. It's been going for an hour now with no issues.

I know I might have buggered the fire value so I'll see if I can get the local plumper to replace that just in case.

Weylin

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Boiler Bleed Valve

Model: BB1


Have you ever failed to restart your oil burner after filling your oil tank? All too often the problem is caused by an air-lock in your oil burner. You then have the difficulty and expense of getting someone to call out and fix it.
Boilerbleed, an Irish Company, have developed this simple but effective boiler bleed valve that once fitted will allow you conveniently and permanently release air locks.

Features:

• Fits all type of home oil burners
• Can be fitted in a few minutes

Note: All prices are inclusive of VAT





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Normal delivery time of 2 to 4 working days

Price €30.00

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this takes approx 5-10 minutes to fit.and will cure any airlock in seconds. open the large screw,wait until kerosene flows out without any bubbles, close screw ,job done!
this screws permanently into front of burner

zzap64

Weylin wrote: »

this takes approx 5-10 minutes to fit.and will cure any airlock in seconds. open the large screw,wait until kerosene flows out without any bubbles, close screw ,job done!
this screws permanently into front of burner

Interesting, but all it really saves is having to unscrew the two screws that hold the burner cover in place. After that I had to unscrew an allen bolt and "wait until kerosene flows out without any bubbles, close screw".

Same as would have to be done with the above addition anyway.

tred

zzap64 wrote: »

Interesting, but all it really saves is having to unscrew the two screws that hold the burner cover in place. After that I had to unscrew an allen bolt and "wait until kerosene flows out without any bubbles, close screw".

Same as would have to be done with the above addition anyway.

When your plumber comes to fix the fire valve, get him to put in a tiger loop. Well worth it.

kscobie

I heard if one of these are fitted, it invalidates the warranty on the burner, anyone else hear similar ??

tred

kscobie wrote: »

I heard if one of these are fitted, it invalidates the warranty on the burner, anyone else hear similar ??

Not true, just checked with Supplier. There documented on the firebird manual. Now if there installed arseways or incorrectly i am sure that would invalidate any warranty.
http://www.firebird.ie/Portals/0/docs/std%20SYSTEM-MANUAL.pdf

Allready tested mine.....Best thing ever!!

maxell

You would be better loosening 'option 1', as the boiler maintenance person uses 'option 2' for tuning your boiler. In most cases if you loosen option 1 and press the red buttion to the front the boiler, it will clear the airlock. It may take quite a few attempts, the boiler will lock each time if it is getting no oil. You may have to wait 30 seconds or so before trying again. When oil starts pouring out of 'option 1' close it and you should be good to go. If that does not work, as happens to my boiler sometimes, you have to check your oil filter, which is probably attached to your oil tank is dirty, turn off the supply to it and clean it, put it back and try again. If that does not work call a plumber. I was brave and disconnected the oil pipe at several connections and finally at the fire shutoff valve (not everyone has one of these) which suddenly cleared the pipe. Not for the fainthearted though.

DGOBS

would hope he has figured that out since last november;)

.243

DGOBS wrote: »

would hope he has figured that out since last november;)

either that or he has just now finished reading heinbloed's instructions on how to do it

DGOBS

ROFL