Length of ice axe shaft...

Anyone have an opinion on the correct length for ice axe shafts? Got a DMM Cirque last week from Jackson Sports, will only be using it for light scrambling around the Reeks come the snow and ice, heading up the gullies etc. Nothing too technical. Did a winter climbing course for a day last year so won't be attempting the Alps just yet. Anyway the shaft is 55cm, which means when held to the side it only reaches somewhere half way down the calf. I have seen some sites suggest this is perfect length and 55cm is always the way to go, it seems to be the new thinking, but a lot of the older threads and sites say it should reach to a pont around the ankle or just above the ground, presumably for it's use as a support stick when scrambling. Not sure whether to send it back and go for 65cm now. Any tips?

Mitch Buchannon

Firstly, You made a great purchace with the DMM Cirque. Its a great piece of kit.

I too have the 55cm Cirque. Common thinking is that 55cm is now the "sweet spot" when it comes to the shaft length. My axe when held in my hand is pretty much around the top of my boot so I personally think your cool with that length.

Im sure others will chime in soon with their opinions too. If you want a more difinitave answer I suggest you post this on UKC as there is a massive wealth of experience on that site.

I cant wait for the snow either.

Mickeroo

I think anywhere between 55cm and 60cm is grand. As long as it reaches the ground on your uphill side you're fine I think.

Sev

It basically depends on how steep the snow slope is.

On lower angled slopes, the longer shaft is useful because it's easier to use in "piolet canne" mode, without stooping.

However, on steep angled slopes, the 65cm shaft will be unwieldy and difficult to use in this plunge mode, the shorter axe also has a number of other advantages.

Personally I would go with the 55cm axe, for a number of reasons (in no particular order):

1) When self arresting the point (ferule) won't stick out so much, and is less likely to snag in a detrimental way
2) The shorter axe is lighter and more compact - looks neater when attached to your bag.
3) On steep slopes it's easier to plunge with the shorter axe.
4) if you go on to do more technical climbing you may decide to buy an ice tool (it's expensive to buy two outright), and you can pair it up with your 55cm walking/mountaineering axe to tackle steeper and more difficult routes that aren't quite steep ice climbs, but are still technical enough to require the use of two axes.

In short, for steeper and more technical climbing you want a shorter axe. A longer axe maybe helpful on lower angled snow slopes.

Thanks for all the tips and pointers.

Looks like this ones a keeper so!

That's crampons and ice axe sorted...now the boots...

Mickeroo

What kind of crampons you get?

Every year I've considered buying an axe and crampons but I never do and then the snow comes. I'm just so sure if I buy a set it'll end up being a mild winter like what we usually get

Mickeroo

Mickeroo wrote: »

What kind of crampons you get?

Grivel G12s.

Seemed like Grivel were the popular brand, guy selling them on climbing.ie second hand so paid 70 or 75. For the amount of use I'll get and as I'll just be a daytripper on the Reeks, going for the cheap and cheerful.

Sev

Deleted User wrote: »

Did a winter climbing course for a day last year so won't be attempting the Alps just yet.

There's plenty of big alpine peaks out there that require little more than basic ice axe and/or scrambling skills. However, what you won't get here, that you will get in the Alps, are glaciers - seracs and crevasses. But that's something you'll be prepared to deal with with a bit of common sense, some crevasse rescue training and some rope management skill.

I see no reason why you shouldn't be ready to take on at least a PD in the Alps next season with (hopefully) a little more snow practice this winter, more rope practice and a crevasse rescue course.

If howling ridge were in the Alps, it would probably go as AD+ (as a rock climb)