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Rear cassette

  • 29-10-2011 3:24pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,139 ✭✭✭


    I have a quick question a about the rear cassette on a road bike. I change to a new 9 sp today and I found that the lowest cog seemed to slip on me when putting load on the pedal, after inspecting (3 or 4 times) I noticed that the teeth on the lowest/smallest cog seem to have little purchase on the splines of the hub, it seems to rely more on the little teeth on the inside face of the locking nut (where the line is pointing to in the diagram) gripping against similar teeth on the face of the last cog, does this sound right?

    w7fknxhy.jpg

    Without access to a torque wrench I just tightened the crap out of it and seems to hold now, I'm wondering am I doing this right?

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭ashleey


    The inside of the sprocket should line up exactly with the splines of the hub. If there is 'play' then it has been put on wrong. Silly question, but have you definitely put it on the right way round, ie there is an inner face and outer face? You shouldn't be able to put it on the wrong way round as the large spline should line up with the large gap on the inside of the sprocket.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,139 ✭✭✭-Trek-


    I have them lined up correct, and all have good spaces between them. I have no worries there (I believe :D ).

    This image shows it a bit better, where as oppose to this image I seem have very little exposed spline left (just barely enough) when I go to put on the last cog. And seem to rely more on the locking nut and the cog gripping each other. Its probably silly what I'm asking, just want to be sure, maybe its meant to be a tight fit?

    Cassette.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,310 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Did u replace the chain also? A worn chain will slip on a new cassette.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭ashleey


    Your picture shows that you look to have put it all together properly. I would definitely look at your chain for stretch. A new chain is not too expensive. Consider one with a powerlink type connector for ease of removal and assembly. Wipperman connect or SRAM


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,139 ✭✭✭-Trek-


    That is not my image above (sorry, should have mentioned), No it was definitely the lower cog that was slipping (as in spinning around), like I said I tightened the hell out of it and now and it holds, went for a short test spin and seems fine, it just seems odd that it is relying more on the tightness of the lock nut than the splines on the hub to stop it from spinning around.

    I did also replace the chain, that was a whole other basket of hell that id rather forget about and chalk it down to inexperience :D.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 908 ✭✭✭coastwatch


    The last sprocket should engage the splines on the free hub, it might not look right before you fit the lockring, but tightening the lockring should press down the stack of sprockets so the outer one engages the splines. If it's slipping, it's not right, so better to dis-assamble and have another go. Clean all surfaces on sprockets and spacers and make sure the sprockets are the right way around, the side with the teeth number stamped should be facing out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    If those pics are not your own, here are a few things to check:
    Does the new cassette have the same number of speeds and number of teeth on the smallest sprocket as the old?
    Are you using the lockring that came with the new cassette? ( An 11 lockring is not the same as a 12 lockring.)
    Did you use a shimano lockring tool and chain whip to tighten it.
    Check that you haven't added a spacer on the inside of the largest or smaller sprockets.
    Ensure there are no foreign particles caught between the sprockets and spacers.


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