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Worn drop link

  • 28-10-2011 7:20pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭


    Car failed the NCT for a worn front o/s drop link (even though there isn't a peep from the suspension when driving :rolleyes:)

    I was going to get the local mechanic to do it but I see online the part is quite cheap. Is there much to changing them out? Any special tools required?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,425 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    What make is the car? This will identify how easy or not the job will be.

    You can buy spurious ones cheap but in my experience it's false economy unless you're intending to sell on the car. The rubbers give way in perhaps a year or less, allowing water and grit into the joint and very quickly you're back to replacing the droplinks again. The OEM ones tend to be much better quality and more durable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Avns1s wrote: »
    What make is the car? This will identify how easy or not the job will be.

    Honda Accord diesel


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,248 ✭✭✭Plug


    Most of the time they won't fail on a drop link unless the thing is hanging out of it. Does the fail sheet say drop link or suspension link? Did the NCT guy tell you it was the drop link? Maybe the thing snapped.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Plug wrote: »
    Most of the time they won't fail on a drop link unless the thing is hanging out of it. Does the fail sheet say drop link or suspension link? Did the NCT guy tell you it was the drop link? Maybe the thing snapped.

    Report says 'Anti-roll bar bushes and links', 'Worn', 'Offside Front'

    The word links is highlighted and the guy did say the drop link to me. I assume if it's snapped would have a dramatic effect on the steering?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,248 ✭✭✭Plug


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Report says 'Anti-roll bar bushes and links', 'Worn', 'Offside Front'

    The word links is highlighted and the guy did say the drop link to me. I assume if it's snapped would have a dramatic effect on the steering?
    Yeah if it snapped every time you turn the car it would roll. If its the link it should be straight forward enough job. He probably marked the link or bushes with tip-ex anyway.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Plug wrote: »
    Yeah if it snapped every time you turn the car it would roll. If its the link it should be straight forward enough job. He probably marked the link or bushes with tip-ex anyway.

    Is it just a couple of bolts holding it on? I saw an (american) video for drop link replacement but it involved used a hex key.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,425 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Is it just a couple of bolts holding it on? I saw an (american) video for drop link replacement but it involved used a hex key.

    Generally the allen (hex) key is used to stop the 'bolt' from turning while you undo the nut.

    Not sure about the honda but generally speaking changing is dead simple. Often times, access will be the problem. If you can get to it, then its an easy job. Spray an bit of WD40 on the old nuts a before you go undoing them and use a very sall screwdriver or a thin nail to scrape the muck out of where the allen key will go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Very good video on how to replace them here from Eric the car guy's website.

    By the looks of it rust is your only enemy for this job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    OK, I cheated a bit.

    I picked up the part (€17) on Saturday and there just happened to be a place beside the motor factors I visited that said they'd fit the drop link for €20 there and then. The chap there did say, however, that the anti roll bar does move when the link is removed and is difficult to get back into place. Is this correct? Old drop link was completely knackered BTW.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,425 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    If you just jack up the one wheel, the ARB will move and make the ball joint harder to get in place. Using a lift, there shouldn't be any problem or difficulty.

    Even with jacking up the one wheel, the key is to drop it down on something (safe!!) until the ball joint lines up. It's a very minor difficulty!.


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