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Water based paint

  • 26-10-2011 10:26pm
    #1
    sogood
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭


    I have used 'rattle cans' in the past when touching up paintwork on cars and even repairing larger sections. With time and effort and good prepping, the results were always very acceptable, often quite difficult to even notice. However, I have used a water based paint recently and find it runs and sags very easily, with very large 'orange peel' finish being quite obvious. It seems as though the paint must be applied in numerous, very fine mists, with sufficient drying time between coats, to achieve a decent finish. The old cellulose paints seemed to dry much quicker. Anybody and experience of same? Any thoughts/tips? Thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    robtri
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,473 ✭✭✭robtri


    the old stuff is much better for repair work...
    the new stuff in cans is horrible to work with


  • #3
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    ...we moved to new paint finishes last year, for commercial vehicles, using the 'new' paints..............now I know why you have to bake the paint at 70 degrees.........

    Once baked it's fine, but I can't see how you'd possibly use it, otherwise.......

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #4
    Owen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    You're getting orange peel using water based paints? How are you applying the paint to the panel? Are you covering it in a lacquer when you're done, or leaving the panel with just the base coat?


  • #5
    sogood
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Owen wrote: »
    You're getting orange peel using water based paints? How are you applying the paint to the panel? Are you covering it in a lacquer when you're done, or leaving the panel with just the base coat?

    Hi and thanks to those who responded. The paint, as is, is a water based paint with a clear top coat. I rubbed some surface rust on the bottom of a sill back to bare metal, feathered in the surrounding paintwork, keyed the surface, cleaned it all down with tack cloth and used a good quality primer. I applied the "finish" paint from a specially made up rattle can, to match the original. The first ( light) coat went on and immediatelly started to separate, forming rings, like very large/ magnified orange peel effect. I never had this problem in the past with cellulose paints, building it up in layers. The water based paint just seems too thin and runny! Maybe it's a bad mix? I was going to rub it back with ultra fine wet and dry and try again, nothing to lose. Any other thoughts?


  • #6
    Owen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    There's nothing wrong with the paint. You didn't degrease the panel properly.


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