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Repressurising a Baxi 35/80

  • 24-10-2011 12:16pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭


    After about 6 years the pressure gauge has dropped to about .1 bar.
    Section 6.4 in the manual tells me how to go about repressurising the system
    http://www.partsarena.com/baxi/System/DATA/Dx/DS1/installation/2680/I44-2680/I44-2680.htm#f3
    I got a hose ready with the correct connections, I closed the tap & I undid the endcap on Heating Return as shown.
    My problem is water keeps pissing out & I'm not sure when do I expect it to stop.
    I filled the dogs water bowl before I panicked & screwed back on the endcap.
    There's a downpipe connected after the tap so I presume that's where the water is coming from.
    Am I going about this the right way ?.


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭Rabidlamb


    Great news everyone, I know a few of you have been waiting on news of my progress :rolleyes:.
    I decided to horse on regardless, I undid the CH return endcap & let it pour out.
    I got about a litre then it stopped phew, must have just emptied whatever was in the boiler.
    We can all return to our lives now.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    WOW
    Why not open the filling loop in your hot press (most are found there) to top it up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    I hope you cleaned the filter when you removed the cap:)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭Rabidlamb


    DGOBS wrote: »
    WOW
    Why not open the filling loop in your hot press (most are found there) to top it up

    There was a single pipe coming down from the water tank in the attic that was teed off & ran uphill before it went down into the hotpress, it was dry :mad:.
    That pipe had an on/off valve in the hotpress & a PRV set to blow off at 3bar.

    In the end I connected a hose from the mains (washing machine cold outlet) to 1/2" male fitting on the CH return, just below the boiler.
    The mains pushed the pressure up to 2bar before I shut it off.
    I was an idiot however cause I hadn't bled the radiators first & they were full of air, couple had been turned off for years.
    Once I bled & reconnected my lovely 2 bar nearly all disappeared.
    Anyway I'll recharge again but the improvement is amazing.:D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭Rabidlamb


    JohnnieK wrote: »
    I hope you cleaned the filter when you removed the cap:)

    It was a 1/2" female endcap, no filter I could see, awkward place to get at anyway.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭Rabidlamb


    Originally Posted by DGOBS
    WOW
    Why not open the filling loop in your hot press (most are found there) to top it up
    Rabidlamb wrote: »
    There was a single pipe coming down from the water tank in the attic that was teed off & ran uphill before it went down into the hotpress, it was dry :mad:.
    That pipe had an on/off valve in the hotpress & a PRV set to blow off at 3bar.

    In the end I connected a hose from the mains (washing machine cold outlet) to 1/2" male fitting on the CH return, just below the boiler.
    The mains pushed the pressure up to 2bar before I shut it off.
    I was an idiot however cause I hadn't bled the radiators first & they were full of air, couple had been turned off for years.
    Once I bled & reconnected my lovely 2 bar nearly all disappeared.
    Anyway I'll recharge again but the improvement is amazing.:D

    Seriously embarrassed, I opened the filling loop in the hotpress tonight & hey presto, lovely running water.
    All the air in the radiators upstairs must have airlocked the pipe back up into the attic.
    If I'd tried the filling loop after bleeding & wouldn't have had to go through all the hassle connecting to the boiler.
    I hope we've all learned something here.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    My heating is working but pressure almost down to 0.5..

            Heating system: Baxi System 35/80 IE
            One water tanks in the attic.


        Does anyone know how to increase the pressure (if that will solve the jumping pressure). I do not have a connector pipe that I have read about in several posts to top up pressure and besides I cannot see anywhere that this connector pipe would connect too.
        I have found a number of screw valves in the hotpress, 2 coming down from the tanks in the attic and feeding to the hot tank (I think, hard to see) another 2 that feed away from the tank. One is slightly thinner than the other.
        There is also two (black) turn valves under the Baxi boiler one being boiler flow and the other being boiler return.

        So it seems very similar to above posts with 4 pipes in the hotpress - picture attached.

        The valves on all these 4 pipes seem to be open - all turned left as far as possible.

        There is another value on the floor as in picture - but this seems to be neither open or closed - half way between both.

        I looked at the tank in the attic - it is just one full tank..

        I was at this for 1 hour and could not increase the pressure - any ideas ? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    picture of hot press attached:406555.JPG


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    406562.JPG


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Hi Anybody know how to repressure ? Thks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    See the red round valve in the centre of the picture, nearest to the white valve.
    Can you follow this pipe up and say what it is connected to. Does it connect to the tank in the attic or to another pipe.
    Is there any other valves on the same pipe.
    What exactly is the problem that you are having with the boiler.
    Also, usually the boiler does not need to be turned up so high, turn it to about half way so that it stops at about 60 - 70.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    attached


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    attached


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    attached


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Can you follow this pipe up and say what it is connected to.

    As you can see from picture 021 - it is connected to a bigger pipe beside it, which feeds directly from the tank in the attic.

     Does it connect to the tank in the attic or to another pipe.

    another pipe.

    Is there any other valves on the same pipe.

    There is a valve below the connection.
    What exactly is the problem that you are having with the boiler.

    The boiler is working ok - but pressure is just coming up to 0.5 and even after bleeding one of the rads upstairs, it is still not heating, so I suspect this due to low pressure. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Ok,
    Your boiler seems to be set up and running on low pressure and most likely will not go much higher than 0.5 bar when hot, unless It develops a fault.
    It appears to be taking its water supply from a pipe from the water tank, not ideal because if the non- return valve fails it will allow water from your central heating to contaminate the water you wash with.
    To try rectify your rad issue.
    Turn off all the other radiators.
    Ensure that the valves at each end of the trouble rad are fully open.
    Turn the white control valve on the pipe to the left of the hot water cylinder to off "O" position.
    Turn on your heating system and see if you get a lot of air gurgling through the radiator.
    If it heats up, allow to run for 15 - 20 minutes.
    Turn back on other rads.
    Open white valve to 5.
    Then close the valve (clockwise) at the bottom of the cylinder (directly below the white valve) and re- open back out one full and a quarter rotation.
    See if that helps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    will try that - Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Hi I tried that but rad in box room upstairs still not heating. Any other ideas? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    harry999 wrote: »
    Hi I tried that but rad in box room upstairs still not heating. Any other ideas? Thanks

    Does this radiator have a Thermostatic Radiator Valve?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    No just a normal rad with two valves on each side...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    harry999 wrote: »
    No just a normal rad with two valves on each side...

    But are they normal valves or is one similar to the white valve to the side of the hot water cylinder?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Hi Just normal valves - on some of the other rads there is a valve similar to the one on the hot water cylinder


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Did you vent the rad?

    Are any of the pipes at the valves hot?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Yes I vented it - the pipe on the right of the rad seemed a lot hot at the bottom. I'm going to try it again today @ 6. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    harry999 wrote: »
    Yes I vented it - the pipe on the right of the rad seemed a lot hot at the bottom. I'm going to try it again today @ 6. Thanks

    Has to be a circulation problem so, are you sure both valves are open? Maybe one is stuck closed but the plastic valve cap is turning .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    I will double check at 6. Thks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Hi I tried that again and rad is now heating. Thanks very much


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    harry999 wrote: »
    Hi I tried that again and rad is now heating. Thanks very much

    Any idea which remedy worked?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Hi I'm not sure if it is fully solved yet.

    when all other rads on this morning, rad does not seem to heat or just heating a very slowly.

    One of the valve's on the rad is the bid valve, the same as in the hot press. This is opened fully... and the other valve on the rad is also opened fully.

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    But are they normal valves or is one similar to the white valve to the side of the hot water cylinder?
    harry999 wrote: »
    Hi Just normal valves - on some of the other rads there is a valve similar to the one on the hot water cylinder
    harry999 wrote: »
    One of the valve's on the rad is the bid valve, the same as in the hot press. This is opened fully... and the other valve on the rad is also opened fully.

    :confused: I asked this question and you gave a different answer.
    Can you take a picture of both valves on the radiator.
    If its the same as the white valve in the hot press, either the pin underneath is stuck or the valve handle needs replacing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭harry999


    Hi I cannot take a picture now but one side valve is the same as the hotpress one below and the other value is the normal small one. How do I know if pin stuck or the handle needs replacing ? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Below the handle of the larger valve you will see a chrome ring. By turning the ring anticlockwise until it is free you can then lift the valve head off with a bit of a wriggle.
    You will see the pin in the centre of the valve part still attached to the radiator.
    This pin should move up and down freely.
    If it doesn't, you need to grip it with a pliers and gently try to move it up and down to free it.
    If the pin is free then it most likely is the valve head. Holding the valve head in your hand you will see a pin inside where it connects with the valve, twisting the handle through the different settings, you should feel the pin inside moving up a down, if not, it needs to be replaced.
    You can leave it off the valve, which will allow the valve to operate fully on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Try not to pull the pin all the way out though ;)


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