Best Wheels & Tubes

Seve OB

So I got a puncture last week, my first one on the new bike! A 2011 Felt Z6.
Wasn't to bad, I was close enought to a shop I could walk to and he changed it over for me. 12 blips though, steep enough.

So he tried to flog me some fancy continental tyres at 35 sheets a piece, which had kevlar lining or something which prevent punctures. Anyone have any idea on these, are they worth it?

What are the best tyres for a road bike, day to day use. I put an average of 60-100k a week on them.

Also I learned a lesson here. Im going to stick a spare tube in my saddle bag so I can swap over if this happens again. Is this what the rest of you do? What is the best tube to get? Or is there a difference?

Khannie

stevieob wrote: »

Im going to stick a spare tube in my saddle bag so I can swap over if this happens again. Is this what the rest of you do? What is the best tube to get? Or is there a difference?

That's what I do. Spare tube + puncture repair kit + tools + pump. No difference in tubes really AFAIK.

cdaly_

Yep, the puncture resistant tyre is well worth having. There's a recent thread on the subject...

Paul Kiernan

The best tyre, bar none, is probably the Continental GP4000s (note the "s"!!). These are expensive (maybe €50 in LBS, €30 delivered online) but they offer a great combination of puncture protection, lightweight, good rolling resistance, durability and, most importantly, excellent grip wet and dry.

For normal, commuting type, use you should get them in 25c size. AFAIK the Z6 has 25c tyres as standard?

Also make sure you have a good track pump and keep them at the correct pressure.

Raam

stevieob wrote: »

Im going to stick a spare tube in my saddle bag so I can swap over if this happens again. Is this what the rest of you do?

Team car with my spare bike.

manwithaplan

I use GP4000S also. However, I wouldn't bother swapping over to them or anything else until you have got your money's (blips, sheets etc!) worth out of your existing tyres.

Paul Kiernan

Raam wrote: »

Team car with my spare bike.

It might make a good Lotto ad ......

Somebody trudging along the N11 bike path in the rain, dodging the buses and taxis, suddenly gets a puncture. Pulls in, waves, and a shiny team car arrives and gives him a new bike, then the caption appears...

"Play the Lotto, it could be you"

Seve OB

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

The best tyre, bar none, is probably the Continental GP4000s (note the "s"!!). These are expensive (maybe €50 in LBS, €30 delivered online) but they offer a great combination of puncture protection, lightweight, good rolling resistance, durability and, most importantly, excellent grip wet and dry.

For normal, commuting type, use you should get them in 25c size. AFAIK the Z6 has 25c tyres as standard?

Also make sure you have a good track pump and keep them at the correct pressure.

What makes the 4000S a better tyre than simply the 4000? I don't see much differrence on the website

Have the pump, but never really use it. Could have been part my problem, after I got my rear fixed, I checked fromt and it had gone down to 80psi, back to 120 now though

Yes 700 x 25c on the bike as standard. What does the 25c mean?

manwithaplan wrote: »

I use GP4000S also. However, I wouldn't bother swapping over to them or anything else until you have got your money's (blips, sheets etc!) worth out of your existing tyres.

Think you might be right here, will be on my wish list for next years birthday

Raam wrote: »

Team car with my spare bike.

PMSL, priceless

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

It might make a good Lotto ad ......

Somebody trudging along the N11 bike path in the rain, dodging the buses and taxis, suddenly gets a puncture. Pulls in, waves, and a shiny team car arrives and gives him a new bike, then the caption appears...

"Play the Lotto, it could be you"

Could be on a winner here. How about if you were on a tandum, with Sean Kelly doing all the riding, and Stephen Roche cycling beside you holding a brolly to protect you from the rain.

As for the team car, Nicolas Roche doing the driving, Martin Early changes your bike for you and Paul Kimmage has a nice packed lunch for you

DirkVoodoo

stevieob wrote: »

What makes the 4000S a better tyre than simply the 4000? I don't see much differrence on the website

Black chilli compound, or simply nanoparticles of soot that supposedly offer better traction in all conditions.

You need:

A track pump for home (effortless pumping to > 100 PSI)
A mini pump for the road (A good workout, grand for "get me home" scenarios)
At LEAST one spare tube
Tyre levers

Consider CO2, it's quick and the pump/cannister are easier to transport.

Leaving home without a tube is a game of russian roulette, always assume you will puncture.

EDIT: 700 x 25 means the wheel diameter (mm) and the tyre width (mm)...25 is good for commuting, rolling enough not to feel sluggish and wide enough to offer traction over wet manholes, painted lines, etc.

Paul Kiernan

stevieob wrote: »

What makes the 4000S a better tyre than simply the 4000? I don't see much differrence on the website

Have the pump, but never really use it. Could have been part my problem, after I got my rear fixed, I checked fromt and it had gone down to 80psi, back to 120 now though

Yes 700 x 25c on the bike as standard. What does the 25c mean?

The 4000s has the black chili rubber compound which is what gives the tyre it's big advantage over the competition. Now the 4000 in black has the same compound but I don't think it comes in 25c.

The 25c refers to the width of the tyre in mm. These tyres are also deeper so a 25c will have about 20% more air than a 23c. This means you can keep the pressure about 20% lower giving you far greater comfort, far more grip and reduced rolling resistance.

On the downside these tyres are 25g heavier each and the massively increased areodynamic profile will have an impact if you regularly commute at speeds greater than 120km/h.

Edit: Thanks, Dirk, I needn't have bothered!

Seve OB

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

Black chilli compound, or simply nanoparticles of soot that supposedly offer better traction in all conditions.

Yea but the 4000 also has the black chilli

http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20grand%20prix%204000.shtml

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

EDIT: 700 x 25 means the wheel diameter (mm) and the tyre width (mm)...25 is good for commuting, rolling enough not to feel sluggish and wide enough to offer traction over wet manholes, painted lines, etc.

I would imagine that the tyre width would fall in line with the wheels (or rims or whatever they are called) so if I wanted different width, I would have to get new wheels?

DirkVoodoo

stevieob wrote: »

I would imagine that the tyre width would fall in line with the wheels (or rims or whatever they are called) so if I wanted different width, I would have to get new wheels?

No, check your rim's specs online, typically a wheel will take a rang of tyre widths. The hooked rim catches the sidewall under pressure, which is what gives it the secure mounting you need.

For example, mavic recommend tyre widths of between 19 and 32mm for their aksium clinchers. In real world terms, this will depend on the clearance offered by your frame and brake calipers.

25 to 28mm for commuting is all you should need. I've been using 25mm gatorskins for over 2 years now (still the same pair, talk about value) and have only lost traction on wet luas tracks or very icy roads. A lot of it is down to adapting your riding style, the same goes for punctures: spotting glass and other debris early is key, don't ride into potholes, etc.

easygoing39

Im not surprised you got a flat running only 80 psi in your tyres!!Give yourself a chance,keep at least 110psi in them.

Pkiernan

There are about 15 of us over here in Arizona (from Ireland) who brought bikes over.

Everyone had been getting punctures every week from these "Goathead" thorns. They are everywhere here!



I went to puncture resistant tubes (8x thicker than std.) and Kevlar linings ($8 each).

Most of the others went to one or the other.

Those of us who are using the linings haven't got a puncture since. If you can get them back home, you won't be disappointed. As good as puncture proof!

tomasrojo

stevieob wrote: »

So I got a puncture last week, my first one on the new bike! A 2011 Felt Z6.
Wasn't to bad, I was close enought to a shop I could walk to and he changed it over for me. 12 blips though, steep enough.

So he tried to flog me some fancy continental tyres at 35 sheets a piece, which had kevlar lining or something which prevent punctures. Anyone have any idea on these, are they worth it?

Maude Lebowski: If you successfully do so, I will compensate you to the tune of 10 percent of the recovered sum.
The Dude: [stunned] A hundred...
Maude Lebowski: Thousand, yes bones or clams or whatever you call them.

.