Subframe protection

johnos1984

I'm just looking for some tips

I've been told before I park my MGF up in the shed for the winter that I should paint the front subframe as it's looking a bit rough.

Nothing bad yet, it's go surface rust but nothing worse than that.

The plan is to jack the car up, support it using axle stands and get in under with a wire brush and clean it all up and then paint it with black hammerite.

Anything else needed or does that all sound ok?

johnos1984

bump

gn3dr

If you are going to teh bother I wouldn;t use Hammerite - use more car specific products like POR15 or something from teh Dinitrol range. Start with a rust neutraliser before painting.

Oh and wear safety glasses - the full ones that protect the complete eye socket - I know from experience that the basic ones aren't enough when you are under a car scrapingoff ****e

v300

Pull the subframe and get it cleaned and electrostatically powered coated ?

Job done for easily 10 years.

MK 1 1300E

Rust bullet have a product that is black and it is brillant I would recomend it for that job. Gives a beautiful finish as well

wildefalcon

Lots of good options there.

Don't use hammerite - it is too hard, and will crack when the subframe flexes (Oh, yes it does). Water will enter through the cracks and rot the frame from the inside out. I've been there with an old chassis = not pretty.

If you are looking for inexpensive, and are not too bothered about cosmetics, then wirebrush the rust away back to cleanish metal(using whatever safety procedures your own personal risk assessment judged necessary). A drill powered wirebrush, or an angle grinder powered one, make the job tolerable.

Next, apply jenolite or other similar rust converter (phosphoric acid) to the cleanish metal, allow to work, wirebrush again and then apply "Lowe Rost" which is a red or grey coal-tar based paint.

It's made in Bray and is one of the best rust stoppers out there - it's used on trawlers and by farmers. It drys to a matt finish - and should get two coats. I don't quite trust the coloured versions that are gloss, perhaps avoid them.

Finally, if you are really concerned about the rust, apply "waxoyl" to the little holes and difficult to access parts. You might get the black version and apply it to the rest of the subframe while you are at it. And all the exposed metal fittings, like the brake nipples, the exhaust hanger weldings, and that sort of thing. Avoid the rubber parts as it doesn't do them much good.

Horrid stuff, waxoyl, burn clothes afterward!

It can be difficult to apply, too, so I usually heat it up and thin it with white spirit. Don't get the "super sprayer" as it's crap. Either get a spray can, or get a schutz gun and canister.

Or paint it on with a long handle paintbrush. There are generic versions - they are just as good.

Don't use hammerite - it's really only any good for big cast iron things.

Oh, and well done for taking the steps to save one of these brilliant cars. Full respect to you.

johnos1984

Thanks for all the advice folks.

I made some purchases just there..........but can't for the life of me remember what it was I just bought.

NO HAMMERITE THOUGH so no worries on that front.

I'll write up a list of everything later on for those interested and if you all behave yourselves (and I remember) I'll take some snaps of the work and put them up for a nice HOW TO guide.

BTW, I contacted my safety first brother in law for all the health and safety equipment.

johnos1984

wildefalcon wrote: »

Oh, and well done for taking the steps to save one of these brilliant cars. Full respect to you.

All going well it will be a keeper.

I've always loved them, far from perfect and always providing me with something to do but loads of fun when I'm driving it.

Bangernomics purchase being saved and treated like a baby.

Lucky car........sadly my bank statements don't agree

I doubt it will ever be worth much but with it's gas suspension it will become a rare oddity as the years roll by

wildefalcon

I presume you are up to speed on the cooling system care, and have taken steps to preserve the brake pipes.

Best of luck with the car, nice one!

johnos1984

wildefalcon wrote: »

I presume you are up to speed on the cooling system care, and have taken steps to preserve the brake pipes.

The cooling system was replaced by the previous owner and the rad looks ok. The most important part which causes many HGF's and which is rarely replaced has been replaced............ a new expansion tank cap believe it or not.

I'd be interested in your suggestions on the brake pipes. They seemed fine when
it was up on a ramp.

wildefalcon

johnos1984 wrote: »

The cooling system was replaced by the previous owner and the rad looks ok. The most important part which causes many HGF's and which is rarely replaced has been replaced............ a new expansion tank cap believe it or not.

I'd be interested in your suggestions on the brake pipes. They seemed fine when
it was up on a ramp.

Well, that's great news! The head gasket should be safe enough if you watch the levels and change coolant every odd year.

As for the brake pipes all I'd do is paint waxoil onto them - all the way along - and all the fittings etc. Avoid the rubber hoses etc.

Ditto the gas hydraulic systems - do they have pipes between front and back?

G.

johnos1984

Yep but I believe the advice is to just leave them be.

Thanks for all that

johnos1984

Just to update the rust primer is a product called LOWE Rust Primer in grey and the metal paint is called Douglas Matt Black Paint.

I've to apply 2 coats of LOWE and as many as I want of the paint.

Both are about 500ml cans which I reckon is enough

They tin of Lowe claims there is no need to apply a rust hardener first.

As the rust is only surface I don't think there is any need to go apply much more than that. I may be wrong in which case I'll let you all know in about 5 years

wildefalcon

Make sure you get the rust off, and you should be fine, - top up with a brush application of waxoil every autumn, which reminds me, I must get the chassis on the landrover (30 years old this year) powerwashed.................

Arthur Daley

I read somewhere that Dinitrol is better than waxoyl these days.

Anyway, i've to get this done but have no real desire to do the job myself, so after hunting around I found this crowd up in Lisburn, who I intend getting a quote from later in the year: http://www.surecleanvaleting.com/cleaning.html

I was a bit surprised how few people if any are advertising underbody restoration/repair. With all the classics around, imports from the salty roads of Britian and people running their cars longer now we're back to tighter times I would think there's a lot of demand for this service.

Fishtits

Pull them out, strip, send them off and get them powder coated.

End of problem forever.

fishtits, mini restrorer par excellence (learned hard lessons along the way)

johnos1984

Actually i got good enough access to it. Some patience was required but I got the worst of it done ok.

I then removed the seats to check the floor............now I've got the interior stripped out.

Surface rust found in all the common areas but it looks like I got to it just in time so it's not all bad I suppose


Horrible rust