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Nitromors-white residue question

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  • 05-10-2011 2:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 25


    Hi,
    Could someone please give me advice on the following. I've posted this in DIY section also...

    I've used Nitromors varnish stripper on a teak sideboard to remove the dark varnish on it. I followed the instructions but what looks like a 'white residue' was left behind. When I wipe it down with methylated spirits or white spirits, it goes away and I can see the natural wood but then the 'white residue appearance' comes back when it dries!

    Anyone any ideas on what I did wrong or what I can do to fix it? Don't want to go near the rest of the sideboard with nitromors until I can sort it out.

    Thank you.


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Any pics.

    Did you get any advice on the diy forum. There is a guy over there who is very knowledgeable on finishes on timber.

    I think its madm, but its a while since I posted there.

    kadman


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 mongolianyurt


    Front sideboard (1).jpg

    Picture of sideboard


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,385 ✭✭✭cardwizzard


    Have you tried to give it a light sand yet?


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    Is the timber damp or in a damp place?


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 mongolianyurt


    Have given it a light sand but some bits of white are still down in the grain. So it is better than what it was...do I need to sand it down further to git rid of all those white bits before I put a new finish on it?

    Its out in a shed but it is dry and not really damp.

    Here's a picture of the top of it. Thanks for everyones advice so far.

    Top sideboard.jpg


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  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    Teak contains natural oils - my guess (for what it's worth) is that the Nitromors has pulled out and reacted with these oils. If the wood or the environment is damp at all, - and humidity has been very high lately - then that reaction could continue. Sanding should get rid of the substance if the wood is dry. The action of sanding itself should help to dry the surface of the wood.
    You should probably also use a tack cloth to pick up the white stuff from the grain after sanding.


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 mongolianyurt


    So do you think I should continue using the Nitromors or should I try another way of getting rid of the varnish? Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    So do you think I should continue using the Nitromors or should I try another way of getting rid of the varnish? Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
    If I was doing it, I would be incline to use a heat gun and scraper. Problem with Nitromors is that you have to use water to neutralise it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 mongolianyurt


    slowburner wrote: »
    If I was doing it, I would be incline to use a heat gun and scraper. Problem with Nitromors is that you have to use water to neutralise it.

    Any recommendations on a heat gun to buy? Nitormors is expensive so I figure it will work out the same in the end! Use plastic scraper I take it/old credit card?
    Nitromors is neutralised with meth spirits....


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    Any recommendations on a heat gun to buy? Nitormors is expensive so I figure it will work out the same in the end! Use plastic scraper I take it/old credit card?
    Nitromors is neutralised with meth spirits....
    The German supermarkets have them from time to time and they're actually pretty good and useful things to have around too. I think most power tool manufacturers sell their own branded version. You pays your money etc.

    A sharp steel scraper would be better. Practice on a piece of scrap wood first to get the feel of how scraping with the grain leaves a faultless finish and how scraping against the grain can tear lumps out of the wood. With a sharp scraper, and the varnish well softened by the heat gun, very little pressure will be necessary.

    Nitromors is not something I use (too expensive and messy for me), I didn't know it is neutralised with meths - that's a right old chemical cocktail going on there.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,390 ✭✭✭dathi


    i,ll jump back in to this one now that i have seen the pics, was following it on other tread the white marks are where you have not removed all of the previous nitrocellulose finish with the nitromors . apply the nitromors again to the part you have striped and then use wire wool to rub it off . continue rubbing until the wood is dry changing to fresh wire wool if necessary . then with clean wire wool wipe the surface down with the meths to neutralize the nitromors again rubbing untill it is dry. make sure you rub the wire wool with the grain or else it will mark the wood. also you should not stop in the middle like you have done with the top as you run the risk of leaving a tide mark between the two halves . a cabinet scraper as previously advised is a good way of removing the bulk of the finish before final striping with nitromors .


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 mongolianyurt


    Yeahhhh so I've now moved onto using a heat gun....it was pretty quick and less annoying than the nitromors until a blister came up when I used it on a patch. There was I thinking this sideboard was solid teak! So I take it a blister means its a veneer? Can I still sand a veneer after I'm finished? Why, oh why don't I walk into a shop and buy a first hand piece of furniture!!:D


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    Yeahhhh so I've now moved onto using a heat gun....it was pretty quick and less annoying than the nitromors until a blister came up when I used it on a patch. There was I thinking this sideboard was solid teak! So I take it a blister means its a veneer? Can I still sand a veneer after I'm finished? Why, oh why don't I walk into a shop and buy a first hand piece of furniture!!:D
    Sand very carefully and evenly, the veneer might only be a couple of mill thick.
    Much more satisfying to look at a piece of furniture you have restored yourself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 mongolianyurt


    So eventually finished the sideboard!!!!!!!! Thanks everyone for your help. Couple of ahem imperfections but I'm happy with it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    So eventually finished the sideboard!!!!!!!! Thanks everyone for your help. Couple of ahem imperfections but I'm happy with it!

    Nice job


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    Looks great.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    Well done. That took a lot of work. I was going to suggest it might have been plaster of paris which was used under a french polish but that unit is from the 1960's ?
    In general chemical strippers are a pain to use and unpredictable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,390 ✭✭✭dathi


    well done its good to give new life to a piece of furniture


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 garden fairy


    hi all,
    first time on here, or any forum!

    I have been searching for some pointers online and came across this forum and hope I can find the guidance that I need.
    I have got my hands on a beautiful sideboard which I have dreams about giving new life to, I really don't want to buy new mass produced furniture anymore, this sideboard was loved before and I want to return it to its former glory and give it a place in my home.
    This is my first endeavour of this kind, I have some pictures attached, I think it is veneer/ chipboard underneath?, not really sure,
    was hoping to sand it back a bit and varnish fresh, I don't want to chalk paint or anything like that.
    any advice as to where to start
    there are varnish strippers, should i go for this?
    might be a while getting pics up,be patient


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