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Suitable material for a baseboard

  • 04-10-2011 9:54pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,156 ✭✭✭


    Another noob enquiry.

    The Hornby manual recommends using Sundeala when constructing a baseboard.

    Does anyone in this forum have experience of (a) using Sundeala, (b) sourcing this material in Ireland or elsewhere, and/or (c) using another material?

    I understand Sundeala's main advantage is the ease of inserting and removing pins, as well as being light and easy to cut/handle etc.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,537 ✭✭✭✭Cookie_Monster


    do not use it. A read of the railway forums out there will generally advise against it as being to soft and liable to warping etc.

    I'm currently in the process of building my own boards. Have gone for 12mm ply supported by a frame of 2x3 inch timber, a number of poster recommended it as the best option.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 15,788 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tabnabs


    Be aware that MDF looks like a good alternative, but is not great for your health when you go cutting it (http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/1997/sep/21/antonybarnett.theobserver).

    Ply is your best bet. I used 9mm with a sub frame (45mm x 19mm I think) and it's rock solid. If you have it in a reasonably warm & dry environment then you won't need to seal the boards.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,156 ✭✭✭Iwannahurl


    Hornby seem to recommend pinning the track. Also, since my son is on the young side and has yet to learn proper handling of his set, I want the track to remain in place. We've already had an incident or two with fishplates.

    IYO is pinning necessary or desirable, and if so how to keep the track in place on plywood? I'm assuming that removal of the pins/repositioning of the track may be necessary from time to time.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 15,788 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tabnabs


    If it's permanent than pinning it in place is probably a wise idea, stops tracks coming apart and derailing your trains. Another option is to use something like Copydex glue (get it cheaper in Woodies) and and fix the track that way. Perhaps a diluted glue to fix "temporarily" if you're sure it will be pulled up again fairly soon?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,537 ✭✭✭✭Cookie_Monster


    Track pins into ply should be fine. That's my plan anyway but glued with ballast also, might not be a great idea for kids though (the ballasting)

    if you plan on changing the track layout it makes more sense than glueing it down...


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,156 ✭✭✭Iwannahurl


    Went for the 9mm MDF option today (cost and convenience).

    1800 x 1200 suddenly looks a whole lot bigger!

    Now considering a hinged design to make under-bed storage easier, though I'm not sure what effect that might have on track laying. I hope the little blighter appreciates all this effort in due course...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,171 ✭✭✭syboit


    Iwannahurl wrote: »
    Went for the 9mm MDF option today (cost and convenience).

    1800 x 1200 suddenly looks a whole lot bigger!

    Now considering a hinged design to make under-bed storage easier, though I'm not sure what effect that might have on track laying. I hope the little blighter appreciates all this effort in due course...


    would you mind telling me the differences in prices ? I've just setup a new layout and would also like to put it on a board.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,156 ✭✭✭Iwannahurl


    In B&Q, IIRC, 9mm plywood around €28, MDF about a tenner less for the same size sheet (2240mm, I think).

    Cutting was free.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,537 ✭✭✭✭Cookie_Monster


    Here's mine for samples:

    2011-10-04162440.jpg
    2011-10-10124748.jpg
    2011-10-10190733.jpg

    12mm ply on a frame of 2x3 inch timber.


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