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basic know how advice

  • 01-10-2011 9:50pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 43


    i just put a deposit down on a second hand .22 brno .it's my first gun(licence pending) and I haven't a clue how to operate or maintane it,I've done the safety course but i was just wondering if anyone could recommend
    a book or owners manual or any thing that could get me up to speed.
    thanks for any help


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    i just put a deposite down on a second hand cz .22 brno .it's my first gun(licence pending) and I haven't a clue how to operate or maintane it,I've done the safety course but i was just wondering if anyone could recommend
    a book or owners manual or any thing that could get me up to speed.
    thanks for any help

    www.youtube.com

    just search for .22 cleaning and you'll find loads of videos.
    Different people have preferred cleaning techniques. .22 doesnt have to have as thorough a cleaning as often as centrefire rifles.

    As for opertaing it did you not learn that at the safety course? Not so hard to operate it. again search it on youtube. videos are much easier to follow than books


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    safety course was just a hour and mostly shotgun based,no rifle was present,no shots were fired! it was a power point presentation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 480 ✭✭ssl


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    safety course was just a hour and mostly shotgun based,no rifle was present,no shots were fired! it was a power point presentation.

    That sounds like a very poor course.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    i just put a deposite down on a second hand cz .22 brno .it's my first gun(licence pending) and I haven't a clue how to operate or maintane it,I've done the safety course but i was just wondering if anyone could recommend
    a book or owners manual or any thing that could get me up to speed.
    thanks for any help

    First things first, here's a link to the Ten Commandments of Gun Safety on the Remington website, you can click on each link for further information:

    http://www.remington.com/~/link.aspx?_id=5B6EB408A13E4DE5960FD674D7459CAC&_z=z

    A lot of people, myself included, would be of the opinion not to clean the bore (the inside of the barrel) of a .22lr unless accuracy goes off. I know my previous .22lr much preferred to shoot with a dirty than clean barrel.

    But, keep the outside of the barrel consistently finely oiled. "Blueing" will go south very quickly when exposed to certain conditions like being put away wet (bad idea). Certain people will have "rusty fingers" meaning that there will be marks left on the blueing from the oils on the persons hands if the gun isn't wiped down with an oily cloth after handling. Another thing, particularly for where I live is salty conditions like shooting near the sea.

    If the gun is coming home dry, from a dry day or night out, then a quick wipe down with a lightly oiled cloth will do the job.

    If the gun is coming home wet, you need to take a lot more time drying the gun completely, then carefully wiping all the metal parts with your oily cloth. That often means removing the bipod and sling, making sure the sling studs are done, making sure ALL of the parts of the bipod are done, remove the bolt, dry it, wipe it. Hopefully you will have a free floating barrel under which you can get something like a J cloth, first one dry to remove any moisture, next one oily to protect the metal... The list goes on!

    The thing is to dry out the entire rifle as best as you can. The coat all of the metal parts in a fine coating of oil, definitely not dripping with oil, an oily cloth/rag is sufficient.

    Give the crown a wipe too, that's the area of the end of the barrel where the bullet exits the barrel. A very important part of your rifle.

    If you have a moderator... Always, always remove the mod from your rifle to store it. Wipe the threads on the barrel and mod clean, then you can apply a tiny bit of something like copper grease. Again, dry and finely/very lightly oiled is what you're looking for.

    My guns have come home so wet at times that the only thing I can do is to stand the gun on it's muzzle on something like an old towel and let it drip dry for an hour before attacking it with drying and oiling cloths. It's never not worth it, because once it rusts.........................

    Inside your safe you can get all kinds of aids which help drying. Light bulbs, silica gel, dehumidifiers, and VP 90 sachets which are supposed to help combat corrosion.

    That's a small bit on cleaning for ya. Though safety comes before everything else.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    Consider me educated!when you say oily rag what oil? wd40 or a specific gun oil and if so could you recommend one. Thanks alot for the info,gold dust for a beginner like me.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    I use Rem Oil (made by Remington, hence the name) now, before that I used Kentron which was an oil with a detergent in it. You'll find plenty of good firearm oils in any decent gun shop or online.

    Don't use WD40 to protect your gun, it's for displacing moisture and freeing up locked nuts and things like that rather than rust prevention IMO.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 506 ✭✭✭moby30


    Great advice there john. Best of luck with the new gun Tadgh have the same gun and can guarantee you'll have years of enjoyment out of it. This is a great site to get advice And answers from - Im picking tips and stuff up all the time myself. Happy hunting.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    thanks John,
    Always used wd40 for rust prevention on power tools and motorbike etc. but can't beat specific knowledge, thats what's so good about this site, where else would have i found that out!! rem oil it is! thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    hey lads ,
    since your there,whats the best way to find rabbits? just applied for licence and have permission from 2 farmers and i've seen the odd rabbit around their farms.is it just a matter of getting up for dawn and walking around till you spot something or is there more to it?if this is a very stupid question i appologise!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    hey lads ,
    since your there,whats the best way to find rabbits? just applied for licence and have permission from 2 farmers and i've seen the odd rabbit around their farms.is it just a matter of getting up for dawn and walking around till you spot something or is there more to it?if this is a very stupid question i appologise!

    been quiet and keep to the ditches.Never walk out in the middle of the field. before you go into the next field check along the ditch at both sides of the gate. Some days there's nothing around. On a sunny day you may find them out sitting in the fields not paying much attention. when they drop their heads and stay still they're probably on to you. stay really still.

    Lamping is another handy way of spotting them easily.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    So the first thing you'll need to do once you get the rifle home is to mount the scope. I find it an intolerably boring process for my own rifles so go do a search, it's been on here a good bit :D

    After that's done you'll be thinking of shooting it, but you have to zero it first.

    Now, never point a rifle at anything you don't want dead. Guns kill stuff and things can happen quickly so never, ever take a risk or your eye off what you're doing.

    A couple of things you might need at this point would be:

    A safe place to zero the rifle, either on a range or in a field with a good solid backstop away from houses, animals etc. The backstop is an important thing as it "soaks up" any bullets that pass through or miss your target. Never fire at any target or animal that doesn't have a backstop behind it.

    A target board that you can stick solidly into the ground in front of your solid backstop.

    At this point an A4 page with an inch black circle on it will do as your target, oh and a way of attaching it to your board, thumb tacks work well in all weather.

    I use a bipod on my rifles to steady them up for prone (laying down) shooting. For zeroing I would also use something under the butt of the rifle, at the moment that's an old sock with polypropelene (spelling) beads in it, but a rolled up cap or jumper will do. All this is to steady the rifle.

    Set up your target at 25 yards, what we're trying to achieve here is only to "get on paper".

    To align the bore of the rifle and the crosshairs of the scope, (as best you can, don't touch the rifle at all during this process as it works much better when it's kept still) remove the rifle bolt, look down the bore and as best you can centre the black target dot in the centre of the bore.

    Adjust the windage and elevation of your scope to bring the crosshairs onto that black dot target. Look through the bore and sight again, if you're happy that the dot is as centered as you can get it in both we're set for the next step....

    Safety on. Load your magazine. Bolt in, and chamber your first round.

    Carefully and steadily aim for that black dot target. Release the safety and when you're ready, fire.

    Safety on again.

    You can now measure how far that shot is from the center of your black dot target. There will be measurements on your scope turrets which are usually 1/4 inch movements at 100 yards. Which in turn (if I get this basic bit right :o ) will be 1/2 inch at 200 yards.

    But, we're at 25 yards, so each click on a 1/4 click scope will be 1/16 of an inch.

    If you're two inches low of your target and three inches to the right, you'd need to wind 32 click up, and 48 clicks to the left to get closer to the centre of your target.

    Shoot again, and see where that shot has gone. If you're inside your black dot then move your target out to your desired zero range, that may be 50 or 60 yards and fire three shots.

    From the center of that three shot group you can again measure how far left, right or above or below you are of the center of your black dot target and again adjust your scope to bring your Point of Impact to the center of that black dot, your Point of Aim.

    There is a simpler "three shot method" of zeroing which you really should look up as it's better that the way I've described, I'm just being lazy.

    When you have all that done............

    IMO, it is a good idea to place your target at intervals of 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 and 100 yards. Without adjusting your scope from it's zero point (50 or 60 yards or whatever) shoot three shots at your target aiming for the center of your black dot each time. Don't compensate for the different ranges, just aim for the center of that dot.

    What this does is it will tell you how much above or below your Line of Sight that your Point of Impact will be.

    Write it all down, record the distance above or below of the center of your three shot groups from the center of the black dot.

    Now you have a handy drop reference for that particular ammunition.

    (I'm sure this could all have been explained a lot simpler and better but there you have it).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    another safety tip is if you put a round in the chamber to fire and the rabbit runs away is, pull the bolt up. this will add extra safety. So for the gun to ire by accident the bolt will have to close, the safety come off and the trigger has to get pulled. Also never turn the safety off until you are about to take the shot and always switch it back on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    i don't know if that could have been explained any better, it made perfect sence to me . i hate to admit it but there's alot more to this shooting lark than i thought. looking forward to it!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    i don't know if that could have been explained any better, it made perfect sence to me . i hate to admit it but there's alot more to this shooting lark than i thought. looking forward to it!

    Learning is the best part.
    Start off slowly.
    Zero at say 40 yards and practice at that range.
    Use some paper targets rabbit sized to test your zero, zeroing is that term used to describe the ability to know where you should hit from where you centre the reticle on.

    When zero'ing use the same brand of ammo, from the same box and shoot at the same point of aim.
    Zero'ing "should" be no more than 5-10 shots max.
    If you are not on paper with your first shot go closer to the target, remove the bolt; with the rifle rested, look down the bore.
    (On most rifles there is a bolt release catch on the left of the bolt or underneath it.
    A spring loaded switch that when depressed the bolt can slide fully out.
    Then look down the bore of the barrel from the end you removed the bolt from)
    If you can see the target you should be almost on it.
    There are many videos on rifle zero'ing on youtube.
    Larry Potterfield from MidwayUSA does some very good tutorials.

    rabbit shooting is easier in areas where very little people shoot, every rabbit you miss will tell his mates to avoid you :D
    So I shoot less, if there may be a miss on the cards let them off, as they will be less afraid the next time and give you that extra 1/2 second;)

    It's a very addictive sport, I have been doing it for over a decade and love it more and more each year.
    So much so that I constantly go into debt buying ammo and equipment :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 861 ✭✭✭session savage


    Where you based tadhg11? A bit of 1 on 1 with someone will help get you up to speed quicker and give you a bit of confidence that your doing it right.
    Im with you on what you said about the safety courses. They are Pretty crap for a lad looking for a rifle.
    I was just like you starting out, I spent the first year learning new questions ha ha. The only bad part for me was that the more I learn, the more I realize I need better/more stuff :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    i'm in laois area, A friend of mine says he'll show me whats what when i get my licence but i'm just trying to get up to speed as much as possible while i'm impatiently waiting for my licence!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 861 ✭✭✭session savage


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    i'm in laois area, A friend of mine says he'll show me whats what when i get my licence but i'm just trying to get up to speed as much as possible while i'm impatiently waiting for my licence!

    Ha I know the feeling. Getting pissed off with the postman every day he doesn't bring the license. There's a good book called sporting rifles by Bruce Potts should feed your desire while your waiting.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 43 tadhg11


    thanks pal. will do


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 460 ✭✭milkerman


    I like the Bruno/CZ .22 rifle. Good quality, basic rifle based on a proven action. The safety is good by locking the firing pin as opposed to simply blocking the trigger mechanism. It is odd however, the safety is pushed forward to be safe and pulled backwards to fire - most other rifles safeties work the opposite way.

    Golden Rule; ALWAYS keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. When I hunt with my CZ I keep a loaded magazine in the gun but NEVER chamber a round until the barrel is lined up for the shot. It only takes a half second to close the bolt & chamber the bullet. The rest of the time I carry the rifle with my thumb in the action on top of the magazine and blocking the bolt. The safety is good, but I trust my thumb and an empty chamber more!
    When you are going and returning from shooting carry the bolt & mag in your pocket - not in the rifle.
    If yours is like the rest of the CZ .22's it will work really well with Lapua subsonic, Eley subsonic very good too.
    Best of luck with your rifle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    tadhg11 wrote: »
    i'm in laois area, A friend of mine says he'll show me whats what when i get my licence but i'm just trying to get up to speed as much as possible while i'm impatiently waiting for my licence!

    im only waiting 2 weeks and it feels like 2 months.
    keep watching videos on youtube and you'll pick up tips


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,777 ✭✭✭meathstevie


    In addition to John's very good practical explanation of zeroing here's a different method.

    After having mounted your scope and having boresighted your rifle set your target at around 25m for a .22 rimfire. Do exactly what John told you to keep things steady and fire a group of five shots ( that'll give you a more accurate group than 3 shots ) and draw a circle capturing all the holes. Go back to your rifle and adjust your scope to the center of the circle you've drawn. Repeat the process at around 50 to 60m which will give you a good zero with a .22 rimfire.

    To keep your rifle steady you can't beat something you can clamp it into like a little mobile workbench.

    If you're using a centerfire rifle for deer or foxes extend the distance for your second group of shots. How far depends on the conditions on the land you hunt.


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