BMW - 5 Series Warning Lights

shaydy

Hi Folks,
The brake pad warning lights came on in the car a couple of weeks ago so I scheduled it in for a service at the end of the week. Today another two lights came on, ABS and the Traction Control lights - any idea if this is linked?

here's a pic

Cheers

INEEDANID

Speed sensor

Have same lights on mYself on my E39 520

Blazer

The traction light means that it's turned off. Try pushing the DTC button and see if it goes away otherwise get it looked at..
Does it feel any different? You should feel a bit difference driving the car with dtc/dsc disabled..

Fey!

That could be related to a faulty ABS sensor.

I don't think that that is your traction control light; traction control on an e39 is normally an orange triangle in a circle IIRC.

EDIT; I just saw INEEDANIDs post, and he may well be right. Your user manual should give you a good idea.

As for Sc@recrows post, traction on/off in dry conditions doesn't really feel any different in a 5 series unless your throwing it around hard.

INEEDANID

iF THE SPEED SENSOR IS FAULTY IT AUTOMATICALLY TURNS OFF THE TRACTION CONTROL AND ABS. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS VERY BUSY!

shaydy

Thanks Folks (especially INEEDANID). Any idea how much to replace this sensor and if it's an easy job?

Edit: Just found this on bimmerforum

Replacement of Wheel Speed Sensor
E39 BMW
Synopsis: A malfunctioning wheel speed sensor can cause the anti-lock braking and traction control systems to become disabled, among other things.

Symptoms: Three lights appear simultaneously on the dashboard: ABS, an amber BRAKE, and the triangular "traction lost" icon. Traction control is not operational, nor is antilock braking. One or more of the speedometer, odometer, or cruise control might also be inoperable.

Tools required: Multimeter capable of testing diodes. 5 mm Allen wrench. Long, very narrow probes for multimeter, or equivalent. For rear sensors, a 10 mm socket, 8 mm socket, flat-head screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers might be required to remove trim.

Difficulty: Easy

Diagnosis: A BMW service computer can isolate the source of the problem; standard OBDII code readers cannot pull the requisite information. The Peake Research code reader seems to be capable of reporting whether or not a problem exists, but there do not appear to be any codes that reveal the location of the faulty sensor. If a wheel speed sensor is suspected, and no computer is available, the identification process is one of trial and error. Jack up you car and support appropriately. Access to the sensor is considerably easier with the wheel removed, so pick a corner and remove the wheel.

It is worth noting that certain failure modes are associated with particular corners of the car. If the speedometer and odometer do not work, the driver's side rear sensor is probably bad. If the speedometer works but the cruise control does not, then the passenger side rear senor is probably bad.

Locate the sensor (mounted on the wheel carrier near the hub) and trace its wire back to a blue connector. The connector might be housed in a black plastic box. Open the hinged box if it is present. There might be a second connector next to the blue speed sensor connector; that's for the brake pad wear sensor. Pull the blue speed sensor connector out of the box and disconnect the two sides.

Deep inside the sensor side of the connector, there are two metal prongs. Now comes the tricky part. Turn the mutimeter on and to its diode testing setting (it looks like an arrow with a line in front of it). Connect one probe to one of the prongs, and the other probe to the other prong. The meter should read ~1.4-1.8 V or indicate an "open" condition (e.g., "OL"). Reverse the probes. Once again, the meter should indicate either an open condition or a 1.4-1.8 V drop, but the result should be whichever one you didn't see the first time. If you see any other result, such as 600 mV in each direction or 0.0 V in either direction, you've probably found the bad sensor; congratulations! Note that a 0.0 V drop is possibly indicative of a poor test setup; verify that you are not shorting the multimeter probes. If the sensor tests out okay, try again at a different wheel. Of course, it's always possible that one of your speed sensors has failed in a way that wouldn't present itself in this test. In the worst case, you'd have to go to the dealer anyway for the diagnosis.

You might want to try another wheel even if you think you found the bad sensor in order to confirm that your technique is good. It's sometimes a bit tricky to get a good connection to those prongs. If you think you found two bad sensors, you probably messed up.

Be sure to reconnect all of the sensors that you believe are good. Once you have identified the faulty sensor, obtain a replacement BMW part. One sensor on my 540i was $120; I've read reports of them retailing for as little as $70.

Other possible causes: Reports indicate that the cause of the sensor failure might be a frayed wheel-speed sensor wire in the wheel well; inspect the entire visible run of the cable carefully to confirm the lack of frayed or pinched wires. If frayed wires are found, attempt repair using common wire-repair techniques. Other reports indicate that a bad ABS controller might cause similar symptoms.

Replacement: With the wheel off at the corner with the broken sensor, and the sensor cable disconnected, unsnap the sensor wire from the two mount points on the steering knuckle. Follow the cable to the point where it ends at the sensor. The sensor is attached to the car with one or two small bolts. A 5mm Allen wrench is required to remove the bolts. You might have to do this blind, but it's not that hard. After the bolts are removed, gently pull the sensor straight out of its hole. Put the new sensor where the old one was, and reverse the removal process. There were two bolts holding my old front sensor, but the new front sensor included only one mounting hole. Due to the sensor construction, I don't believe it is a problem to use only one bolt. Be sure to hook the new sensor back to the other connector, and don't forget to snap the cable into the cable brackets.

Commentary: I have had two speed sensors fail on my 1999 540i. The first time, a front sensor failed. The DSC, ABS, and brake warning lights were be off when the car was first started but would turn on after driving a couple hundred feet. A year later, a rear sensor failed. The same three lights shone at startup and never reset. The Peake reader indicated code 0F 78. I was able to use the above procedure both times to successfully locate the failed sensor.

INEEDANID

http://cgi.ebay.ie/Front-ABS-Speed-Sensor-34526756375-BMW-E39-5-Series-/370545544376?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56463c4cb8#ht_1273wt_905

It will have to be plugged in to find which one is gone.

I was quoted about €100 for the job and part

shaydy

INEEDANID wrote: »

http://cgi.ebay.ie/Front-ABS-Speed-Sensor-34526756375-BMW-E39-5-Series-/370545544376?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56463c4cb8#ht_1273wt_905

It will have to be plugged in to find which one is gone.

I was quoted about €100 for the job and part

Super, appreciate that.

Rang Joe Duffys out of interest, €42 for the part and €130 to fit:eek:

BavarianCare

shaydy wrote: »

INEEDANID wrote: »

http://cgi.ebay.ie/Front-ABS-Speed-Sensor-34526756375-BMW-E39-5-Series-/370545544376?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56463c4cb8#ht_1273wt_905

It will have to be plugged in to find which one is gone.

I was quoted about €100 for the job and part

Super, appreciate that.

Rang Joe Duffys out of interest, €42 for the part and €130 to fit:eek:

€42 for the part?!?!
A genuine E39 sensor??
That can't be right...

Kind Regards,
Eddie.

AndrewBond

Why not, BMW genuine parts sometimes are surprisingly cheap (sometimes cheaper than aftermarket parts). Always worth to give a call to dealer's parts department

AndrewBond

Its hardly worth the hassle to crawl around the car testing all the ABS sensors, these days you can have it plugged in and diagnosed for €30 and less. Then just check one sensor that shown faulty (don't rely on computer test only!)

shaydy

BMWcare wrote: »

€42 for the part?!?!
A genuine E39 sensor??
That can't be right...

Kind Regards,
Eddie.

Sorry Eddie only seeing this now - Yes thats what they quoted for a speed sensor.

Had it looked at, in my case it might be the control unit rather than the speed sensor. I'm getting a second opinion on it as control units are pricey.

Anyone any recomendations for sourcing control units at a decent price?

Cheers

unkel

shaydy wrote: »

Anyone any recomendations for sourcing control units at a decent price?

They can be refurbished. It will make them better than new ones for a lot less. Matt Simis knows a place in the UK that do it very reasonably. PM him.

Did they ABS / traction light just come on today and stayed on? It's more likely it's a sensor. If it is intermittent at first then it is more likely the control unit. I hope your car is with people who know how to do the diagnostics properly?

dekbhoy

shaydy wrote: »

Sorry Eddie only seeing this now - Yes thats what they quoted for a speed sensor.

Had it looked at, in my case it might be the control unit rather than the speed sensor. I'm getting a second opinion on it as control units are pricey.

Anyone any recomendations for sourcing control units at a decent price?

Cheers

i had the same problem , you will need a new ,used or refurbished ABS unit , i bought a second hand one from a guy in walkinstown for 130 euro. the one you are replacing it with MUST be from the exact model that your car is or else it wont work, simple to replace yourself .

jhegarty

Could it be the battery ?

My 3 series lost ABS and Traction Control when the battery started to run down after the alternator went.

shaydy

Thanks for all the help and suggestions - genuiely appreciate it

I'm going to get a loan of another control unit and drive it for a couple of days to see if thats the problem, doesnt appear to be a speed sensor and havent had any mention of an abs unit. i'll take it from there then.

Cheers

INEEDANID

My E39 2002 520 2.2 Petrol has been left into the garage today.

Had the same problems, ABS Light and Traction Control Light coming on after driving a few miles.

Should be the sensor.

Will keep you posted how I get on?

shaydy

INEEDANID wrote: »

My E39 2002 520 2.2 Petrol has been left into the garage today.

Had the same problems, ABS Light and Traction Control Light coming on after driving a few miles.

Should be the sensor.

Will keep you posted how I get on?

Yeah do, I'll be interested to hear how you get on. Mine's a very similar car 525i E39 2002

INEEDANID

shaydy wrote: »

Yeah do, I'll be interested to hear how you get on. Mine's a very similar car 525i E39 2002

So my 2 front speed sensors showed up on the diagnostics. Have 2 second hands ones fitted now and am waiting on the mechanic to plug it back in to see is the fault corrected.

Got my tracking done too.

Should be about €150 all in I think which im pleased about.

shaydy

I put in another ABS control unit and that fixed mine so i've sent mine off to ECU Testing in the UK to refurbish it £190 all in.

Thanks to you All for you help

INEEDANID

My two front speed sensors were replaced but the problem didnt go away.

Getting the abs control unit replaced today from an identical car same year engine etc so will post back what happens.

It may need to be recoded too though.

shaydy

INEEDANID wrote: »

My two front speed sensors were replaced but the problem didnt go away.

Getting the abs control unit replaced today from an identical car same year engine etc so will post back what happens.

It may need to be recoded too though.

Did you buy the abs unit new? Or just happen to know someone with one...

INEEDANID

shaydy wrote: »

Did you buy the abs unit new? Or just happen to know someone with one...

I was lucky as the garage I use had a crashed 520 of the same year, same engine and manual too.

The abs unit was swapped yesterday. The whole lot of it not just the electronic part.

Lights all gone now and car is driving sweet again.

Cost was €150 in total as the guy is sound.

He had a good saying too that "you can shear a sheep many times but you can only skin a sheep once"

shaydy

INEEDANID wrote: »

I was lucky as the garage I use had a crashed 520 of the same year, same engine and manual too.

The abs unit was swapped yesterday. The whole lot of it not just the electronic part.

Lights all gone now and car is driving sweet again.

Cost was €150 in total as the guy is sound.

He had a good saying too that "you can shear a sheep many times but you can only skin a sheep once"

Nice one

Piri

I have the same problem. Diagnostic said left front wheelspeed sensor not working.
Two front sensors replaced. Light still on. ECU replaced ligh wont go off. Main hidro unit replaced No change ...:mad:

INEEDANID

Did you get the ABS control unit box recoded to your car?

It needs to be done if its a new part. It doesnt if it comes secondhand from same model/engine as your own.