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Occupancy Sensors?

  • 26-09-2011 7:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,359 ✭✭✭


    A friend of mine is doing a new build at the moment and his electrician has installed occupancy sensors to control lights in the upstairs landing, all toilets/bathrooms (with a high-up the wall on/off switch for the extractor fans) and in the utility room and also in the ground floor main entrance and corridor.

    There is also no override on these circuits (as in no wall mounted light switches) so the occupancy sensors do all the light switching in those areas... and the occupancy sensors are the low profile 360 ceiling mounted ones.

    I think this is a brilliant idea and you could save many the euro over a lifetime.

    I would love to retro fit this in my main bathroom and hallway as the kids are constantly leaving the lights on in the bathroom and hall during the night after getting up to go and also in my back door utility room area - another area that is constantly left on.

    The wiring side of things with me is fine... no problems there... but i would like to know a few things on these occupancy sensors if possible...

    If i was to retro fit these...

    What brand to get - is there a particular one that beats all? - What price should i be paying?

    Where to mount typically? - What 'on timed' period to typically set?

    Should i replace switches with blanking plates or face seal the wall switch box and plaster over? - what is typically done if retro fitting?

    Any other factors i should plan for?

    Thanks for any info.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,340 CMod ✭✭✭✭Davy


    Their is ones for retro fitting like this that can be swapped for switches, but I cant remember the brand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,359 ✭✭✭Access


    I spotted them... but i would prefer the ceiling mounted low profile ones... and i dont mind a bit of ceiling cutting and wiring above in the attic etc. - that wouldn't bother me as i would prefer to do it right.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    You can prob fit key switches to replace standard light switches


    dunno if pirs only wpuld comply with rules-id be surprised


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Why dont you fit LED bulbs,if you want to save on utility bills.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    hager do flush and surface occupancy detectors, we sell a lot of the b.e.g luxomat type, they, like steinel come in all shapes and sizes including a wall mounted version the size of a single size plate.
    personally if i was to fit these in my house id leave the switch in place and my preferance would be to replace the switch with a secret key switch, the fish key type which i think is the same one mcebee mentioned above
    the reason being that if they get switched on and off by mistake with a normal switch, they can go into a test/set up mode and can be a nuisence.
    the one thing about these sensors ive noticed is, the smaller and neater they get the more exspensive they get.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 19 Energysavers.ie


    The ones we use are CP Electronics they are fit and forget.
    They offer wall or ceiling mounted passive infra red or microwave detection solutions. All with the added saving of lux hold off. So if there is enough light in the area and the detector holds off the lights.
    I would use a flush mounted IP rated detector in the bathroom ( 2 channel version Ie: channel 1 for the light using lux hold off and channel 2 for the fan always on upon presence) approx €40
    A flush mounted ceiling detector on the landing well positioned as you want to detect someone coming up the stairs. Approx €30
    For the utility A simple wall mounted (no neutral) detector in place of the light switch works well. ( also with lux hold off ) approx € 25
    Corridors depending on length/ entrances and exits, I would suggest proably two basic pirs wired in parallel. A typical detector give you a 7 mt detection pattern at standard ceiling height.
    These can all be wired auto on / auto off ( presence) but if your family are used to switches they can be wired with a ptm switch so it's manual on / auto off (absence).
    Oh and a good rule of thumb is 20 mins timing for most lamp types.
    I hope this helps.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    That 2 channel sounds like a good idea

    ylud have delay off wth a standard fan too


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    That 2 channel sounds like a good idea

    ylud have delay off wth a standard fan too


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭PrismES


    I have used the CP electronic PIR's before, they offer a lot of features and are very reliable.
    Some advice don't buy the cheapest PIR's as they will give no end of trouble.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,359 ✭✭✭Access


    Would key switches normally be used for this purpose though in this way? - would they not look weird in a house to have key switches in place?

    If anyone on here has done a retro fit like this... what did you do with the existing wall switch or what would you recommend?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭indie armada


    this is the key switch im refering to, its a modular type and can be fitted to a single or a multi gang plate. when installed on a single gang plate in place of a standard switch, it kinda looks like a blank plate with two little holes in it.

    http://www.qvsdirect.com/images/P/t_19964_med.jpg


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