[email protected] wrote: »
In fairness to the chap this is the airsoft section so it makes sense to have stickies like this for the new players.
I started playing about 2 years ago and there was nothing like this around...would have been great if it was as you tend to take more heed of people's views if they're from the same country as you...and by that I mean as they have experience of the same weather as you, so they'll know if a TM PX4 works good in Ireland in the winter as opposed to reading a review from a guy in the US who says that it rocks and forgets to mention it's 35c where he is.
Same for lipo batteries, when I started out everyone here was slating lipo and saying they were unreliable, as a result I went back to nimh, but after reading more reviews I switched back and glad I did...even people who were very anti-lipo was surprised at how light they were, how easy to charge to them (as in safe) and that the rof was pretty close to what they were using anyway. I've converted a few people to lipo now at this stage.
So maybe instead of giving out to the chap, share your experiences or butt out
Firekitten wrote: »
Hangon.... you're saying you're going to ignore things said, or go against them, simply because someone is from a different country?
That sir, is racism.
[email protected] wrote: »
.would have been great if it was as you tend to take more heed of people's views if they're from the same country as you...and by that I mean as they have experience of the same weather as you, so they'll know if a TM PX4 works good in Ireland in the winter as opposed to reading a review from a guy in the US who says that it rocks and forgets to mention it's 35c where he is.
NakedDex wrote: »
You'd swear 11.1V packs were portable nuclear fission reactors, the way some people think of them.
Right, here's the breakdown.
8.4V/9.6V NiCd packs perform exactly the same way as NiMH packs. The difference, for all intents and purposes, is the charge rate. The NiMH packs are designed to rapid charge, so a five hour charge becomes a thirty minute charge.
There are slight differences in discharge rate too, but it's insignificant.
The NiCd can only trickle-current charge and the NiMH can only high-current charge. This doesn't stop uncaring fools using rapid chargers on NiCD packs, and slow chargers on NiMH packs of course, but that's their own problem.
LiPo packs are in use in far more devices than NiMH or NiCD. They're cheaper (to make, not necessarily to buy), lighter and provide more power relative to size. They're not as abhorrently fragile and prone to spontaneous and catastrophic explosion as some people portray. If they were, every drunken idiot with a phone would have third degree burns by now as it's the battery pack of choice for all digital electronics (alongside Li-ion for bigger applications).
In airsoft, they also behave in virtually the same way as any other power pack option. A three-cell pack provides 7.4V and a four-cell pack provides 11.1V. Due to the ability to provide much higher current flow, the smaller 7.4V pack operates like a fully charged 8.4V conventional cell pack (not a 9.6V, that wouldn't calculate sensibly).
The 11.1V pack provides less current than the 7.4V, due to the increased nominal voltage (y'see, it's about power, not current or voltage...). As such, there's less current on the cable so it's actually safer.
Put in a MOSFET controller and it's down to mA of activation current on the trigger, and regulated flow to the motor - safer again. Now swap the wiring to the motor for a slightly higher gauge (silver wire in an airsoft application is the silliest thing I've ever heard as a supposed selling point, but it's the mugs who think it's great without understanding that I find amusing), something like 16/14AWG copper with a silicon insulation - higher gauge with lower current and better insulation means we've become even safer.
While we're at it, let's change the battery connectors for low-resistance ones, like Deans connectors - lower resistance means less heat generated at the connection points, which makes us yet safer again.
So while a LiPo user pulls the trigger on his/her AEG and sends about 20mA through the trigger, down large CSA wiring with improved connectors to send a clean and regulated flow of power to the motor, the NiCd/NiMH user - that's you - sends a spike current of about 35-55A (depending on the pack and gearbox) across small trigger contacts, down a small cable directly to the motor.
In effect, LiPo is the much safer and more controlled option, even on 11.1V. Whether the gears/piston wear faster is entirely up to whether you play with the trigger taped on and the fire selector welded to Auto, or whether you're willing to make a few minor changes to your rifle to allow it to happen.
Not to generalise, but the majority of LiPo users actually choose LiPo because they fire on semi most of the time and couple the pack with high torque motors and MOSFETs to enhance trigger response. It's the numpties with Stubby Killers and/or boxmags who are going to wear down gearboxes.
In short, it's not the pack that determines your rifle's life span, it's your method of using it and how good the parts were in the first place (in the case of APS: rubbish... just to drag this on topic).