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Help Needed: Filling a cavity and insulation of crawlspace questions.

  • 07-09-2011 9:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 109 ✭✭


    Hi folks,
    I'm hoping some of you can advise me here, as I'm new to this.

    The room circled in red in the plans (pic 1 & 2) is significantly colder than the
    rest of the house.
    With winter approacing I want to rectify this.
    I investigated the crawl-space/attic over this room today.
    There is 100mm fibreglass insulation between the joists (pic 3)
    There is 100mm insulation wrapped around the velux window plasterboard boxing to the
    room below (pic 4ab)
    There is an open cavity (pic 5) between the walls of family room and the (unheated) store & utility - shown as a blue line in the plan (pic 2)

    What is the best way to proceed with making this room warmer?
    I assume this cavity can/should be filled? Can I do this myself? If so, what
    material should be used and where can I get it?
    Any other tips on improving the insulation greatly appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    Start by filling the cavity and adding another 200mm of quilt in the attic space. In this case the cavity could be pumped but it will probably need to have a closer fitted, in this case a WBP plywood closer would work best.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 109 ✭✭pathogan2008


    Thanks for you reply Poor Uncle Tom.

    What material should be used to fill this cavity?
    would Warmfill bonded bead type material be ok?

    I'm not too familiar with cavity closers.
    Are these the ones? Can they be picked up in any builders providers?

    http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/cavity-closers-33-c.asp

    What is the purpose of the closer? Would I then run the 300mm quilt over the closer?

    As for the Velux skylight box, should I just increase the insulation on this to 300mm also? Is there a better way to improve heat loss here. I always felt that this was one of the problems losing heat in the room.

    Thanks, PH.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    What material should be used to fill this cavity?
    would Warmfill bonded bead type material be ok?
    Yes, any pumped bead would do.
    I'm not too familiar with cavity closers.
    Are these the ones? Can they be picked up in any builders providers?

    http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/cavity-closers-33-c.asp
    Those are propriety cavity closers. A DIY version would be just as good. A strip of WBP plywood steel nailed to the blocks would do the job and shouldn't be anywhere near as expensive.
    What is the purpose of the closer?
    It is presumed that the pumped bead would be under some pressure while being pumped. If the cavity is not closed the pumped bead will not be under any pressure and may not travel to fill all areas of the cavity.
    Would I then run the 300mm quilt over the closer?
    Yes.
    As for the Velux skylight box, should I just increase the insulation on this to 300mm also?
    Yes.
    Is there a better way to improve heat loss here. I always felt that this was one of the problems losing heat in the room.
    Apart from removing the roof window and reinstating the flat ceiling, there isn't too much you can do apart from upping the surrounding insulations.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Thanks for you reply Poor Uncle Tom.

    What material should be used to fill this cavity?
    would Warmfill bonded bead type material be ok?

    I'm not too familiar with cavity closers.
    Are these the ones? Can they be picked up in any builders providers?

    http://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/cavity-closers-33-c.asp

    What is the purpose of the closer? Would I then run the 300mm quilt over the closer?

    As for the Velux skylight box, should I just increase the insulation on this to 300mm also? Is there a better way to improve heat loss here. I always felt that this was one of the problems losing heat in the room.

    Thanks, PH.

    Remember, heat loss through conduction (which good insulation addresses) is only half the heat loss story. Don't forget about good air tightness and ventilation. A simple air tightness test may help a lot in determining other major heat loss mechanisms.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 109 ✭✭pathogan2008


    Thanks MicktheMan, Poor Uncle Tom,

    My plan is to install the cavity closer, and fill the cavity with bonded bead.

    When adding the new 200mm quilt, should I lay it parallel on top of the existing 100mm, or perpindicular across it, covering the joists?

    Also MicktheMan, how would one go about doing a simple air tightness test?
    (Sorry, I'm new to this?)

    PH


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Also MicktheMan, how would one go about doing a simple air tightness test?
    (Sorry, I'm new to this?)

    PH

    The simplest (diy) test to do is to check for air movement around all juctions, fittings etc on a v windy day. By junctions, I mean wall to floor/ceiling, around all windows/external doors, around lights, sockets, where pipes etc enter the house from f.i. the attic, floor boards etc. a lit candle/cigerette can be used to check (with the obvious safety precautions taken).
    Pros: cheap, can do yourself
    Cons: lack of experience, inconsistant wind pressures on different sides of the house can give misleading results.

    The professional way is to temporarily erect a large calibrated fan in the doorway and pressurise/depressurise the house and check/quantify leakage using various tools from trace smoke sticks to high resolution thermal imaging equipment. Also, the experience of the tester is v important in order to quantify & prioritise the findings and offer suitable recommendations taking building physics into account.
    Hope this helps:)


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