Prevent Heating costs before the winter arrives.

Marcanthony

I would advice all ...
To turn their central heating on now (and leave running for an hour or two) and check for faults before the cold winter spells occur. Due to the fact your heating has been off for most of the winter problems may have occured either electrically or mechanically.

AVOID EXPENSIVE CALL OUT CHARGES AND THE COLD NIGHTS.

If you have problems.Post your problems on this thread and Ill do my best to help you solve them .I can guarantee all responses will be replyed to almost immediatley. (24hr free service advice center back up from either myself or one of the other lads in our office via this thread).Need further info in relation to the free 24hr advice center or what company we are. Send a message and I will give you that info.

Chocolate

We have some sort of overflow pipe on the wall outside our back door. I believe it's from the hot water tank upstairs. Up until May 2011 water used to drip from this pipe when we'd turn on the boiler and over the last few years it has left a green streak down the wall.

However, one day in May a deluge flowed from the pipe. It was like a tap flowing at full strength. After adjusting one or two dials/ levers (sorry, I neither know their name nor their function) in the hot press we are now left with the situation where this pipe drips constantly. It fills a 10 litre bucket every day. I use it to water the plants.

Any ideas what to do? It would be great to be able to sort this without having to call out a plumber. Although I think I'm just delaying the inevitable.

Marcanthony

Chocolate wrote: »

We have some sort of overflow pipe on the wall outside our back door. I believe it's from the hot water tank upstairs. Up until May 2011 water used to drip from this pipe when we'd turn on the boiler and over the last few years it has left a green streak down the wall.

However, one day in May a deluge flowed from the pipe. It was like a tap flowing at full strength. After adjusting one or two dials/ levers (sorry, I neither know their name nor their function) in the hot press we are now left with the situation where this pipe drips constantly. It fills a 10 litre bucket every day. I use it to water the plants.

Any ideas what to do? It would be great to be able to sort this without having to call out a plumber. Although I think I'm just delaying the inevitable.

is your system indirect (feed from the attic tank) or direct that feeds your hot water cylinder?

However I think from your post that it is a direct feed to the hot water cylinder (direct) and the blow off valve is releasing excess pressure via an overflow pipe.(Instead of an expansion pipe (indirect) you would have this blow off valve fitted to the cylinder.)

Chocolate

Sorry you're talking to a complete novice here. Direct/ Indirect? I don't know. We have a tank in the attic. (Doesn't everyone?) As for whether one feeds the other, I don't know.

I'll take some photos of hot press and post them shortly. Thanks

Marcanthony

Chocolate wrote: »

Sorry you're talking to a complete novice here. Direct/ Indirect? I don't know. We have a tank in the attic. (Doesn't everyone?) As for whether one feeds the other, I don't know.

I'll take some photos of hot press and post them shortly. Thanks

that would be best as i need to know if its direct or indirect and that the overflow is coming from that cylinder.

Chocolate

Okay here goes...

Marcanthony

Chocolate wrote: »

Okay here goes...

Its an unvented indirect cylinder that is connected to a pumped supply of water. Its either a faulty blow off valve or to much presure in the cylinder creating expansion or a faulty saftey valve.
JUST NOTICED IN YOUR HOPRESS PICTURE THE PRESSURE IS 3 BAR.THATS YOUR PROBLEM.THAT NEEDS TO BE REDUCED TO 2 BAR.

Chocolate

That's not something we can do at this time of night. Running the hot taps in our house sets off the pump in the attic which makes an unmerciful racket and wakes our 1 year old. We'll have a go in daylight hours when minds are fresher and we're not afraid of waking the kids!

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Marcanthony

in picture 6273.Between the red wheel valve and the gauge there is a fitting with a grey head.on the top of the grey head is a flat head screw.turn this anti clockwise to reduce the pressure.run the hot tap after you adjust and the gauge will give the new pressure. you want a pressure of approx 2bar. JOB DONE AND YOUR CV CAN BE UPDATED.

AND BY THE WAY.HAVE A LOOK AT THAT PUMP IN THE ATTIC. SEND ME A PHOTO AND ILL ADVICE ON HOW TO MITIGATE THE RACKET SO YOU CAN USE THE TAPS AND NOT WAKE UP THE KIDS.

JohnnieK

You might want to check your expansion vessel on your un-vented cylinder, also the discharge pipe should not be routed over your back door.

Marcanthony

JohnnieK wrote: »

You might want to check your expansion vessel on your un-vented cylinder, also the discharge pipe should not be routed over your back door.

DID YOU LOOK AT THE PRESSURE IN THE PHOTO IT IS A LITTLE OVER 3 BAR.
HOWEVER I AGREE THE DISCHARGE SHOULD NOT BE DIRECTLY OVER THE BACK DOOR. IT SHOULD BE SOME WHERE IT IS VISIBLE BUT WILL NOT CAUSE A HAZZARD.

Skidrow

Hi, hope you can help me this.
Baxi Solo 3 PFL 60 - pressure guage reads 0.2 bar when system is off. Goes up to 0.6 when system is on. How do I re-pressurise get it above 1.0 bar ? Any help appreciated.

Marcanthony

Skidrow wrote: »

Hi, hope you can help me this.
Baxi Solo 3 PFL 60 - pressure guage reads 0.2 bar when system is off. Goes up to 0.6 when system is on. How do I re-pressurise get it above 1.0 bar ? Any help appreciated.

THE PRESSURE FLUXUATES WHEN THE HEATING IS ON. IF YOUR SYSTEM IS PRESSURISED IT SHOULD BE SET AT 1.5 BAR WHEN SYSTEM IS OFF/COLD.IS YOUR SYSTEM SEALED?
HOWEVER COULD BE SEMI SEALED OR OPEN VENTED.NEED TO IDENTIFY THIS FIRST.
SORRY DID NOT NOTICE MAKE OF BOILER. THEY ARE FOR SEALED SYSTEM. YOU NEED TO TOP THE SYSTEM UP TO 1.5 BAR WITH THE FILLER LOOP.WHEN SYSTEM IS OFF/COLD.
PICTURE 6273 IN PREVIOS POST SHOWS A BLACK KNOB ON A SILVER HOSE. THATS WHAT A FILLER LOOP USUALLY LOOKS LIKE.

Marcanthony

Marcanthony wrote: »

DID YOU LOOK AT THE PRESSURE IN THE PHOTO IT IS A LITTLE OVER 3 BAR.
.

It over 3 bar because it's the cold water feed for the cylinder and not the pipework for the heating system.

Skidrow

Marcanthony wrote: »

THE PRESSURE FLUXUATES WHEN THE HEATING IS ON. IF YOUR SYSTEM IS PRESSURISED IT SHOULD BE SET AT 1.5 BAR WHEN SYSTEM IS OFF/COLD.IS YOUR SYSTEM SEALED?
HOWEVER COULD BE SEMI SEALED OR OPEN VENTED.NEED TO IDENTIFY THIS FIRST.
SORRY DID NOT NOTICE MAKE OF BOILER. THEY ARE FOR SEALED SYSTEM. YOU NEED TO TOP THE SYSTEM UP TO 1.5 BAR WITH THE FILLER LOOP.WHEN SYSTEM IS OFF/COLD.

Where will I find the filler loop ? photo attached any help?

Marcanthony

Skidrow wrote: »

Where will I find the filler loop ?

IT COULD BE AT THE BOILER OR IN THE HOTPRESS.

JohnnieK

Usually in the hotpress. It might be a half inch pipe coming down from the attic with a valve and none return valve (a brass cylindrical fitting) From my experience Solo's are normally fitted to semi-sealed or open systems. A picture of the hotpress would be helpful.

Skidrow

photo attached

Baxi solo

Marcanthony

gary71 wrote: »

It over 3 bar because it's the cold water feed for the cylinder and not the pipework for the heating system.

stupit comment.....................


I HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS OVER THE YEARS AND IF THE PRESSURE IS SET AT 2 BAR AND THE CYLINDER STATS AROUND 70 DEGREES THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED. ITS A COMBINATION OF TO MUCH PRESSURE OF HEATING AND FILLING THE SYSTEM.

THE PIPWORK IS GETTING A FEED OF OVER 3 BAR TO THE HOT SUPPLIES (TAPS ECT). UNLESS THERES RESTRICTIONS FOR THE HOT WATER OUTLETS.AND THE PRV I TOLD THE OP TO ADJUST IS THE ONLY RESTRICTION OF PRESSURE UNLESS OTHERS ARE FITTED AFTER THE FEED FROM THE TOP OF THE CYLINDER.LOOK AT PHOTOS AND CORRECT MYSELF IF I AM INCORRECT.

ALSO OP STATES ITS A CONSTANT DRIP .THAT MEANS ONLY 2 THINGS 1 THE PRESSURE TO THE CYLINDER IS TO HIGH OR 2 THE SAFTY VALVE IS FAULTY


HORSES FOR COURSES

Marcanthony

Skidrow wrote: »

photo attached

YOU HAVE 2 RED VALVES BETWEEN A FITTING CALLED A NON RETURN VALVE. NOT TO SURE WHY 2 ARE FITTED. MUST BE BECAUSE 1 IS PASSING WATER. SEE ARE BOTH CLOSED. TURN TO THE RIGHT.AND THEY SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO TURN.NOT REALLY THE BEST VALVE TO HAVE IF THE SYSTEM IS PRESSURISED.

paddy147

Do I need to fit a lagging jacket around my water tank in the attic?

The house is fully insulated (to the hilt in fact) and both attics are spray foamed too.

Do I need to lag the water tank then???

Thanks.

Skidrow

Marcanthony wrote: »

YOU HAVE 2 RED VALVES BETWEEN A FITTING CALLED A NON RETURN VALVE. NOT TO SURE WHY 2 ARE FITTED. MUST BE BECAUSE 1 IS PASSING WATER. SEE ARE BOTH CLOSED. TURN TO THE RIGHT.AND THEY SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO TURN.NOT REALLY THE BEST VALVE TO HAVE IF THE SYSTEM IS PRESSURISED.

both will turn both directions.

Marcanthony

Skidrow wrote: »

both will turn both directions.

DO YOU MEAN BOTH WILL TURN TO THE RIGHT WITH OUT RESTRICTION.YOU CAN TURN THEM TO THE RIGHT OR YOU CANT.

Skidrow

both freely will turn to the right and to the left - they seem to be half way.

Marcanthony

paddy147 wrote: »

Do I need to fit a lagging jacket around my water tank in the attic?

The house is fully insulated (to the hilt in fact) and both attics are spray foamed too.

Do I need to lag the water tank then???

Thanks.

IT WOULD GIVE YOU EXTRA PROTECTION.IT WOULD BE INSULATING THE APPLIANCE DIRECTLY.IT WOULD BE EXTRA PIECE OF MIND FOR YOU.THE LAST TWO WINTERS I HAVE SEEN ATTICS INSULATED AS WELL AS YOURS WITH BURST PIPES.
I WOULD PUT TANK LIDS ON COVERING THEM TANKS.

paddy147

Marcanthony wrote: »

IT WOULD GIVE YOU EXTRA PROTECTION.IT WOULD BE INSULATING THE APPLIANCE DIRECTLY.IT WOULD BE EXTRA PIECE OF MIND FOR YOU.THE LAST TWO WINTERS I HAVE SEEN ATTICS INSULATED AS WELL AS YOURS WITH BURST PIPES.
I WOULD PUT TANK LIDS ON COVERING THEM TANKS.

Thanks for the advice.

Both the large main tank and the small tank have lids on them.:)

Marcanthony

Skidrow wrote: »

both freely will turn to the right and to the left - they seem to be half way.

YOUR SYSTEM IS SEMI SEALED AND YOU DONT NEED TO TOP IT UP. IT TOPS ITS SELF UP WITH A GRAVITY FEED. HAVE A LOOK IT TO PRESURISING THE SYSTEM.ITS MORE EFFICENT.

Marcanthony

Marcanthony wrote: »

stupit comment.....................


I HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS OVER THE YEARS AND IF THE PRESSURE IS SET AT 2 BAR AND THE CYLINDER STATS AROUND 70 DEGREES THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED. ITS A COMBINATION OF TO MUCH PRESSURE OF HEATING AND FILLING THE SYSTEM.

THE PIPWORK IS GETTING A FEED OF OVER 3 BAR TO THE HOT SUPPLIES (TAPS ECT). UNLESS THERES RESTRICTIONS FOR THE HOT WATER OUTLETS.AND THE PRV I TOLD THE OP TO ADJUST IS THE ONLY RESTRICTION OF PRESSURE UNLESS OTHERS ARE FITTED AFTER THE FEED FROM THE TOP OF THE CYLINDER.LOOK AT PHOTOS AND CORRECT MYSELF IF I AM INCORRECT.


ALSO OP STATES ITS A CONSTANT DRIP .THAT MEANS ONLY 2 THINGS 1 THE PRESSURE TO THE CYLINDER IS TO HIGH OR 2 THE SAFTY VALVE IS FAULTY


HORSES FOR COURSES

Unvented cylinders are designed to work with a incoming pressure of 3 to 3 1/2 bar this is set by the combination kit sent by the manufactures. The constant dripping if coming from the unvented cylinder will be caused by a installion error or a defective expansion vessel, the reasons I have found have been no temperature control on the cylinder, no zone valve fitted, a sluged 2port allowing heat to pass, a 3 port fitted, the cold being a greater pressure than the hot and equalising at mixer taps and the expansion vessel being defective, my call would be defective expansion vessel or the cylinder being over cooked, reducing the incoming pressure means you can't identify the fault that is stopping the cylinder installation working as the manufactures have designed, also I have never to date found a defective T/P valve or 6 bar blow off causing this problem and I make a living identifying installation faults/defects on cylinders.

Marcanthony

gary71 wrote: »

Unvented cylinders are designed to work with a incoming pressure of 3 to 3 1/2 bar this is set by the combination kit sent by the manufactures. The constant dripping if coming from the unvented cylinder will be caused by a installion error or a defective expansion vessel, the reasons I have found have been no temperature control on the cylinder, no zone valve fitted, a sluged 2port allowing heat to pass, a 3 port fitted, the cold being a greater pressure than the hot and equalising at mixer taps and the expansion vessel being defective, my call would be defective expansion vessel or the cylinder being over cooked, reducing the incoming pressure means you can't identify the fault that is stopping the cylinder installation working as the manufactures have designed, also I have never to date found a defective T/P valve or 6 bar blow off causing this problem and I make a living identifying installation faults/defects on cylinders.

I DO AGREE WITH YOU THAT THE PRESSURE VESSEL COULD BE FULL OF WATER AND NO AIR.CAUSING THE PRESSURE RELEASE TO PASS.


IF THE CYLINDER IS BEEN FILLED AT 3 BAR AND THE SAFTEY VALVE IS SET AT 6 BAR.THE SAFTEY VALVE WILL ONLY DISPENSE AT 6 BAR PRESSURE AND PASS.WITH PRESSURE THAT EXCEEDS ITS WORKING CAPACITY DUE TO THE HEATING ELEMENT ON AND THE HOT WATER NOT IN USE WILL CREATE THE PRESSURE VALVE TO PASS.IF THE PRESSURE AND HEATING ELEMENT IS DECREASED THE PRESSURE WILL DECREASE.

I HAVE CAME ACROSS ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASSION.WHERE THE VESSELL WAS OK AND THE SAFTEY VALVE WAS PASSING WITH A CONSTANTLY DRIP.(HOWEVER A CONSTANT DRIP COULD BE DUE TO THE OVERFLOW PIPE NOT BEEN ON A SUFFICENT FALL.) EVEN WHEN THE CYLINDER WAS COLD. HOWEVER MUCH GREATER WHEN THE HEAT WAS ON. I DECREASED THE PRESSURE TO APPROX 2 BAR AND SET THE STATS ON THE CYLINDER AT APPROX 70 DEGREES AND PRESTO THIS HAS BEEN SUCCESFUL ON A FEW OCCASIONS.LOWERING AND CONTROLLING THE HEAT AND THE PRESSURE TO THE CYLNDER.
HOWEVER SINCE YOUR MAKING A LIVING IN IDENTIFYING THESE FAULTS.YOU WILL HAVE NOTICED THAT ON A LOT OF INSTALATIONS OF SIMILAR CYLINDERS BY THE FITTER.THE CRITERIA BEEN SET BY THE MANUFACTURER IS NOT ALWAYS FOLLOWED AND MAY HAVE AN EXPLANATION TO THE REASON THE METHOD I USED HAS WORKED.TAKING IN TO ACCOUNT THAT THESE CYLINDERS WHERE ALL APPROX 170 LITERS IN CAPACITY.

THE 6 BAR PRESSURE SAFTY VALVE IS SPRING LOADED.OPENING AND CLOSING THESE MANUALLY CAN DAMAGE THEM AND DIRT IN THEM CAN CAUSE FAULTS.

Marcanthony

Marcanthony wrote: »

I DECREASED THE PRESSURE TO APPROX 2 BAR AND SET THE STATS ON THE CYLINDER AT APPROX 70 DEGREES AND PRESTO THIS HAS BEEN SUCCESFUL ON A FEW OCCASIONS.LOWERING AND CONTROLLING THE HEAT AND THE PRESSURE TO THE CYLNDER.
.

A cylinder comes with a kit which is designed to allow the cylinder to run at the maximum temperature given on the cylinder stat, it should do this without lifting the T/P valve or 6 bar, if a cylinder drips water it's the first warning that there is a installation fault hence a tundish being required, reducing the temperature and mains pressure will deal with the pressure issue but it will not deal with the defect causing the problem and will be there if the stat is turned up or pressure is increased, I have never thought to decrease performance to deal with a fault that should be identifiable and not keeping within G3regs/manufactures instruction could leave a installer/plumber liable if any damage is caused, which as you know happens more often than it should given the brutal unvented installations out there and the lack of discharge pipevwork.

Marcanthony

gary71 wrote: »

A cylinder comes with a kit which is designed to allow the cylinder to run at the maximum temperature given on the cylinder stat, it should do this without lifting the T/P valve or 6 bar, if a cylinder drips water it's the first warning that there is a installation fault hence a tundish being required, reducing the temperature and mains pressure will deal with the pressure issue but it will not deal with the defect causing the problem and will be there if the stat is turned up or pressure is increased, I have never thought to decrease performance to deal with a fault that should be identifiable and not keeping within G3regs/manufactures instruction could leave a installer/plumber liable if any damage is caused, which as you know happens more often than it should given the brutal unvented installations out there and the lack of discharge pipevwork.

OK HERES THE ANSWER.BEARING IN MIND I WAS NOT FIXING IT BUT TELLING THE OP HOW TO MITIGATE/STOP THE LEAK HIMSELF AND LOOK AT THE PHOTOS HE SUPPLIED.

IN SOME COUNTRIES THEY DONT USE AN EXPANSION VESSEL AND RELY ON THE PRESSURE RELIEVE VALVE FOR THERMAL EXPANSION (A WASTE OF WATER I KNOW).


IF YOU LOOK AT THE PICTURES THE OP HAS SUPPLIED. BETWEEN THE PRV ( THAT IS ALSO ACTING AS AN NRV) AND THE COLD INLET TO FEED THE CYLINDER. NO EXPANSION VESSEL.(THATS WHY I SAID LOOK AT THE GAUGE SET AT 3 BAR PLUS) WHEN HE TURNS ON HIS TAPS THE PUMP IN THE ATTIC MAKES A RACKET ALSO.TERMAL EXPANSION.
IN THE PICTURE 6270. YOU WILL NOTICE THAT WHAT WAS (AT SOME STAGE.INDIRECT SYSTEM) A COLD SUPPLY FROM THE TANK IS BLANKED AND CONNECTED AFTER THE PRV TO PRESURISE THE COLD SUPPLY. THE HOT AND COLD ARE OF EQUAL PRESSURE (EVEN IF YOU ADJUST THE PRESSURE LOWER).YOU WILL READ ON THE WALL BESIDE THE 1/2 FLEXI HOSE.(SUPPLY TO HEATING).THIS IS WHERE THE EXPANSION VESSEL SHOULD HAVE BEEN FITTED.
REDUCE THE PRESSURE AND THE HEAT SOURSE TO A CAPACITY LESS THAN THE DISCHARGE RATE AND PRESTO. NO MORE WATER RELEASING FROM THE DISCHARGE PIPE.(I WAS NOT FIXING THE PROBLEM.I WAS MITIGATING/STOPING THE LEAK)

THE REASON I NEVER MENTIONED AN EXPANSION VESSEL AS A POSS FAULT IS BECAUSE THERES NONE AND THE REASON I SAID THE EXPANSION VESSEL WAS OK ON PREVIOUS ONES THAT HAD THERE PRESSURE AND HEAT SOURSE REDUCED TO STOP THE LEAK.(IS BECAUSE THE EXPANSION VESSEL WAS OK. BUT SERVING NO PURPOSE. IN THE INCORRECT PLACE(AND WAS DONE TO MITIGATE THE LEAK )
I WAS WAITING FOR OP TO SEND A PICTURE OF THE PUMP IN ATTIC (TO SEE WAS THE EXPANSION VESSEL CONNECTED TO THAT) AND IF THE LEAK HAD STOPED.THEN HE WOULD HAVE GOT THE INFO FROM MYSELF TO FIX IT PROPER.THATS WHY I TOLD HIM ILL TELL HIM HOW TO STOP THE RACKET FROM THE PUMP IN THE ATTIC THAT CAUSES THE KIDS TO WAKE. WHEN HE TURNS THE TAP ON. HOWEVER HE WOULD HAVE HAD THE WATER STOPED FROM LEAKING WHILE HE WAS IN THE PROCESS OF GETTING THE EXPANSION VESSEL THATS MISSING FITTED.

AGREE? IF I DONT GET A RESPONSE TO THIS POST FROM YOU. ILL TAKE IT YOU AGREE...SCORE 1-0


THE REASON I SAID TO YOU IN RELATION TO YOUR ORIGINAL POST "STUPIT COMMENT" WAS BECAUSE YOU STATED It over 3 bar because it's the cold water feed for the cylinder and not the pipework for the heating system.YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE IN THE PICTURES THE GAUGE SET AT 3 BAR. THE SAME PIPE FILLING THE CYLINDER AND THE HEATING.THE VALVE IS TURNED OFF AT THE FILLING FOR THE HEATING AND ITS ONLY FEEDING THE CYLINDER AT 3 BAR.HOWEVER WHERE THE HEATING IS BEEN FILLED IS WHERE THE EXPANSION VESSEL SHOULD BE.AND WHEN YOU QUESTIONED ME. I TOLD YOU TO LOOK AT THE PHOTOS AND CORRECT ME IF I WAS WRONG.
YOU HAD THE SAME OPORTUNITY TO VIEW THE PICTURES AND YOU COULD SEE THE HEATING SYSTEM BEEN FILLED WITH THE SAME SUPPLY AS THE CYLINDER.
ANYWAY YOU make a living identifying installation faults/defects on cylinders. SO LOOKING AT THE PHOTOS. THE CAUSE SHOULD HAVE BEEN A FORMALITY TO YOU.(INSTEAD OF A NUMBER OF POSSIBILITES YOU MENTIONED.WHICH I MUST AGREE ARE CORRECT) I HOPE MY EXPLANATION HELPS YOU IN THE FUTURE AND ILL GIVE YOU THE BENIFIT OF THE DOUBT THAT YOU DID NOT LOOK AT THE PHOTOS AND MISUNDERSTOOD THE REASON FOR MY SOLUTIONS.

ANYWAY IF THE ORIGINAL POSTER SEEKING THE ADVICE. READS THIS POST. HE NOW KNOWS THE FULL EXTENT OF HIS PROBLEMS.I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR IF HE GOT THE SAME PLUMBER BACK.HOW HE WOULD TRY FIX IT OR TRY TO SOLVE IT OR HIS EXPLANATION TO THE CLIENT FOR THE FAULT. WITH OUT BEEN TOLD.DEFO IF IT WAS RECORDED WOULD BE ONE FOR "TRADESMEN FROM HELL".BUT ITS THE LIKES OF HIM THAT MAKES ME MONEY FOR A LIVING (IN MORE THAN ONE INDUSTRY).SO I CANT KNOCK HIM TO MUCH.


HORSES FOR COURSES

gman2k

Marcanthony wrote: »

OK HERES THE ANSWER.......
HORSES FOR COURSES

Good advice Marcanthony.
(:)Now could you stop posting with caps lock on?):)

Marcanthony

Marcanthony wrote: »

AGREE? IF I DONT GET A RESPONSE TO THIS POST FROM YOU. ILL TAKE IT YOU AGREE...SCORE 1-0

:pac:
You can have your win.

The difference between you and I is I work to G3 safety reqs which formats a safe unvented installation, I wouldn't be able to walk away from a installation that didn't meet that criteria, if a unvented cylinder is unable to deal with pressure then there is a reason, I prefer to have that reason delt with which may include refitting the expansion vessel, i can see how what you are suggesting would work but it wouldn't be something I could do.

Marcanthony

gary71 wrote: »

:pac:
You can have your win.

The difference between you and I is I work to G3 safety reqs which formats a safe unvented installation, I wouldn't be able to walk away from a installation that didn't meet that criteria, if a unvented cylinder is unable to deal with pressure then there is a reason, I prefer to have that reason delt with which may include refitting the expansion vessel, i can see how what you are suggesting would work but it wouldn't be something I could do.

I UNDERSTAND YOU TRY KEEP TO A HIGH STANDARD.IF ANY OF MY STAFF LEFT AS A FINISH A JOB LIKE THAT OR DID NOT KNOW THE CAUSE BY LOOKING AT IT. I CAN TELL YOU THE DOLE Q WOULD INCREASE.
HOWEVER THAT WOULD NOT HAPPEN BECAUSE THAT IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF A LACK OF KNOWELEDGE AND SUPERVISION.

THAT SYSTEM METHOD I MENTIONED WAS ONLY TO MITIGATE THE FAULT (PREVENT FROM LEAKING & BECOMING WORSE).HOWEVER A LOT OF COUNTRIES WITH A HIGHER PRESSURE SUPPLY THAN OUR COUNTRY PROVIDED TO THEIR PREMISES .OPERATE ON THAT BASIS AND WORKS PERFECT.
YOU STATE: The difference between you and I is I work to G3 safety reqs which formats a safe unvented installation, I wouldn't be able to walk away from a installation that didn't meet that criteria SO IF YOU CALLED TO A CLIENTS HOUSE AND YOU DID NOT HAVE AN EXPANSION VESSEL.WOULD YOU JUST LEAVE THEM WITH OUT WATER (HOT & COLD) UNTIL YOU GOT ONE. JUST TO MEET YOUR G3 REGS. OR WOULD YOU MITIGATE THE PROBLEM AND LEAVE THEM WITH WATER TILL YOU GOT THE VESSEL? I KNOW MY CLIENTS BEST INTRESTS ARE MY INTRESTS & I KNOW HOW MY CUSTOMER SERVICE WOULD BE APPROCHED. "AS A TEMPERORY MEASURE IF THE HEAT SOURSE AND PRESSURE IS LESS THAN THE DISCHARGE RATE.WHAT CAN HAPPEN WITH A PRESSURISED CYLINDER? 0000000000

I DID NOT DO THAT JOB.SO I WAS NOT WALKING AWAY FROM IT. I WAS TELLING THE OP HOW TO STOP THE LEAK.I KNEW BY LOOKING AT THE PICTURES WHAT WAS WRONG.HOWEVER I WAS WAITING FOR THE OP TO GET BACK TO ME.TO INFORM OF THE NEXT STAGE.I INSPECT 80% OF ALL MY COMPANYS WORK. SO IT MEETS MY STANDARDS AND MY STANDARDS ARE EVEN HIGHER THAN YOUR 3G SAFTEY REG.

FINAL SCORE 2-0

Marcanthony

Marcanthony wrote: »

SO IF YOU CALLED TO A CLIENTS HOUSE AND YOU DID NOT HAVE AN EXPANSION VESSEL.WOULD YOU JUST LEAVE THEM WITH OUT WATER (HOT & COLD) UNTIL YOU GOT ONE.

Yep, cylinder would be off and cold would still be on, better to annoy someone for a time than take a risk.

G3 is a basic safety requirement for the installation of unvented cylinders and is copied by manufactures instructions, it's there to prevent dangerous installations and identify faults that could lead to safety issues or water damage, the fact you are happy to work outside of that and seem to have no knowledge of it is unfortunate, I'll stick to working within given safety regs even if it makes me a loser:pac:

Marcanthony

gary71 wrote: »

Yep, cylinder would be off and cold would still be on(LOOK AT THE PHOTO ONLY ONE ISOLATION VALVE .YOU WOULD HAVE TO MAKE ALTERATIONS TO THE PIPE WORK(ADDITIONAL LABOUR).WOULD YOU HAVE DONE THAT FREE OF CHARGE AND STILL CALLED BACK AND BILLED ANOTHER FEE.I TRY KEEP MY CLIENTS COSTS DOWN. AS I TOLD YOU IN PREVIOUS POST MY CLIENTS BEST INTRESTS IS MY INTREST.TOILITS MAY BE FEAD FROM THE OLD SUPPLY FROM TANK.BUT I CANT CONFIRM THIS.NOT VISUAL IN THE PICTURES.), better to annoy someone for a time than take a risk.
WHAT RISK. ILL SEND YOU THE FORMULA FOR WHAT THIS ISSUE IS ABOUT.NO YOU SHOULD KNOW THE FORMULA.YOU JUST KEEP DIGING A HOLE FOR YOURSELF.

G3 is a basic safety requirement for the installation of unvented cylinders and is copied by manufactures instructions, it's there to prevent dangerous installations and identify faults that could lead to safety issues or water damage, the fact you are happy to work outside of that and seem to have no knowledge of it is unfortunate, I'll stick to working within given safety regs even if it makes me a loser

(G3)ITS A CODE OF PRACTISE. THE MANUFACTURERS (ENGINEERS) HAVE DESIGNED SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS.I WOULD AGREE THAT IN SOME CIRCUMSTANCES COMPLETE SHUT DOWN UNTIL REPAIRS ARE CARRIED OUT.OTHER TIMES KNOWEDGE AND EXPERIENCE OUTBEATS THEORY. "PAPER DOES NOT REFUSE INK."

THAT SHOULD NOW CONCLUDE AND FINALISE THIS PLUMBING ISSUE....HOWEVER A LOT OF GOOD ADVISE HAS BEEN GIVEN AND THIS WILL BENIFIT READERS OF THIS POST.
I HOPE YOU WILL ACCEPT MY FRIEND REQUEST.
I DONT USUALLY LIKE HAVING THE LAST WORD .SO ILL USE NUMBERS 2-0.

I am responsible for all warranty issues for one of the larger cylinder manufactures, my experience is based on many years of dealing with mistakes made by others and I get to see the damage caused, due to this I wouldn't take the risk you have even if in your experience it's not a perceived risk, I have been round long enough to know I'm only as good as my last job and I'm more than happy to learn from a fella who uses capitals and has a number fetish but I have a different approach when dealing with a dripping discharge that works for me and within manufactures safety requirements.

Marcanthony

gary71 wrote: »

I am responsible for all warranty issues for one of the larger cylinder manufactures, my experience is based on many years of dealing with mistakes made by others and I get to see the damage caused, due to this I wouldn't take the risk you have even if in your experience it's not a perceived risk, I have been round long enough to know I'm only as good as my last job and I'm more than happy to learn from a fella who uses capitals and has a number fetish but I have a different approach when dealing with a dripping discharge that works for me and within manufactures safety requirements.

Gary, fair enough. you got a goal in added time 2-1.
final whistles gone.
I do not doubt your abilty.I know from some of your statements with in this post. You have a lot of experience and that you are an employee and you work to your instructions from your employer.
The main objective of this post was to give recommendation regarding mechanical issues and a lot of good explanations and advise and repair techniques and temperory repair solutions has been given free of charge.Which helps other op's from been taking advantage of or overcharged.THATS A GOOD THING.
In relation to this issue of constant drip of water outside the back the door. The op,s problem has been confirmed.He will not be fooled by the plumber he originally got to install.If he decides to call him back.The worst possible out come for this persific op now is.Now he knows how to repair. The bucket he had collecting the water from the dischage . He was using to water the plants.I bet you that bucket will end up unemployed now.

To finalise any young plumbers reading this post or the post about back boilers making noises.Are also getting a lot of information to help them gain experience. As back boilers are be coming more common now and most of the celtic tigers would probably had never even seen a back boiler.





"THERES NO SUCH THING AS A STUPIT PERSON AND ANY BODY THAT THINKS THERE IS.....WELL THE ANSWER IS IN THERE SOME WHERE"

paddy147

Can we turn off the cap locks please and use normal typing method.

Thanks

Marcanthony

paddy147 wrote: »

Can we turn off the cap locks please and use normal typing method.

Thanks

SORRY PADDY...i wont do that any more.the mrs wont let me talk at home.she does all the talking for me. she asks me something and she answer it for me. i cant get a word in with her. so i feel like i am SHOUTING at the boardies when i have the caps on. i feel like i am letting steam off.i think she has a speech impediment. her mouth never shuts.

paddy147

Marcanthony wrote: »

SORRY PADDY...i wont do that any more.the mrs wont let me talk at home.she does all the talking for me. she asks me something and she answer it for me. i cant get a word in with her. so i feel like i am SHOUTING at the boardies when i have the caps on. i feel like i am letting steam off.

I feel your pain,I have a woman like that too.:pac::pac:

"yeah honey,no problem honey" (in one ear and back out the other as fast as possible with me):D

Marcanthony

anybody got any problems?

Skidrow

Baxi solo - a couple of days ago you said I had a semi-sealed system and I should get my system pressurised. Briefly what is involved ? Is it a DIY job ? How much would it cost ?
Thanks.

Marcanthony

Skidrow wrote: »

Baxi solo - a couple of days ago you said I had a semi-sealed system and I should get my system pressurised. Briefly what is involved ? Is it a DIY job ? How much would it cost ?
Thanks.

YOUR SYSTEM IS BEEN FEAD BY A GRAVITY FEED AT PRESENT. IT JUST NEEDS TO BE CONNECTED TO A SUPPLY THAT WILL BE ABLE TO FILL YOUR SYSTEM AT A PRESSURE GREATER THAN 1.5 BAR.HOWEVER YOU NEED TO GET YOUR SYSTEM TO BE CONFIRMED THAT YOU HAVE NO LEAKS TO WORK EFFICIENT.EASILY SORTED IF YOU DONT DO A CHECK IN ADVANCE."UNLESS YOU HAVE A major LEAK"

hawkelady

hello, hope you can point me in the right direction..
I have a shower in the ensuite which ,when i turn it on each morning splutters for a couple of mins, after that it flows fine. There is a pump in the hotpress that pumps the water to the shower but again,for the 1st couple of mins it sounds as if its struggling,ie cuts out briefly/keeps turning on and off,basically it stutters,then after the 2mins go by,its as if it kicks in and evrything runs smooth,shower is grand.. what could be the problem and how to fix??from a novice ,i would take a guess and say an air lock or something.
please help cause i dont know if its doing damage or not.thanks a million

Marcanthony

hawkelady wrote: »

hello, hope you can point me in the right direction..
I have a shower in the ensuite which ,when i turn it on each morning splutters for a couple of mins, after that it flows fine. There is a pump in the hotpress that pumps the water to the shower but again,for the 1st couple of mins it sounds as if its struggling,ie cuts out briefly/keeps turning on and off,basically it stutters,then after the 2mins go by,its as if it kicks in and evrything runs smooth,shower is grand.. what could be the problem and how to fix??from a novice ,i would take a guess and say an air lock or something.
please help cause i dont know if its doing damage or not.thanks a million

the most likly cause is air. fit a automatic air vent at the highest point feeding the pump on the hot supply.cant see a problem with the cold if it has its own independendent supply from tank in attic. post a picture and i will confirm.

Marcanthony

EXPLANATION FOR A DIFFERENT THREAD:
on the first page of this thread picture 6270 you will see in the bottom left hand corner a valve with a red wheel head it goes into the side of the cylinder turn your one to the right to close.it could be on the bottom or top pipe entering side of the cylinder.

sullzz

Marcanthony wrote: »

the most likly cause is air. fit a automatic air vent at the highest point feeding the pump on the hot supply.cant see a problem with the cold if it has its own independendent supply from tank in attic. post a picture and i will confirm.

Auto air vent on the supply to a pump , ive never seen that and hope i never do

sullzz

hawkelady wrote: »

hello, hope you can point me in the right direction..
I have a shower in the ensuite which ,when i turn it on each morning splutters for a couple of mins, after that it flows fine. There is a pump in the hotpress that pumps the water to the shower but again,for the 1st couple of mins it sounds as if its struggling,ie cuts out briefly/keeps turning on and off,basically it stutters,then after the 2mins go by,its as if it kicks in and evrything runs smooth,shower is grand.. what could be the problem and how to fix??from a novice ,i would take a guess and say an air lock or something.
please help cause i dont know if its doing damage or not.thanks a million

Chrck to see where the hot supply to the pump is taken from you should have a surrey flange fitted or an essex flange fitted to the cylinder ( google the name to get a pic) , if you dont have one of these fitted you will be drawing air into the pump

Mark.Anthony

sullzz wrote: »

Auto air vent on the supply to a pump , ive never seen that and hope i never do

marcanthony would have had great fun with you/lucky hes retired.:rolleyes:

Billy Bunting

Mark.Anthony wrote: »

marcanthony would have had great fun with you/lucky hes retired.:rolleyes:

Nah!! he was just a plastic plumber :rolleyes: