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Moisture board

  • 10-08-2011 8:49am
    #1
    Francis100
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 ✭


    Hi all,

    Installing an en - suite in bedroom, I know that you must put moisture board around the shower area, but a builder told me it is better to put WBP board on instead, he says it is better, and also better for Putting Tiles on also.

    Is he right or wrong ?

    Ta !!!


Comments

  • #2
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Personally i think WBP is a better idea, simply because of the fact that if you want, or need, to replace tiles on the walls then the plasterboard doesnt come off with you.
    Also, id trust the WBP more for stability should the grouting fail in an area of high water splashing such as a shower.

    the rolls royce solution is actually cement board, but thats v. expensive....


  • #3
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    re WBP: you need specify to EN standards class 2 (for humid) or class 3 (for external)

    Syd, would shuttering ply be a cheaper alternative?


  • #4
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    i honestly havent a clue bryan.


  • #5
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Do NOT use plywood - any plywood, under, or behind, tiling. It is a wood product and expands/contracts.........which your tiles don't. No prizes for guessing what the end result will be.

    What you should use is something like Tegral Hydropanel or Duripanel - which is specifically designed for the use you mention. It's not expensive, either.

    More info, here: (no connection btw) http://www.tegral.com/index.php?page=building-boards

    Or you could use Hardibacker board as well (I have all my bathroom's done in it).

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  • #6
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    galwaytt, there always needs to be an element of 'give' behind tilings on a stud wall. There will be impact stressed caused on both sides, there will also be vibration stresses etc. The underlining needs to be able to absorb this.

    While i agree that a cementious board is the best option, i would not discount WBP in the same manner you do in light of the price differential.


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  • #7
    tred
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭tred


    galwaytt wrote: »
    Do NOT use plywood - any plywood, under, or behind, tiling. It is a wood product and expands/contracts.........which your tiles don't. No prizes for guessing what the end result will be.

    What you should use is something like Tegral Hydropanel or Duripanel - which is specifically designed for the use you mention. It's not expensive, either.

    More info, here: (no connection btw) http://www.tegral.com/index.php?page=building-boards

    Or you could use Hardibacker board as well (I have all my bathroom's done in it).

    The problem with using normal ply, is that it absorbs the moisture from the glue, which then can cause the tiles to drop off. You would seal it with PVA. Marine ply would be the way to go, but its expensive as well.


  • #8
    mfceiling
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,902 ✭✭✭✭mfceiling


    OP try to find this.....http://www.lafarge-aquaboard.com/

    Finding it specced on a number of jobs now as opposed to the regular moisture board in areas of high dampness and humidity.


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