Price quoted for new boiler etc., is this a fair price?

TwoShedsJackson

Have been given a price of 1350 for a new a-rated boiler, new water cylinder, 5 thermostatic rad valves, new immersion, new timer for immersion and new timer for boiler, plus 1350 for installation for 2700 total.

Does this seem like a reasonable price, I had figured something in the 2500 range anyway, just want to make sure the installation rate etc. is realistic. Thanks.

Joey the lips

2500 is adverage. But yours is withing the adverage. Are you applying for the grants.

Dardania

just to check some questions for you to ask:

does it include space heating zone valves?

does it include the weather compensation external stat, to make the boiler go into condensing mode: http://www.rvr.ie/Advice/Homeowners/Condensing_Gas_Boilers/1_2_1_2_1/ ? (It won't otherwise, and you won't get the efficiency claimed...)

is the hot water cylinder fed directly from the boiler, off a different outlet (so that you can have a variable temp to the space heating, and constant temp to the hot water cylinder, separately)?

Is the cylinder decently insulated? What about general approach to insulation of pipework?

JohnnieK

Dardania wrote: »

just to check some questions for you to ask:

does it include space heating zone valves?

does it include the weather compensation external stat, to make the boiler go into condensing mode: http://www.rvr.ie/Advice/Homeowners/Condensing_Gas_Boilers/1_2_1_2_1/ ? (It won't otherwise, and you won't get the efficiency claimed...)

is the hot water cylinder fed directly from the boiler, off a different outlet (so that you can have a variable temp to the space heating, and constant temp to the hot water cylinder, separately)?

Is the cylinder decently insulated? What about general approach to insulation of pipework?

Weather compensation stat is an optional extra and not part of a standard upgrade. Manufacturers claim it adds an additional 2% onto the SAP seasonal efficency of the boiler. Dose the price also include VAT. What boiler are they using, cylinder ect. I'm supprised at some low quotes floating around seen as how pipe and fittings have gone up 17.5% since January.

karlitob

Dardania wrote: »

does it include the weather compensation external stat, to make the boiler go into condensing mode: http://www.rvr.ie/Advice/Homeowners/Condensing_Gas_Boilers/1_2_1_2_1/ ? (It won't otherwise, and you won't get the efficiency claimed...)

JohnnieK wrote: »

Weather compensation stat is an optional extra and not part of a standard upgrade. Manufacturers claim it adds an additional 2% onto the SAP seasonal efficency of the boiler.

Any suggestions on hat I should do. Will I go with the weather comp stat or just leave it?

Thanks

DoneDL

I would go for the weather compensation but considering the variety of your posts you seem to be lacking a plumber that you trust to advise you.

JohnnieK

It also needs to be wired correctly otherwise it will affect the hot water side.

karlitob

JohnnieK wrote: »

It also needs to be wired correctly otherwise it will affect the hot water side.

Thanks Johnnie - how do you mean. Naively, I assume that it would be done right. What should I watch out for?

JohnnieK

Weather compensation is only for your space heating and not for your hot water. When set up it regulates the boiler out put for your home, for this reason you need a seperate circuit for hot water because this would be of a higher temp to heat the cylinder as quick as possible. Boilers with true weather compensation have 4 connections on them to achive total seperation and are controled by a diverter vakve in the boiler. Viessmann, Worcester are two of these boilers (i'm sure there might be more). Boilers with two conections are set up differently. If the heating circuit is on with weather comp and the hot water comes on the boiler will ramp up to full power to heat the cylinder but this will also go through the heating circuit and in essence over heat the space until the cylinder is satisfied. The wiring has to be done right and parameters changed on the control board to set it up. Seperate heating and hot water times will compensate for this.

paddy147

Why do alot of plumbing companies ramp up the price when they hear or learn that you are applying for SEI grant???

JohnnieK

Probably because they don't want anything to do with SEAI. If I could talk a customer out of going for it I would!
What an immersion timer, 10sq earth bonding (even if there is none in the house, it has to be put in) an automatic by-pass on a system with 10 radiators and only 3 TRV's and an internal one on the boiler and safety blow off pipe terminating 100mm from the ground (even when the manufacturer does not state this, they say terminate in a safe manner) has to do with an efficient heating system is beyond me.

Dardania

Probably to encourage good practice. Earthing is a safety issue, the blow off method is one definite way of doing it safely...
Also the 3 TRVs can be an energy efficiency items if used correctly, as is the immersion timer, to avoid people leaving it on all the time...

JohnnieK

Dardania wrote: »

Probably to encourage good practice. Earthing is a safety issue, the blow off method is one definite way of doing it safely...
Also the 3 TRVs can be an energy efficiency items if used correctly, as is the immersion timer, to avoid people leaving it on all the time...

I agree with you on all aspects but this all cost money especially when the earth bonding is non existing and an electrician has to come in and upgrade it. Also ECTI regulations spec 2.5sq cable to the immersion for double load and most only have 1.5sq so this too has to be taken into account. The immersion timer can still be left on by accident if some one hit off the slider when getting a towel out, and regarding the safety valve if there is a run of pipe externally and the safety valve becomes faulty and passes water, in the winter this could freeze causing an ice plug and in theory become dangerous to the installation. If there is just an elbow looking down with a small piece of pipe this minimizes this. Theres is no mention of this magic 100mm distance in the building regs or manufacturers instructions.

I'm not disagreeing with you but I find a mentality amongst customers since they reduced the grant that the contractor is expected to take up the deficet.