Lets bright up our retr0boxes

docentore

Today I decided to refresh my newest buy: Sega DC. It wasn't too yellow, but I wanted to try the retr0bright method. Sorry for noise on the pictures, I forgot to change ISO after yesterday night pictures.

Bought some cheap hair brighteners (mrs was happy because of free conditioners ) with 12% hydro-peroxide paste.


Before the process:


Covered with the 12% paste with activator:


After 3 hours under shady polish sky:


As mentioned the yellowing wasn't huge but difference is visible. Maybe not on this pictures (bloody high ISO) but it was worth €2

Pyongyang

Excellent work Mr. Doc.

Despite the shady imagery, you can see the difference in the before and after treatments. I'll definitely give this a shot when I get some suntanned items.

Optimus Prime

did you just put that stuff on as is, or did you mix both of those together or how did you do it?

Myrddin

Nothing like two blondes to get your colour back

CathalDublin

Did you make the full retr0brite formula or just use the Hydrogen peroxide?
Need to do the NES asap, as it went totally yellow when stored in the attic for the last year, I've a uv lamp there so I should get good results

Welease

CathalDublin wrote: »

Did you make the full retr0brite formula or just use the Hydrogen peroxide?
Need to do the NES asap, as it went totally yellow when stored in the attic for the last year, I've a uv lamp there so I should get good results

I'd be intrerested in those results... I have a full yellow ZX80 that I would be interested in treating, but given it's age and somewhat rarity want to be careful..

(am also somewhat interested in whether non yellowed computer antiques goes the same way as other antiques.. where removal of age is a no no )

docentore

keithgeo wrote: »

did you just put that stuff on as is, or did you mix both of those together or how did you do it?

I just mixed two bags together. First one, the one with 12% is just hydroperoxide, but it was gel-like, so there was no need for any thickener.

Second item is activator, similar to Oxi stuff, supposedly not needed. Next batch I'm going to do will be without the acti stuff.

I'll post some more pictures tomorrow, I just noticed the difference between bottom and top part.

Jack burton

Nice results

moonlighting

throw some petrol on it and give it good old scrub. works a charm

CathalDublin

moonlighting wrote: »

throw some petrol on it and give it good old scrub. works a charm

that wont de-yellow plastic though

Mr.Saturn

It will, however, make you think twice about smoking.

Pyongyang

Mr.Saturn wrote: »

It will, however, make you think twice about smoking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2D32h5Njcc

docentore

Mr.Saturn wrote: »

It will, however, make you think twice about smoking.

Don't want to play mr know it all, but it wont, at least not this kind of yellowing. The yellowing we are talking here is due to plastic getting older and some molecules... blah blah blah...

The yellowing that you are talking about is due to contamination, ie. by cigarette smoke.

I tried almost everything before to restore yellow plastics: chlorine bleach, petrol, acetone dissolvent, sugar soap, ordinary soap, Oxi on its own etc.


I promissed to post some more pictures, but I was busy with packing. Anyway I have few more boxes to clean (SNES, another DC) so I'm going to post some more CLEAR pictures when doing those.

safetyboy

Hi!

Thank you for contacting us. That's an interesting question! For the Super NES, this is a normal condition and no cause for alarm. Cleaning or handling the system will have minimal impact to change or revive the original color.

The Super NES, as well as our other systems, are made with a plastic containing flame-retardant chemicals to meet safety guidelines. Over time, the plastic will age and discolor both because of these chemicals as well as from the normal heat generated from the product or exposure to light. Because of the light color of the plastic of the SNES and NES, this discoloration is more easily seen than with other darker plastics such as on the N64 and the Nintendo GameCube.

Thanks for your email!
Nintendo of America Inc.
Casey Ludwig

Nintendo's home page: http://www.nintendo.com/
Power Line (Automated Product Info): (425) 885-7529

http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189#more-189

Mr.Saturn

docentore wrote: »

Don't want to play mr know it all, but it wont, at least not this kind of yellowing. The yellowing we are talking here is due to plastic getting older and some molecules... blah blah blah...

I was actually making a reference to the idea of covering your console with a flammable liquid, as opposed to anything relating to nicotine staining.

CathalDublin

I've just been informed Terry Sales on abbey street have 40%+ peroxide
deffo gonna make me up some retr0brite over the next week and I'll post some before and after pics.
My console went into the attic(in a plastic storage container) looking like brand new, removed less than a year later looking all aged and yellow

Steve X2

CathalDublin wrote: »

I've just been informed Terry Sales on abbey street have 40%+ peroxide
deffo gonna make me up some retr0brite over the next week and I'll post some before and after pics.
My console went into the attic(in a plastic storage container) looking like brand new, removed less than a year later looking all aged and yellow

I used retr0brite a good few times now myself. I'd be interested to see how you get on as you have a UV lamp and that's supposed to make a big difference to the results.

docentore

Mr.Saturn wrote: »

I was actually making a reference to the idea of covering your console with a flammable liquid, as opposed to anything relating to nicotine staining.

sorry misunderstood you there. anyway scrubbing is not an option in my case as it might damage plastics. also I didn't have much luck with any solvents.

CiDeRmAn

You know, I just thought of a series of jokes based around the portmanteau of "Retr0box" and most of them will earn a thump from Sera next time I see her, so I shan't mention them now.

Just to be on the safe side.