To stake or not to stake

km79

Got a few trees yday and assumed I was to stake them all. However the garden centre guy said there was no need to stake the common beech or beech reversia tree. Both are approx 8 foot tall. He said as they were fairly full at the bottom they be ok without stakes ???? Also a six foot weeping tree with red berries (can't remember name )
So advice to stake or not to stake ?

Sonnenblumen

Although you do not have to stake a tree, by not doing so, the chances of the tree surviving or fully developing in an upright manner are all significantly reduced. Worse still and unsupported tree is vunerable to wind rock, which will more likely lead to eventual failure.


Garden centre trees are usually relatively small trees with 6/8 girths, so unless the planting position is in very sheltered, I would stake it.

looksee

My own theory on staking is to put in a shortish stake that does not hold the entire trunk, just stops it rocking in the ground, as Sonnenblumen says. The tree needs to be allowed to move the trunk in the wind, but not to move the rootball.

paddy147

Staking is easy and this is how my girlfriend did it with the tree in our garden
Rootball doesnt move,yet tree can still move in the wind.

Hal Emmerich

paddy147 wrote: »

Staking is easy and this is how my girlfriend did it with the tree in our garden
Rootball doesnt move,yet tree can still move in the wind.

WTF? That won't help it will it? Never seen it done that way. That won't stop the trunk getting lose where it meets the ground, which is the most common way I see trees dying.

OP stake them, better than going out some morning in 4 years time and they bent over cuz of wind the night before.

I actually had to re-do a few stakes in "windy" May on 7 year old over 13ft high trees (red/brown leaves, don't know what there called) I didn't think they were safe enough be free yet.

paddy147

Hal Emmerich wrote: »

WTF? That won't help it will it? Never seen it done that way. That won't stop the trunk getting lose where it meets the ground, which is the most common way I see trees dying.

OP stake them, better than going out some morning in 4 years time and they bent over cuz of wind the night before.

I actually had to re-do a few stakes in "windy" May on 7 year old over 13ft high trees (red/brown leaves, don't know what there called) I didn't think they were safe enough be free yet.

It does work and is quite common and alternative method of staking/securing a tree and rootball,thus preventing movement.

Its thought in 3rd level college (ITB and Botanic Gardens) when doing Horticulture Degree course.

Ophiopogon

^^^

Yes that method is taught in the Botanics. However, there is really no need for a normal person planting in your average back garden to go to these lenghts as its really only used in excessively windy sites or for exspensive trees.

Op just do normal staking but ensure the ties are not to tight as the tree needs to some movement to encourage it to anchor itself.

km79

thanks for all the replies. i staked them. still find it unusual that the garden centre guy said not to. better safe than sorry though

Sonnenblumen

Ophiopogon wrote: »

^^^

Yes that method is taught in the Botanics. However, there is really no need for a normal person planting in your average back garden to go to these lenghts as its really only used in excessively windy sites or for exspensive trees.

Op just do normal staking but ensure the ties are not to tight as the tree needs to some movement to encourage it to anchor itself.

They're teaching horticulturists to anchor stake trees with 2"x1" untreated timber laths? A rather dubious and crude alternative to the preferred professional method of using secured galvanised anchoring wires/chains.

Ophiopogon

Well I think you will find that "professionals" use a variety of staking methods dependant on their budget, skill and situation...

And I presume the Botanic's feel its best to teach all methods in their degree course so the student has a full understanding.

paddy147

Staking with the method shown above is also an alternative way of staking the rootball and tree,without the need for a visual/above ground stake or stakes and or stability wires.

Some people do prefer not to be able to see a typical wooden tree stake and rubber straps or stability wires.

Some pieces of 2x 1 timber is used to give stability,yet it still allows the rootball to grow and the roots to spread down and out.

This underground method of staking is also a good way of securing multi stem trees,without driving in 2 or 3 stakes from above ground and possible splitting and killing the multistem tree/rootball.

paddy147

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

They're teaching horticulturists to anchor stake trees with 2"x1" untreated timber laths? A rather dubious and crude alternative to the preferred professional method of using secured galvanised anchoring wires/chains.

The underground method is actually just as good,and better,in certain situations.

I love how you allways put things and others down,just because you havent thought of that way of doing things or bother to.

Sonnenblumen

paddy147 wrote: »

The underground method is actually just as good,and better,in certain situations.

I love how you allways put things and others down,just because you havent thought of that way of doing things or bother to.

You're obviously not familiar with the preferred methods of securing rootballs underground. Ignorance is bliss.:(

paddy147

Sonnenblumen wrote: »

You're obviously not familiar with the preferred methods of securing rootballs underground. Ignorance is bliss.:(

Ignorance is bliss you say??....Yep,It has shown through in a good few if your posts towards others,on this forum.

You allways like to frown upon anything that anyone else does or says.Your attitude is that if people dont spend loads of money out and its not done your way,then its wrong.Nothing has changed with you and nothing ever will,this is just another typical "look down your nose at others" post of yours.

You might know some things,but you dont know it all,like you seem to think you do.:rolleyes:



http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/staking.shtml

Dr Galen

Right.......

I've had a cup of coffee, which is a good thing. Otherwise you two would be getting bans.

I'm nit sure why this bitchyness is continuing. Both myself and Cabaal as mods of the forum have asked for you both to stop.

Take your petty snakiness to a PM conversation, and don't let it spill over into the forum. If this happens again, there will be a 1 month forum ban levied on ALL those involved. Regardless of who started it, who called who what name or any other playground style excuses.

Simples.


Cheers

DrG

slowburner

km79 wrote: »

Got a few trees yday and assumed I was to stake them all. However the garden centre guy said there was no need to stake the common beech or beech reversia tree. Both are approx 8 foot tall. He said as they were fairly full at the bottom they be ok without stakes ???? Also a six foot weeping tree with red berries (can't remember name )
So advice to stake or not to stake ?

It depends on where you are planting the trees. If it is a sheltered spot, then the trees would not need to be staked. And it depends on the soil: if the soil has a high clay content, staking would not be necessary (again, if the site is sheltered). But if the soil is loose staking would be advisable.
It is very important not to plant the tree below the 'tide mark' on the trunk (i.e. the original soil level of the container).

paddy147

I hope the OP is now sorted and is happy.I was only showing another tried and tested method,thats all.Thats all I was doing here and thats all I wanted to do in my simple and original post.I will bow out of this now.

Thanks and Regards.

km79

paddy147 wrote: »

I hope the OP is now sorted and is happy.I was only showing another tried and tested method,thats all.Thats all I was doing here and thats all I wanted to do in my simple and original post.I will bow out of this now.

Thanks and Regards.

Yeah sorted thanks. One more query though. All of the trees I've planted so far have been fairly mature from garden centres but obviously quite dear. I need to get a good few more for back garden so I'll wait till bare root season. When planting bare root trees do I need to dig as deep as for the potted ones ?

slowburner

km79 wrote: »

Yeah sorted thanks. One more query though. All of the trees I've planted so far have been fairly mature from garden centres but obviously quite dear. I need to get a good few more for back garden so I'll wait till bare root season. When planting bare root trees do I need to dig as deep as for the potted ones ?

Same as above - plant to the tide mark - never above it.:)

km79

slowburner wrote: »

km79 wrote: »

Yeah sorted thanks. One more query though. All of the trees I've planted so far have been fairly mature from garden centres but obviously quite dear. I need to get a good few more for back garden so I'll wait till bare root season. When planting bare root trees do I need to dig as deep as for the potted ones ?

Same as above - plant to the tide mark - never above it.:)

What's the tide mark

ytpe2r5bxkn0c1

Where the soil had previously been. you'll see the mark on the trunk.