1968 Proof Penny

theboss80

Hi guys, could anybody tell me a bit about how to recognise one? My grandfather left me about 50 of them (all 1968)

I have read chickless ones are worth a couple of quid but the proofs are worth quite alot more.

What are the characteristics of the proof coin in general for the 68 proof penny?

MarkR

I don't know anything about coins, but couldn't resist a google.

http://www.irishcoinage.com/X00009.HTM

theboss80

Ya i read that but am still lost.:o

Whats a mirrored field and frosted device?

Is a sharply defined edge the edge without notches or what?

tonysopprano

Proof Sets: This is undoubtedly among the most misused terms in the hobby,
not only by collectors and dealers, but also by many of the world mints.
A true proof set must be at least double-struck on specially prepared polished
planchets and struck using dies (often themselves polished) of the highest quality.
Modern-day proof quality consists of frosted effigies surrounded by absolute
mirror-like fields.

Basically a proof coin is one that is struck first off the new dies. As you can imagine, quality diminishes with each strike so a proof is one or many that are struck before this degradation.

Blade

It's highly unlikely that you'll have any proofs in that lot, if it's just a batch of circulated 1968 pennies. Proofs are specially minted for collectors and not something you're likely to find in circulation.

There are also "Proof Like" 1968 pennies, these were sent into circulation but when spotted were quickly kept aside by dealers and collectors. These would have been early strikings with brand new dies and struck on different planchets which had a mirror like finish, but would only have been struck once. So these are not actually proofs but "proof like", still quite desirable.

It's difficult to explain by text or photos how to spot one as you need to have one in your hand and you also need to have a trained eye to be able to tell the difference. As with chickless pennies this term of proof is often misused by sellers on ebay trying to get higher prices. I see the same sellers using these terms for chickless and proof when the items are clearly NOT. This practice ruins it for genuine dealers selling genuine items as people are under the impression they can get these items much cheaper on ebay.

I have some "proof likes" here but I think it would be difficult to show their characteristics by taking a photo of them. I might give it a go though and likewise with a real chickless, this way people could tell the difference and not fall for all the BS on ebay.

theboss80

Thanks for the reply.

Would be great to see. These came in original brown wrapping. I was always under the impression they were 20p's and today had a look to see were they the elusive 1985's:D but then found what they were.

My granda gave them to me when I was a teenager years ago and said to put them away safe somewhere. He owned a butcher shop and it was in the family nearly a hundred years so I imagine they may have been for use in the shop when the decimal system came in.

They are all 1968 and there is 52 of them in total.

Gun_money

First there is 2 types of proof 1968 penny
1. The normal penny on there is a defined rim and then the beads, on the proof 1968 penny the rim and beads are all one. There is a number of these around (20)
2. As the normal penny but in proof finish and by only looking at proof coins would you be able to tell.


The chances of having proofs is very slim, but still nice to have from your grandfather.