Is this silicone spray ok for full metal GBB pistol (Co2)

Na0

Was just wondering if this 3in1 professional spray lube is ok for my gbb thanks for any help in advance would rather be safe than sorry

swiftblade

I say yes, others say no. I have been using it for a few years now without problems

Na0

used on all parts swiftblade? mag and internals? thx for the fast reply also

swiftblade

Na0 wrote: »

used on all parts swiftblade? mag and internals? thx for the fast reply also

Silcone spray should be used on all fast moving parts. Silicone gresse for internals. Don't spray into hop up chamber and try not to use it in mags. It just gives dirt something to stick to

NakedDex

swiftblade wrote: »

I say yes, others say no. I have been using it for a few years now without problems

Anyone who says not to use it is an idiot. I've covered this repeatedly here, including the myths about WD40 and it's ilk. People need to actually do some basic research before giving others advice or "facts".

Na0

thanks alot folks for the help really appreciated see so much fuss about what to use and what not to !

F.U.B.A.R

Na0 wrote: »

thanks alot folks for the help really appreciated see so much fuss about what to use and what not to !

I beleive the fuss was over the silicone actually beinng the thing to use as it helps to protect the seals by engorging them whilst the wd40 will destroy the as its made for REMOVING rust from metal which it does fairly well so you realy should keep that stuff away from your mag and hop-up as itt will destroy the rubber :pac: In my personal experience silicone works:D

NakedDex

F.U.B.A.R wrote: »

wd40 will destroy the as its made for REMOVING rust from metal which it does fairly well so you realy should keep that stuff away from your mag and hop-up as itt will destroy the rubber

All of this is so very, very wrong.

F.U.B.A.R

Well iam sorry but that's what its in the cupboard under the sink for! And i have
used asg silicone spray on my pistols for a year and a half and been to at least
five skirmishes with them and their perfect so how about you stop ranting like a F***ing know it all and stop miss-leading people and get YOUR facts strait!!!!!!!!
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Witcher

Did you question Dex's facts?:eek:

F.U.B.A.R

F.U.B.A.R wrote: »

I have
used asg silicone spray on my pistols for a year and a half and been to at least
five skirmishes with them and their perfect!!!!

I'l question what I damn well please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

swiftblade

F.U.B.A.R wrote: »

Well iam sorry but that's what its in the cupboard under the sink for! And i have
used asg silicone spray on my pistols for a year and a half and been to at least
five skirmishes with them and their perfect so how about you stop ranting like a F***ing know it all and stop miss-leading people and get YOUR facts strait!!!!!!!!
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

He's not misleading anyone. WD40 dosen't "eat through rust" , it stops rust occuring by displacing the water. Your rubber might dry out over time but that about it.

Obviously don't use it.

Inari

How's about we discuss things and debate to arrive at clearer understandings, instead of shouting the other down?

I have seen maintenance discussion get out of hand many times, because people take it personally when someone disagrees with their methods. Some things work for some people, however that does NOT make it optimal. There are certain things that work best, and that cannot really be denied.

My field is Personal Training, and I know that the best warm ups are constituted of 10 minutes (minimum) on general purpose warm up, and then 10 minutes (also minimum) of a specific warm up i.e. tailored to your training session. Does that mean it is the only warm up, and that everyone else is wrong? No. It means it's optimal, so for best results you should use it. But of course, you don't have to, and it is entirely your choice. And like maintenance discussions, if you suggest the optimal, people tend to not like it.

J.D.R

The reason airsoters use 100% silicone spray is that if it's 100%, it will not damage the hop up rubber.

The reason people do not like other lubricants is that they eat away at rubber. WD40 and other CFC containing sprays may be grand to use on the gearbox and other internal parts of the AEG, but they WILL damage the hop up rubber.

The silicone spray the OP has pointed out, I will never use on my AEG because it is not 100% silicone ad contains chemicals which will damage the hop up, or at least the mad bull blue that I use

NakedDex

F.U.B.A.R wrote: »

Well iam sorry but that's what its in the cupboard under the sink for! And i have
used asg silicone spray on my pistols for a year and a half and been to at least
five skirmishes with them and their perfect so how about you stop ranting like a F***ing know it all and stop miss-leading people and get YOUR facts strait!!!!!!!!
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

I didn't rant. You have yet to see me rant and if you have a sense of brevity, you'll do well avoid inciting said rants. They're thorough, extensive, researched, perfectly punctuated, free from grammatical errors, and contain the correct spellings of all words therein (apply these criteria to your above rant and see how you score).

As for being misleading, see here for a thorough and scientific examination of the effects of supposedly detrimental oils on o-rings typically found in airsoft devices.
Furthermore, WD40 and it's ilk is not for, as you put it, "REMOVING rust" [sic]. It is a corrosion inhibitor and penetrant, operating through displacement of lighter liquids - commonly water - and the coating of those surfaces with a low viscosity lubricant to prevent further exposure to air, thereby producing a temporary barrier to further oxidisation. It is merely the first step to a corrosion prevention/removal routine, or can be used as a quick-release agent for the aid of removal of corroded parts, such as bolts. Chemical removal of rust can only be done via corrosives such as hydrochloric acid. If required, I can demonstrate the difference in reaction between an o-ring/hop rubber in WD40, and one in HCL (40% sol), as well as the reaction of corrosion to the same fluids.
If you're using it to remove rust, you're barking up the wrong tree.


I await your apology.




Addendum:
With regard to your kitchen door; try, instead of the penetrant fluid, a wire brush and zinc paint. Be sure to wear appropriate protection, as zinc paint is quite toxic. Hinges, however, are best replaced if corrosion has set in already.