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tyre fused to disk, cannot remove

  • 10-07-2011 11:10am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 375 ✭✭


    had a puncture in one of my front wheel.
    when i took off the nuts the tyre was fused to the disk and wouldn't come off.
    i seen a guy take a hammer to the back of the wheel to release this before but where do you hit the wheel, on the rubber tyre, or the back of the alloy(with timber)?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,191 ✭✭✭_Conrad_


    I assume you mean the wheel is stuck rather than the tyre....


    Take a spare wheel and hit the stuck wheel with it, either at the top or at the bottom of the wheel ( hit it with the rubber not the wheel part) it may shock it loose. make sure the car is secure on the jack though and nobody's under the car.


    You could use a small block of wood to hold against the wheel at the back, at the edge of the wheel that's near the ground with the wood over the part where the rim and tyre meet, give it a whack and again that could shock it off. It WILL come off with persuasion


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 227 ✭✭Paddysnapper


    Sure fire resolution ....Put the bolts back in loose, drop the car off the jack, now drive the car backwards and then forwards, slowly...Usually does the trick!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 76 ✭✭roberto_98


    hammer and a bit of timber to protect the wheel. Hit it a few good shots from the back and it should pop off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    make sure the car is well supported brfore you start going mad with a hammer! dont leave it jacked up on only a flimsy jack that comes with the car. use axel stands or a big block of wood or something.

    if you can get your hand in at the back of the wheel it might be worth trying spraying some wd40 between the rim and the hub.

    when you do get it off put a smear of copper grease on the hub to prevent it happening again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,438 ✭✭✭✭El Guapo!


    Sure fire resolution ....Put the bolts back in loose, drop the car off the jack, now drive the car backwards and then forwards, slowly...Usually does the trick!

    Don't do this.


    As was said, a few wallops of a hammer or a few kicks will do the job, and put on some copper grease afterwards.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I have seen wheels corroded on so badly that beating them with an 8lb sledge wouldn't move them.
    What you can do is go to a nice empty carpark. Back all the nuts off 2 turns and drive in a circle at low speed 5kph or so.
    The weight of the car should break the weld between the wheel and hub.
    Once you hear/feel the wheel come loose stop/chock and jack as normal.
    If you can take the wheel off and replace it then once the puncture is fixed get a wirebrush and clean the rust off the drum/hub.
    Pay attention to the area where the wheel hub sits into the wheel centre.
    You don't need to bring it back to shiny metal, just remove the built up rust.
    Worth checking all the others as well, because if one is like that the others probably are the same.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    CJ, do you know that by doing what you've suggested, the chances of shearing all the bolts on the hub are VERY high?!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Tea drinker


    CJ, do you know that by doing what you've suggested, the chances of shearing all the bolts on the hub are VERY high?!
    the cars I have done this on had a lip on the hub which carried the weight of the wheel / chassis. The bolts weren't carying the weight.
    They would carry the lateral forces while cornering.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    What ever happened to giving it a good oul boot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    the cars I have done this on had a lip on the hub which carried the weight of the wheel / chassis. The bolts weren't carying the weight.
    They would carry the lateral forces while cornering.

    The only things holding a wheel onto a hub are the bolts and nuts for god sake.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I didn't say undo them 10mm and drive like Ayrton Senna.:D
    I said back them out 2 turns and drive slowly in a circle .
    Once you feel it give then stop and jack.
    If you can shear all your wheel studs doing it the way I have suggested then your wheel nuts/studs aren't made of the correct material.
    Wheel nut/studs are commonly 1.5 pitch thread, two turns is 3mm
    That is enough to allow the wheel to come loose but not exert any huge leverage force on the stud.
    What are the options here?

    1: Chock and jack and try and batter the wheel off by hitting the tyre or rim?
    Thats not that safe given the forces involved and the possibility of the car slipping off the jack or stand while you are kicking the bejusus out of the wheel.

    2: Take it to a Garage and pay them to do the same thing as above?

    3: Do as I suggested in a safe place.
    If the OP does this and the studs all shear then they would have been a hairs breadth from disaster anyway with studs that weak it would be only a matter of time before cornering force at motorway speeds broke the studs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Tea drinker


    The only things holding a wheel onto a hub are the bolts and nuts for god sake.
    Thanks for the information captain obvious - I never knew how wheels stayed on cars, even after studying mechanical engineering and working in design and testing for years after it. But I digress - that doesn't disagree with what I wrote - the weight was being carried by the lip.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,705 ✭✭✭✭Tigger


    some alloys need aluminium grease not copper grease google galvamnetric metals


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