Slurry Tank ?

knotta clue

Has anyone information on slurry tanks. i am thinking of buying a small slurry tanker 900/1000/1100. dont have much to spend around € 1500. What can I expect to get. ? What should I be looking for like abbey, Ruscon etc. Any tips to watch out for. Will be behind a Ford 6610. Thanks

blue5000

Look out for

• rusty tank
• cracks, welds on drawbar
• check the pump is ok, its not expensive to change the vanes
• hyd leaks on the valve ram, hoses

You never know you might get 1300 gallon tank in this price range.

G.U.R

try and get one with half decent set of tyre's too.

A look inside the tank to check for corosion would be good if possible. Neighbour bought a tank that he knew wasn't over worked but once he used it piece if rust used to block the spout. I dont know what you'd get for that money but get galvinised if you can.

knotta clue

Thanks for the info Blue5000

knotta clue

Thanks Again G.U.R.

polod

might be a bit off topic here ...but how do you change the vanes ? how often do they have to be changed ? ive a 8000 litre a min mec pump if that makes sence

blue5000

Open the 4 bolts that hold the pump to the drawbar, twist it 90 degree so its still sitting on the drawbar, put a bolt back in so the whole lot won't fall off the drawbar. You might have to take off the suction pipe first, depends on the setup.

Open off the oiler hoses, open the ring of bolts at the back of the pump and pull off the cover, be gentle with it, it is cast iron and you don't want to break it. In fact park the tank in a field, not on a concrete yard.

When you get the back off, leave the internal rotor where it is. You can slide out the vanes. If you can't get them out use a piece of hi-tensile fencing wire with a hook on the end. You would only need to do this if a vane is broken in the slot.

Putting it back together

Put the new vanes in, can't remember if one side is rounded, if it is put the rounded edge next to the outer housing. I put new gaskets on the cover, it is important to use enough of these, last time I used 3 on mine, hold them on to the cover with a smear of grease. Check and clean the oil pump in the middle of the back plate before re-assembly.

I use a piece of CLEAN baler twine around the rotor to hold it up in position while getting the back plate into position. It can be done on your own, but a second pair of hands is a big help at this point. When you get a couple of bolts halfway in take the baler twine off. Tighten the bolts opposite each other, what I mean is don't go round in a ring one at a time.

When the bolts are all tight spin the pto stub with your hand, it shouldn't be tight, if it is you need another gasket. Open it up and try again.

It's a while since I did one so if I forgot anything or if anybody has any tips feel free to add, I don't get insulted easily:D

I think there are two types of vanes, one I think is more hard wearing, ask when you are buying which they recommend

polod

blue5000 wrote: »

Open the 4 bolts that hold the pump to the drawbar, twist it 90 degree so its still sitting on the drawbar, put a bolt back in so the whole lot won't fall off the drawbar. You might have to take off the suction pipe first, depends on the setup.

Open off the oiler hoses, open the ring of bolts at the back of the pump and pull off the cover, be gentle with it, it is cast iron and you don't want to break it. In fact park the tank in a field, not on a concrete yard.

When you get the back off, leave the internal rotor where it is. You can slide out the vanes. If you can't get them out use a piece of hi-tensile fencing wire with a hook on the end. You would only need to do this if a vane is broken in the slot.

Putting it back together

Put the new vanes in, can't remember if one side is rounded, if it is put the rounded edge next to the outer housing. I put new gaskets on the cover, it is important to use enough of these, last time I used 3 on mine, hold them on to the cover with a smear of grease. Check and clean the oil pump in the middle of the back plate before re-assembly.

I use a piece of CLEAN baler twine around the rotor to hold it up in position while getting the back plate into position. It can be done on your own, but a second pair of hands is a big help at this point. When you get a couple of bolts halfway in take the baler twine off. Tighten the bolts opposite each other, what I mean is don't go round in a ring one at a time.

When the bolts are all tight spin the pto stub with your hand, it shouldn't be tight, if it is you need another gasket. Open it up and try again.

It's a while since I did one so if I forgot anything or if anybody has any tips feel free to add, I don't get insulted easily:D

I think there are two types of vanes, one I think is more hard wearing, ask when you are buying which they recommend

cheers lad ......that might come in handy how do ya know when they are gone doe ? does the pump just stop lifting the slurry ?

20silkcut

Just wondering what size tank would suit a two wheel drive zetor crystal 80 hp????

Flat enough land.

Budget 4k approx.

grumpyfarmer

20silkcut wrote: »

Just wondering what size tank would suit a two wheel drive zetor crystal 80 hp????

Flat enough land.

Budget 4k approx.

Pulled a 1150 gl hispec for years with a 60 hp 2 wd deutz without much issues. it would push you around down hill full alright but have only one real hill on the farm and would only ever be going up it full and down empty...