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1980 Triumph TR7

  • 01-07-2011 12:14pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭


    Anything to watch out for apart from rust and electrics?

    Looking at importing a pretty clean one.

    I know I'll have to have an NCT done on it. Anything specific I need to watch for that?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 128 ✭✭Ballykine43


    Have a look here http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/tr7info/buyguide.asp.
    There is a lot to look out for but don't be put off. Its the same for most classics. goo luck


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭johnos1984


    Well I learned it is a Canley built DHC :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 75 ✭✭StiophanM


    I would talk to members of TCOC before you do anything. I bought my TR6 without advice and boy have I paid for it since. If you are Terenure come by the stand and have a chat.....
    :eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭johnos1984


    StiophanM wrote: »
    I would talk to members of TCOC before you do anything. I bought my TR6 without advice and boy have I paid for it since. If you are Terenure come by the stand and have a chat.....
    :eek:
    Just signed up there and waiting to be approved.

    If I told you everything you would be having me submitted for a mental stability test.....

    I was hoping to be at Terenure but I've sold a car and the guy insists on picking it up tomorrow at 3 so not sure if I can make it. Third year in a row I've missed it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭johnos1984


    Sadly TCOC require payment before I can join the forum.

    Mind you I'd love to join to find out who owns the minty red TR6 near me. It was out and about yesterday


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 279 ✭✭Bumpstop


    The worst part of a TR7 is rust rust and rust. I have mine seven years it is kept indoors and continues to rust unabated. If you can generally see any rust on the outside run away, they tend to rust from the inside out. Bring a magnet.

    The door bottoms underneath where you wouldn't look is one good hiding place. The front turrets, and where the rear trailing arms meet the body, need to be very good as these are structural.

    Check the front chassis legs where the subframe bolts on, if the car was crashed these will be damaged or show repair signs.

    Mechanicaly they are very simple, make sure it has the 5 speed box not an early 4 speed. They are pretty slow but there are a lot of performance parts available. I have to say mine has given no mechanical trouble and I drive the nuts off it.

    Don't mind if the gear change is a bit hard at first, most people use a heavy gearbox oil, which eases up with heat.

    I don't think you said if you want a soft top, the convertibles are fun and look well even with the top up.
    The convertibles leak at the corner of the windscreen, which drops water down on the floor/sill join which rots it out nicely.

    Make sure the fuel tank is near full, as they rot from the inside out especially if the car is left sitting over the winter with an empty tank, and is a bugger to change.

    On a DHC make sure the lines where the rear wings and the deck meet are present, some people fill these in during restoration.
    They allow for movement of the panels and will split any filler put in there.

    Other than that, great fun on a wet roundabout. If I think of anything else I will add it.

    http://www.andys-tr7.co.uk/34740/index.html shows the level of achievable rust.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭shaunandelly


    Go for a TR8 ! Now yer talkin'


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 279 ✭✭Bumpstop


    TR8 :):):):):):):)
    Absolute hoot in the wet, soundtrack made in heaven.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 179 ✭✭TRNIALL


    johnos1984 wrote: »
    Sadly TCOC require payment before I can join the forum.

    Mind you I'd love to join to find out who owns the minty red TR6 near me. It was out and about yesterday

    Where you live,might be able to tell you:cool:i have inside information:D.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 75 ✭✭StiophanM


    Go for a TR8 ! Now yer talkin'

    This TR7 conversion to TR8 by Grinnall (the one to have) is up for sale in the North. (not mine mods). I Don't have the detail but you could try the Northern Ireland Triumph Owners Club as he was on their stand at Kilbroney. It is 3.5 with the Holley 4-barrel and all that. Maybe TRNIALL knows what this one is like.

    P10002991.jpg

    P10003001.jpg

    :confused:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭johnos1984


    TRNIALL wrote: »
    Where you live,might be able to tell you:cool:i have inside information:D.
    Please do I was drooling every time it went past the house yesterday.

    I might look in to that northern one but I think it will be more money than I intended spending.

    This is the car I looked at, click the red TR7 for some more pictures

    http://www.rycarsales.co.uk/catalogue.htm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 75 ✭✭StiophanM


    johnos1984 wrote: »

    I might look in to that northern one but I think it will be more money than I intended spending.

    Yes double or thereabouts of the red one

    :cool:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭johnos1984


    StiophanM wrote: »
    Yes double or thereabouts of the red one

    :cool:

    I was thinking that :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭shaunandelly




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 53 ✭✭mmarks


    I had a TR7 (1979 FHC) for quite a while, only sold it the year before last.
    TR7s are very very cheap so buy the best you can. Mine was completely restored and beautiful but didn't cost much more than a grotty one.
    They are good cars, watch for rust and dodgy electrics.
    The engines are generally pretty solid but no road racer. Conversions are available to replace with dolly sprint (16v) or Rover v8. To be honest, I found mine plenty fast enough.
    People like Rimmer Bros are great for new parts and there are plenty of specialists for used cars (all in the UK).
    Only real problem I had was water entering the fuel tank due to the filler being on the deck lid. The drainage wasn't up to the job so, one day I went to start it and it just turned over - not firing. Night before I had 1/4 tank of fuel, after the rain I had 1/2 tank!!!
    I had the tank syphoned and refilled. Then worked a treat.
    Points (ignition) are a pain as is the timing as the dizzy bolts are hard to get to. I replaced the points with an electronic system.
    If I hadn't needed the extra 2 seats, I would still own it. I commuted 80 miles a day in it and it really was a dream. At work it was known as The Wasp (due to it being yellow with black sills!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 914 ✭✭✭okistag


    johnos1984 wrote: »
    Sadly TCOC require payment before I can join the forum.

    Mind you I'd love to join to find out who owns the minty red TR6 near me. It was out and about yesterday

    The TCOC is a great source of info, also nearly every Triumph make in the club and most are DIY lads and gals. Regular runs and events which gives a great social side of things. Well worth the 35 euro a year !! which isnt alot for what you get back. I have had 2 TR7's great fun car and real balance between classic and modern driving..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,096 ✭✭✭johnos1984


    It's all wasted on me now!

    I bought a nice MGF as I've always wanted one. I'll have to search out the
    MGOC in Ireland now :D

    On a side note, while test driving the MGF in Greystones I passed a mint navy TR7. Looked well


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