Camper electic hook up extension.

Saruman

These are rather expensive to buy I notice.

Just wondering if I can make one using parts from B&Q and the like? The cables look like they are the same as what is used for gardening or builders.

Is it the same?

Buford T Justice

Pop down to your local electrical wholesalers and ask them for whatever length of 2.5 3 core flex, and a male and female 16A 240V plug. wire them up and bob's yer uncle.

I made my own this way.

Saruman

Nice one thanks. I figured I could just do that.

*Kol*

Dont forget to buy 1 extra male plug to make up an adapter to use if you want to hook up the van at home for some reason. It could be handy if you go to France too as some sites have two pin household style hook ups.

TBH by the time you go off and buy the plugs (around €15 for two) and the cable it will have cost you around the same.

I have this cable. It could be overkill but it is €32 for 10 meters in B & Q.

They have a 25 meter lead in Halfords for €49. http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_222607_langId_-1_categoryId_212564

rockysdad

Saruman wrote: »

These are rather expensive to buy I notice.

Just wondering if I can make one using parts from B&Q and the like? The cables look like they are the same as what is used for gardening or builders.

Is it the same?

The Orange cables are made with a special rubber coated material. That is made for outdoor use.

The 2.5 ordinary flex is made from PVC, which is more suited for indoor use, and will harden and crack over time if used outdoor.

Here is a link on What Type of Electrical Extension Cord
Do I Need for my Caravan http://www.lets-getaway.com/rvelectricalcords.htm


Quite a few on E.Bay you might get a good deal
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1311&_nkw=caravan+hook+up+cable&_sacat=See-All-Categories

And for anyone into 12 volts side of things see here.
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

N.B. I don't want to put a damper on things, but It is always better to stay safe than run the risk of serious injury or death. Electricity given half a chance can and will kill.:eek::eek:

But Most of all stay safe and happy camping
cheers T

Buford T Justice

rockysdad wrote: »

The Orange cables are made with a special rubber coated material. That is made for outdoor use.

The 2.5 ordinary flex is made from PVC, which is more suited for indoor use, and will harden and crack over time if used outdoor.

Here is a link on What Type of Electrical Extension Cord
Do I Need for my Caravan http://www.lets-getaway.com/rvelectricalcords.htm


Quite a few on E.Bay you might get a good deal
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1311&_nkw=caravan+hook+up+cable&_sacat=See-All-Categories

And for anyone into 12 volts side of things see here.
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

N.B. I don't want to put a damper on things, but It is always better to stay safe than run the risk of serious injury or death. Electricity given half a chance can and will kill.:eek::eek:

But Most of all stay safe and happy camping
cheers T

In Fairness, a little bit of common sense goes a long way here. Yeah, standard flex isn't designed for outdoor use, but how many of us are going to have their cable outside all year round? You will get many years out of a standard flex cable with the occasional few weeks a year outside.

Plus, if you see damage etc.. to the cable, then replace it.

paddyp

You won't diy it much less than that at irish prices*. The proper cable is so called 'arctic' grade cable that remains flexible in cold conditions. You couldn't roll up our cheap extension lead in December but unless you plan on camping in the cold like fingers said it doesn't matter much.

*It does depend on your wholesaler, local ones here charge at least twice the price for cable per meter vs per roll when I was in Cork Dwyers were very reasonable. you'd probably make the cable for under €15

Buford T Justice

If you really wanted to be picky about it then you could get the proper flexible cable. Its called HO7RN-F and is rubbery.

tbh, its overkill imo though. We used to fit it on power tools, but that had H&S guff around it because they were tools for hire etc...

munsterabu

Hello Saruman,I agree with the posters here the power cable to the motorhome has to have capability tocarry quite a big load safely(consider all the accesories that you can have on? ). so rather than replacing substandard equipment over time,spoiling a holiday due to lost power, injury etc. for a bit more money and piece of mind get the right gear .standard indoor domestic cable is not as visible on site also. the sockets on a motorhome (blue ones) are IP44 rated which means they are splash proof when coupled with correct rated cable (insulation is thicker)
stadard cable outside in irish weather wont work out.
i bought Artic cable and plugs seperate not much difference in price at the end. ..

Great freindly site with helpfull advice........

enjoy the rest of the season..

paddyp

Fingers McGee wrote: »

If you really wanted to be picky about it then you could get the proper flexible cable. Its called HO7RN-F and is rubbery.

tbh, its overkill imo though. We used to fit it on power tools, but that had H&S guff around it because they were tools for hire etc...

Its great stuff still no match for a grinder disk though bet you changed a few of those :-p Never seen it on a whole extension lead though tis fierce tick boss.

Buford T Justice

munsterabu wrote: »

Hello Saruman,I agree with the posters here the power cable to the motorhome has to have capability tocarry quite a big load safely(consider all the accesories that you can have on? ). so rather than replacing substandard equipment over time,spoiling a holiday due to lost power, injury etc. for a bit more money and piece of mind get the right gear .standard indoor domestic cable is not as visible on site also. the sockets on a motorhome (blue ones) are IP44 rated which means they are splash proof when coupled with correct rated cable (insulation is thicker)
stadard cable outside in irish weather wont work out.
i bought Artic cable and plugs seperate not much difference in price at the end. ..

Great freindly site with helpfull advice........

enjoy the rest of the season..

The blue plugs are rated at 16 amps so the lhad drawn wouldn't be massive. Imo you'll just as easily see white cable on grass as any other colour.

10m of extension cable fitted with a 13amp plug and socket goes pretty cheap by the reel in an Everything €2 store or the like. You'll find 16amp plugs and sockets for about €5 in the right co-op store or wholesaler. Home assembly required.

studiorat

A 16 amp plug is rated for about 3500 watts, enough to fry you and set your camper on fire, with extra to spare.

It doesn't draw load, it draws current. Use orange cable and proper plugs.

Buford T Justice

studiorat wrote: »

A 16 amp plug is rated for about 3500 watts, enough to fry you and set your camper on fire, with extra to spare.

It doesn't draw load, it draws current. Use orange cable and proper plugs.

It draws current over a voltage and consumes watts, call it what you like, its the same thing. The 'load' or 'current' on the cable would increase as the demand for power increases.
Its actually 3840 watts. Unless you intend boiling an electric kettle in the van, I wouldn't be worried about it.

Anyway, the 'current' that the cable carries is in not related to the injuries that can be caused by the electricity. In the campsite itself, each supply will be protected by an RCD or an RCBO, not to mention likewise safety instruments in the van itself

Using 2.5 orange cable and using regular flex with the same gauge is the same. Both are rated the same and have the same current carrying capacity.

Fair enough if someone runs over it with a lawnmower, then both equally are as dangerous as each other.

Like i said, for the amount of time it'll be outside in the elements, ordinary flex will be fine, along with a modicome of common sense.

munsterabu

Fingers McGee wrote: »

It draws current over a voltage and consumes watts, call it what you like, its the same thing. The 'load' or 'current' on the cable would increase as the demand for power increases.
Its actually 3840 watts. Unless you intend boiling an electric kettle in the van, I wouldn't be worried about it.

Anyway, the 'current' that the cable carries is in not related to the injuries that can be caused by the electricity. In the campsite itself, each supply will be protected by an RCD or an RCBO, not to mention likewise safety instruments in the van itself

Using 2.5 orange cable and using regular flex with the same gauge is the same. Both are rated the same and have the same current carrying capacity.

Fair enough if someone runs over it with a lawnmower, then both equally are as dangerous as each other.

Like i said, for the amount of time it'll be outside in the elements, ordinary flex will be fine, along with a modicome of common sense.

HEY RELAX, PEOPLE ARE ONLY OFFERING ADVICE TO ORIGONAL POSTER.!!!

niloc1951

For the few quid that's in it get the proper cable.
It will inevitably cross the roadway on a campsite at some time and get rolled over many times, the proper stuff is designed to tolerate such abuse ordinery domestic stuff isn't.

On the subject of relying on the campsite equipment to protect you and yours, you should see some of the downright dangerous installations I've come across, no earth, crossed positive & negative are two of the most common.

I use one of these every time I hook up.

The plug and socket amp rating is more of a convention really...a 13amp plug has enough copper to deal with 16amps. The thinkness of the cores of the cable is the weakest link in the chain. Usually if you ensure you uncoil your leads you'll be fine for camper purposes. If in doubt feel your flex for heat.

Saruman

In the end I just picked up the haldords one on the way to Achill island this weekend.

plonker

is the blue plug that you use for the electric hook up on camping sites the same as the yellow 110volt plugs on power tools?

Only if you cut off the guide ridge

You can also get them to connect if you marry the guide ridge on the 110v plug to the socket guide on the 16amp socket then rotate the 110v plug in the socket until the pins line up and push connect.
They're the same thing really the only reason for discrepancy is to prevent people plugging a 110v appliance into a 230v supply. Probably thicker copper cores in the 110v cable to handle a lower voltage...more than you need for mains.

mervifwdc

You would not believe some of the scary places I have seen people plugging into in South America. The best thing you can have is some common sense.

niloc1951

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Only if you cut off the guide ridge

You can also get them to connect if you marry the guide ridge on the 110v plug to the socket guide on the 16amp socket then rotate the 110v plug in the socket until the pins line up and push connect.
They're the same thing really the only reason for discrepancy is to prevent people plugging a 110v appliance into a 230v supply. Probably thicker copper cores in the 110v cable to handle a lower voltage...more than you need for mains.

They are different colours for a reason, I wouldn't go messing about with a yellow one as it could lead to something going wrong in the future.

For the sake of a the price of a pint get the correct one.

mervifwdc

mervifwdc wrote: »

You would not believe some of the scary places I have seen people plugging into in South America. The best thing you can have is some common sense.

I would, I've seen it myself , it's amazing how savvy a population gets when there's no public liability.

I had a teacher long time ago used to say "The problem with common sense is; it isn't very common."

niloc1951 wrote: »

They are different colours for a reason, I wouldn't go messing about with a yellow one as it could lead to something going wrong in the future.

For the sake of a the price of a pint get the correct one.

Blue lecky tape, or paint or a decent label would be even cheaper than a pint :pac:

plonker

I was looking at them today in the diy,not very expensive,they also had an adaptor that a normal 3 pin plugs into,could you use that on a campsite along with an extension lead i have thats got an rcd on it

Is this the adapter you are describing?


If yes, it's the wrong way round as a camper is really just a bigger one when you think about it, provided there is pre-wired 13a sockets (standard household sockets) in the vehicle.
They have their uses but rarely for camper purposes.

However if your camper is not pre-wired and does not have a hook up point and you are not concerned about waterproofing an outdoor electrical connection then yes the set-up you describe will work, although a campsite may ask you to remove it promptly.
Or if you can plug it into a sheltered IP rated hook up point then it will also work.


16amp (blue) plugs and sockets range from €4 to €15 each, depending on where you buy them, so I recommend an electrical wholesaler not a DIY store.
3 core 1.5mm, artic flex cable is about €1 a meter again depending on where you purchase.

What I'm guessing you are looking for is one 13a plug (standard household plug) on 1metre of flex to 16amp socket, and a 16a plug on 15meter flex to a 16a socket. This will cover you for most scenarios in Ireland & UK. So you can link the two or not as needs be.




The RCD is your call. I'd put an RCD on the main live inside the van directly after the van hook up point, a coach build should already have one. The 13amp plug is fused anyways. The hook-up point should have an RCD of it's own too if it was professionally installed.

I use a 10amp RCD on the van so that it trips before the source and can be reset locally in a known place without any traipsing. The logic of that is; my supply is either 10a/13a/16a or 20a, the RCD in the van being lower rated and nearest the fault should trip before the hook-up.

If your camper isn't pre-wired the first adapter I posted can be used inside the camper at the end of the line to provide power.