trailed or side mounted mower??

rs8

as above, think of buying a 8foot mower and dont really no which would be the best??

your 2 cents please, thanks

vanderbadger

rs8 wrote: »

as above, think of buying a 8foot mower and dont really no which would be the best??

your 2 cents please, thanks

have an 8ft mounted and its grand but as for which is best then trailed hands down..

pajero12

Trailed for sure, Then there's no prickin about with toplinks every time you go mowing!
Cuts alot cleaner and tighter, Isnt affected by lieing grass!

poor farmer

Trailed every time ,those mounted yokes leave impossible corners
Also try and get one at least 9 foot ,tractors and balers etc. have all gotten bigger and wider so you need more space between swathes

Pacoa

A trailed lely splendimo 10ft would be my choice but would you have the acreage to justify it?

pajero12

poor farmer wrote: »

Trailed every time ,those mounted yokes leave impossible corners
Also try and get one at least 9 foot ,tractors and balers etc. have all gotten bigger and wider so you need more space between swathes

Its the width of the swath that matters, not the width between them

13spanner

Trailed hands down. I'd reccomend a second hand john deere 1350. 8ft mower (perfect for smaller gates) and if you get a clean second hand one it'll last you forever. We bought a 1992 one in 1998 and it's like new except for the paint and panels.
Best of luck with whatever you buy!

dryan

Are the trailed easier to run than the side mounted?
If so, for example, how many less HP would be required to run an 8ft trailed Vs 8ft side mounted?

also, if using trailed mower for topping, can u in anyway disconnect the conditioner or does it always have to ne engaged?

vanderbadger

dryan wrote: »

Are the trailed easier to run than the side mounted?
If so, for example, how many less HP would be required to run an 8ft trailed Vs 8ft side mounted?

also, if using trailed mower for topping, can u in anyway disconnect the conditioner or does it always have to ne engaged?

have never used a trailed but i dont think it so much the horse power requirement as you need a fairly substantial tractor to hold the mounted one, they are very heavy off the side of the tractor so you need a good big tractor to ahve any comfort with them, you cant disengage my conditioner unless you took off hte belts which turn it so not really an option

Swinefluproof

Trailed mower will follow the ground much better than a mounted one as the tractor going up and down over rough ground won't effect it as much as the mounted one.
On the JD 1360 (Which I'm guessing is similar to the 1350/55 8 ft version) disconnecting the conditioner literally takes seconds. Just have to lever back the spring loaded tensioner and slip off the belt. It cuts down the power requirement massively, especially if cutting extremely heavy rushes.
Will pay alot more for a trailed mower than a mounted one though if that's an issue

warfie35

rs8 wrote: »

as above, think of buying a 8foot mower and dont really no which would be the best??

your 2 cents please, thanks

Trailed all the way,my personal choice would be kuhn,john deere mowers have kuhn beds,if buying new might be better off sourcing in uk.

KatyMac

Pity I didnt see this thread before. I have a side mower and it breaks my heart. Trying to get into corners, get it set up in the field etc, etc.

jeff greene

The trick with mowing corners is to take a nice easy turn first time round, you can go back and cut them out later.

Trailed is best but if you have a big tractor, modern mounted ones with proper suspension are good too

stanflt

i have a 302fc kuhn trailed and a lely splendimo classic240 side mounted-only use the lely for topping as it would be impossible to pick up after it-jf900:)

jeff greene

stanflt wrote: »

i have a 302fc kuhn trailed and a lely splendimo classic240 side mounted-only use the lely for topping as it would be impossible to pick up after it-jf900:)

302fc or 1365/530 are on the list for next year.

Did you buy new, any issues, much power needed?

stanflt

jeff greene wrote: »

302fc or 1365/530 are on the list for next year.

Did you buy new, any issues, much power needed?

bought the kuhn new in 2001-its a company machine-owned by myself, an uncle and 2cousins- most of our machinery is pooled except slurry tanker and topper(lely) no problems pulling it tl90 will just about drive it(slowly) no prob on ts or tm ranges

west boy

i was contracting for a long while and found the trailled mowers very wide and ackward on the road. especially in the evenings when you were meeting cars on a narrow by road. my last mower was a JD1365 which i was driving with a jd66 she had plenty of power at 120 hp for any crop i put the mower into. i was seriously thinking about a mounted mower that jd have now which just folds back behind the tractor like the old drum mowers.

supermajor

jeff greene wrote: »

302fc or 1365/530 are on the list for next year.

Did you buy new, any issues, much power needed?

We considering buying trailer mower this year too. Topper is over 23yrs old.
Thinkin of a S/H JD 1365 but dont know to get the gyro head or if its any advantage?
What would a feelow look out for when buyin one?:)

west boy

stay away from the gyro box as it gives a bit of trouble if they are dogged or they dont like tractors with 40k boxes as all the bouncing damages the seals the oil comes out and they run dry and cease.
The only difference between the drawbar and the 3 point linkage is the drawbar can drag the grass if the swart is heavy and you have a long pin sticking down and the 3 point linkage allows you to lock tighter in the corners or the end of the swart

Swinefluproof

supermajor wrote: »

We considering buying trailer mower this year too. Topper is over 23yrs old.
Thinkin of a S/H JD 1365 but dont know to get the gyro head or if its any advantage?
What would a feelow look out for when buyin one?:)

If buying secondhand steer well clear of anything that has weld on the bed. Other than that they are pretty troublefree. might be wrong on this point but some of the 1365s were fitted with a JD manufactured bed instead of the usual Kuhn one and they tended to give some trouble. Had no experience of this myself but another contractor a few years ago was b***hing to me about his new JD bed mower.
Check that you have all stone guards, skids etc. They are more than "a few euro sure"

supermajor

Thanks for the replies. contractor i work for has the gyro head. Mowed wit it a few times. Handy for tight corners alright. I was thinkin of goin wit the T-bar head to avoid problems west boy was saying. Dis connecting the conditioner is possible on all 1365s?? :eek:

west boy

disconnecting the conditioner is easy to do by releasing the belt going from the garbox up to the conditioner, but in fairness is a waste of time. i just reduce the revs when topping as there is normally very little in font of the blades so no need to run fast. start off just ticking over and build up the revs until you think the field is clean enough.

coolio kidddd

have a kuhn fc 250 same as a 1350 (8ft) good mower, nice tight cut, its on the drawbar but if u buy one on the drawbar allow for the 3 or 4 hundred euro worth you will have to spend on a double-jointed pto shaft its just impossible with out it.

blue5000

How much of difference is there price wise between trailed and mounted mower conditioner buying new?

mythos110

Also look at the wear on the bushings on the conditioner flails. I replaced all the pins and bushings on my 1365 this year. Didn't feel going through a few hundred euros!!!

biggee

is it possible to keep the bed raise a few inches for topping or do you have to cut it bear? I was told by a mower rep that 6 disc mowers and 8 disc mowers were the ones to go for as 7 disc mowers give you an uneven swarth, is this possible true?